1055 rons terminator problems HELP please
 

i have a 408 sbc with the 1055 just put it on over the winter and not right since. hard to start. missing half track. and even if i get it to stop missing still hard to start. started out with a 1/2 pump and even tried a 0 pump still nothing rons told me to start out with 90 return and 33 jets . but i have been up and down on both and still cant figure it out. the exhaust temp will not give me a good ready for some reason it is reading like 1500 degrees which is not right even took the terminator off and put a alch carb on it and still 1500 degrees i have tried almost everything please any infomation[/b]

1055
 

Have you tried to talk to James Monroe at killerrons.com?

Re: 1055 rons terminator problems HELP please
 

Is it going WOT fuel on the fuel spool when you push in the fuel shutoff ? Does it still have the start-aid in it ? Whats tha barrel valve leak down and blade gap ? They are simple to tune.

A good starting point is to set the throttle blades at .002, set the leak down between 24%and 28%. With a 0-1/2 pump it should run with .085/.105 pill.
I suspect the barrel valve is set to way too much leakdown and at WOT you're going over center with that high of exhaust temp. It should run 1250/1350 at WOT under load.
One thing you didn't say are you running gas or alcohol? If you're running gas set the leakdown at 1/2 of what you would set it with alcohol.
I run both rons stuff and Hilborn, but all on alcohol. But i built a B/BLk that going to run gas with a hilborn stacks injection. It has been so long since i've ran gas i had to call Hilborn to find out what to set the leakdown to.
On the starting problem, turn off the swith and close the fuel shutoff at the same time that way the fuel doesn't drain back down from the injection. on my toilet bowl car it starts like a carb, but it is a little hard to start after it sets a week, but by the time the oil pressure comes up it's ready to start. I normally crank it with the swith off until oil pressure is up then flip the swith.
JMO

Zip.

i am running alcohol . the leakdown is 28% and i even changed the barrel valve maybe thinking it was bad. i do have a starting aid on it. but even after the car is warmed up its hard to start. and yes i have talked to james at killer rons. he said to start at 90 return pill and 33 jets but no luck

i would even pay someone to come tune it or fix it if there is anyone around this area

Rons?
 

Well That DEPENDS,.........??
Where are you Located?
I would start with BASIC plumbing,and go from there,........
I have NEVER had a System that I could NOT Fix!

Later
G 8)

where i race is in radford, virginia

Re: Rons?
 

X2, most of them are as easy to tune as falling off a log. Couple of things to look at, is the pump mounted low?(not higher than the tank) Have you syncronized the butterflys so that all close tight? Are the throttle shafts tight in the bores? Are yu running atleast a #8 line to the pump? and what size fuel filter are you running, it could be starving for fuel on top end.

Just a few guesses.

Zip.

everything just came back from rons everything checked out okay. i have 12 line i have a filter on it but i took it off cuz i thought it was straving at top end yes they are suppose to be easy to tune i have a guy that has this setup on his rail and he cant figure it out either

WoW, that sounds unreal, but i realize it's not. I assume you have a front mounted fuel cell. It's also possible that you have an intake manifold leak which would cause choas. I personally don't like rons pumps, because he will never give you the flow rate, he only says it's within specs. I only use DSR,Enderle, or Hilborn pumps. I ran across this problem with a 514 Ford motor where it was doing the same thing that you seem to have a problem with. His is a 4.100 toilet bowl. I sold him a DSR -1 pump that i had as a spare and the car went from 5.78@118 too 5.61@123. In fact it broke everything on the car, rearend housing, trans, and after about 10 runs it blew the main webs off the stock block (i posted about it on RJ called Ford tuff or not) I,m not saying that you have a problem with the Ron's pump, but out of the 5 or 6 systems i worked with in the last 2 yrs. only one is still running the Ron's pump. I do have a friend a couple miles from me that runs a Ron's "0" pump on a 421" motor on alcohol (55 shoebox Chevy) that runs low 5.60's @2650 lbs and is very consistent.
Wish i was closer too you because i like B,block chevy "G" would love to tackle the problem that you are having. I've been running blown gas,blown alcohol, stacks injection, and for the last 10 yrs toilet bowls and i've never met the system i couldn't make run,
I'm hoping that your problem is a simple easy fix, but not being there it's just the things i can suggest that might find to problem.
See if you can borrow an Enderle or Hilborn pump and drive and try it. Ron's has that stupid drive lug on the pump so you would need the different drive system.

All just suggestions, hope they help.

Zip.

Rons
 

Zip,
I use a Rons (BILLET PUMP) its GREAT!I have 5,and 7 gallon gearsets,and it will pump in either Direction.I used a Enderle Belt drive last season,but I will drive it off the Jesel Belt this yr.
Wish He was closer,I'd swing by and pick you up JOHN,and we could Fix him up with the Issue!
I wish I knew someome In the area to help?

JUST Remember,.........?Check and Start with the BASICS!
Also a GOOD helper for you would be the Manuel that Rons sells,it has all TROUBLE Shooting,Installation Instuctions and settings.
I have 1 here that I could send you,but would like to have it back.
Heres my Info if you want to use it?
[email protected]
Later
G 8)
231 690 5075

i am running a enderle pump i have two pumps both are enderle one of them is 0 and the other is 0 1/2 . both have been checked and are good .. i am really lost i wish i knew someone that was really good in the area or could haul it to another close track

and the fuel cell is in the front and is higher than the pump i am really lost

Terminator
 

Quick ?
Have you been threw that Valve-Train?,Lash,Springs,Leak-Down the Cylinders,ETC,.............?

Later
G 8)

Good choice on the pump the 0-1/2 Enderle should pump 4.5/5.0 GPM@4000 RPM which is enough. I hope you're not running a loop line on the return (they suck and cause disturbance in the pickup flow)About the hard starting, if you turn off the igitation and close the fuel shutoff at the same time the fuel won't bleed back down and it should start easier. My Malibu with the 4.1 toilet bowl starts like a carb after it's been first started. I do have to crank it until the oil pressure is up and then flip the switch on when first started, but my pump is mounted too high. I don't have a gas primer on mine for starting. Just hang in there man we're going to get this problem solved even with distance and emails/pm's. You have a good system and you will like it once it starts acting right. Sorry i don't know anyone in VA. that running injection, but i did tune a person in WV. with a toilet bowl last yr and he loves it now (lot's of emails/pm's and phone calls from the track)

Zip.

Zip.

Good starting point, what is your starting routine each time ? Your blade gap should be set from 8-11 thousands, where is yours ? Does the car lay over after it leaves and then pick up and go ?

Next questions on the miss you have. What spark plugs, plug gap, timing, which coil and msd box ?

blades are set from rons at 10 thousands . i shut the bottom off and pull the cable at the same time. what are you talking about when you say running a loop line. my return line comes out and comes straight to the top of the tank. the plugs are ngk 10 . the distributor is msd the coil is msd everything is firing right no missing or acting up just cant really tune it cuz the egt is saying its 1500 after a pass on the tale tell . and its hard to start. like this thing is done pissed me off that i am thinking about sellin the whole car. i have been trying to get it right since the being of march i have done lost out of points for the season . i dont know if the egt is right or just throwing a false reading cause at 1500 i think the headers would be cherry red and burn some stuff up

1055
 

In your first post, you said it missed at half track. You said it was hard to start. You said it was 1500 on EGT with alcohol carb too.

Was it hard to start with the carb too? Did it miss at half track with the carb too?

Rather than sell the car, I would just put a gas carb on it and use a bypass regulator. Maybe replace the pump with a electric one and use a dead head regulator.

Let someone else figure the injection out that wants to.

A loop line is a product that Enderle makes where the return line is run back into the pickup on the pump, in my opinion it interfers with the flow, but since you're back to the tank with the return line it's irrelavent.
I think the plugs are way too cold you should be running NGK 8's or maybe even 7's. You may be burning unburned fuel in the headers which would account for the high EGT. also the very cold plugs could contibute the the hard starting. 10's are more like for Nitro. Don't give up on the setup yet, the problem can be soluved.

Zip.

when i put the carb on it , it was still 1500 degrees and it was much easier to start on the carb.

1055
 

If the carb and the injection both show high maximum EGT then:

Both are lean at WOT.

Your EGT has a problem.

Your timing is not correct.

Your pump is bad if using same one for both carb and injection.

Or a combination.


What is your idle EGT on the carb and injection? 450 ? If it is way high at idle, your EGT could be wrong.

Does it have any of the same other problems with the carb?

yes this is what i am trying to figure out why is my egt high . the egt box and probe are both brand new i even put it on a dragster to double check and the egt is good on the dragster . i have two different pumps they both came back from rons. i am thinking the post about the spark plugs could be a possibility .. the flame is coming out and catching the probe and giving it a false ready i will have to get different plugs and try on friday

Your plugs are not the right ones. Autolite 3910-3911 is a good choice, index them and be done.

I agree with David 100%, i run both NGK's and Autolites, although a different # on the Autolites, you do have to index them because of the longer electrode. I have to index the Autolites with a 14 to 1 piston in my 377" motor.The Autolites are in the same heat range as the NGK #8's

Zip.

alky is a no brainer larger pill leaner car smaller pill richer car your pump is right don't change it also i would use the 3910 autolite set the gap a little tight around 32 thou to 36 also set your timing by ear take up till it pings then back up till it's crisp then on alky take a reading at that point and take an extra 2/4 degrees out, your jets might be lean try a 34 or a 36 i have had to 383 strokers both built the same 14.1 one liked 34 jet the other liked 36 also make sure to check your WOT to make sure your not over turing the spool valve also food for thought check you nozzel placement in your intake some guys use the NOS buttons insted of making the nozzel 90 degrees to the intake runner good luck joe g 8)