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cheap intake alignment tool
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Not a bad idea I will steal that one
But I have also used a small piece of double-sided tape Especially wen the ports are matched to the gasket Joe |
I just glue em to the head with a thin film silicone..still good idea.
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Excellent! Thanks for sharing. Have something to share too, most of you might already know to do this....
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...p?number=25000 Oil galley screen kit. For 15 bucks, great insurance. My partner spent 4K on a quick build during this last season (asphalt, oval, Modified). One of his downleg boosters fell off and got bent up or broken enough by the lifters/pushrods that it made it to his lower end and boom. My brother-in-law was racing dirt modifieds and someone (had to be one of the spectators/lookieloos in the pit area) dumped a couple of drywall screws down his carb, they made it to his lower end also. A 1 hour period, while he was waiting to qualify, he left the car unattended with hood/air cleaner off. I'm going to install these screens, some magnets in oil pan, and maybe fit a screen on the inside lip of my carb. Wonder if there are chip warning systems out there, like the helecopters use in their gearboxes that we can use in out oil pan? Anyone know of these? |
Originally Posted by Tod74
I just glue em to the head with a thin film silicone..still good idea.
what tod said..did it week before last...place a few bolts intake to snug it down..come back the next day take off intake trim the gasket to exact head port...then go from there... $5.00 for tube of Ultra Grey silicone... Brian |
Originally Posted by davebat
Excellent! Thanks for sharing. Have something to share too, most of you might already know to do this....
http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...p?number=25000 Oil galley screen kit. For 15 bucks, great insurance. My partner spent 4K on a quick build during this last season (asphalt, oval, Modified). One of his downleg boosters fell off and got bent up or broken enough by the lifters/pushrods that it made it to his lower end and boom. My brother-in-law was racing dirt modifieds and someone (had to be one of the spectators/lookieloos in the pit area) dumped a couple of drywall screws down his carb, they made it to his lower end also. A 1 hour period, while he was waiting to qualify, he left the car unattended with hood/air cleaner off. I'm going to install these screens, some magnets in oil pan, and maybe fit a screen on the inside lip of my carb. Wonder if there are chip warning systems out there, like the helecopters use in their gearboxes that we can use in out oil pan? Anyone know of these? When you plug the oil vent holes in the middle of the valley you force blowby to come up the end holes under pressure while the oil is trying to return down the same hole just by gravity. gravity looses and all your oil is soon up in the top end and your bearings are out the side of the block. with wet sump engines the rear return holes need to be ground out as large as they can and the center holes in the block taped for 1/4 pipe. install 1.00 long BRASS pipe nipples with loctite. the reason for brass nipples is there thin wall and allow max venturi. use no screens in the return holes. Its not possible for a booster to fall off and get into the valley and then to the lower end. the booster went into a cylinder and caused the damage and probably ended up in the pan after the piston broke. same with the dry wall screws,they can only end up in a cylinder or in the pan if a piston brakes during the process.Bill |
I use spray trim adhesive, it holds great and leaves no residue.
I think of racecars as small children, I never leave them unattended. but if I must, either the hood goes back on or a carb cap on, man a hard lesson learned there, bummer><Cp |
that cool but the pins will get the intake centered the first time.
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You could also use 3/8 allen head set screws if you have them laying around..
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