Gutted the interior
 

Started the interior teardown today. Plulled the cluster and dash. Someone had already butchered the cluster before, 2 bent metal tabs screwed into the housing was all that was holding it in place!
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/4/70/24601704-296.jpg
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http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/8/72/24601728-356.jpg
Took the front seats out and then removed the dash, a few rusty screws and it all came out.
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/1/89/24601891-419.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/3/93/24601933-224.jpg
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[/img]

Dash is nice minus the big warp in the top, gonna work on that. It has no cracks or damage so I gotta save it!:)
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/3/10/24602103-204.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/1/14/24602141-092.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/8/16/24602168-080.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/7/19/24602197-596.jpg
So the floorpans have been replaced on both sides, decent job but they never painted the floor. I had some leftover POR, so a good scuff and slap it on!
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/3/24/24602243-224.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/9/28/24602289-683.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/2/32/24602322-839.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/8/33/24602338-089.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/9/41/24602419-441.jpg

http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/7/42/24602427-274.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/7/44/24602447-028.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/2/46/24602462-683.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/2/74/24608742-529.jpg

The cooling fans were wired up to run all the time so a new thermo-switch from Jeg's and a little wiring and now they work properly
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/3/47/24602473-834.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/6/47/24602476-630.jpg

Picked up 3 rolls of Peel & Seal from Lowes today. Start on that next weekend.

Happy New Years guys!:)

Looks good Harbone. I'm sure it will look as good or better than your last few rides, and they were all sweet. 8)

QUICK MARK---DID YOU SEE THOSE WORKBENCH CHAIRS HARBONE HAS IN HIS GARAGE ---MOPAR !!!!!!!

You like those? The white one is actually pretty old, found it in a storage room at a Dodge store I used to work at. I got about 5 of the black ones, intended to build a bar but put in a pool table instead.

I CAN'T SAY TOOOOO MUCH--I HAVE A V8 S10 SITTING IN MY GARAGE RIGHT NOW :oops: :oops: :roll: :roll:

BUT I DO LIKE THE MOPAR SEATS 8)

Them barstools are stock!
I dont have to worry about the drivetrain, previous owner knows what he was doing in that department. He gave me plenty of receipts and a ton of photos he took while putting the motor together. I already scored a cluster housing with all the tabs intact from a guy. I just have to get the heat gun out and some patience to straighten out the dash warp. The paint and the engine compartment are beautiful so I had to do something with the interior. Thats one thing about living in Illinois, January through March is the best time to work on the warm weather toys :D

Busy week at work and woop ars tired but I did a little work when I got home. Picked up some valve covers this week, GM Performance with holes and baffles so I can hook up a PCV hose. Plus they look good and almost match the car color of the car perfectly. Heres a pic of the valve covers that were on it, TIG welded drag race parts.
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/1/64/24535641-812.jpg

Here is the new ones.
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/1/13/24681131-153.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/9/11/24681119-613.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/3/12/24681123-765.jpg

It looks a whole lot better! Gonna start putting down the sound barrier tomorrow on the floor boards...

Actually DD I used a product called Peel & Seal from Lowes, its identical to Fatmat and about half the price.
http://images.lowes.com/product/conv...59062513lg.jpg
The stuff works great, use a wallpaper roller in the tight spots and it cuts easy with just a razor.
3 rolls knocked out the floorboards, gonna have to go buy 1 more tomorrow to do the doors and behind the back seat.
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/2/95/24691952-691.jpg

http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/5/95/24691955-009.jpg

http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/6/96/24691966-707.jpg

http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/3/97/24691973-056.jpg

http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/0/98/24691980-671.jpg

So then I tore into the cluster, got a good deal on a housing with solid tabs and a nice lens. The temp, amp and fuel gauges are in surprisingly good shape. I will be ordering the oil psi gauge from Gaugemarks here shortly. The circuit board has some minumal delamination but everything still works so a good cleaning, some new screws and polish up the old screws and it looks pretty good!:)

http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/3/98/24691983-312.jpg

http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/6/98/24691986-203.jpg

http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/9/98/24691989-893.jpg

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http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/1/02/24692021-941.jpg

Hope to get the door panels off tomorrow and insulate them. Need to start on the dash warp too hopefully Sunday:D

How thick is that Peel n Seal ?
Is it made to insulate(temperature) or deaden(noise)?
Am really enjoying the 'in progress' shots ! :D :D :D :D :D

The stuff works excellent, some guys on the NastyZ forum turned me onto it. Some people say they use a blow dryer or heat gun to make it more flexible but I never needed to use either, just some pressure and smart cuts. Heres a pic of the product Fatmat compared to Peel & Seal and they are identical.
http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/DSCF3632.jpg

Looks awesome. Alot of work to be done but it looks great. Nice job.
I know what your going thru it's definately alot of work but it's worth it when done.

I like this kind of work though, hate body work, prep and paint. The car has great paint and the engine compartment is just a knock out. That makes me want to be as detailed as possible on the interior so it can match up the rest of the car! :D

Worked on the dash curl about 2 hours this morning. Burnt the heck out of thumbs and forefingers even with gloves on. What a PITA, I got the big curve out of it and the vinyl glued back down on the fiberglass frame. Might heat it up one more time and try to get it don just a little more. Heres the before pics.
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/8/16/24602168-080.jpg

http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/7/19/24602197-596.jpg

Here is what it looks like now.
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/6/94/24792946-516.jpg

http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/2/95/24792952-098.jpg

BIG DIFFERENCE 8) 8)
HEAT PROBABLY RUINED THAT MANICURE--I JUST HATE THAT :cry: :cry:

So how did that POR come of ur skin when you got it on ya! :lol:

I learned my lesson with the POR years ago, I always where gloves now! I have a few spots on my fingers that got there when I was cleaning everything up. It comes off after about 2-3 weeks. :lol:

It comes off after about 2-3 weeks[/quote]


Ur not kiddin! It got me too!

All the builders i know use the pors also and the peel and stick.

There are 4 builders within a 10 mi. rad of where i live, they all use the peel and stick insulation on their builds. I know of 10 builds now in progress, this is the latest build set to be delivered to the costomer on sun in New Orleans, the 1939 took 14 mos. The builder is my best friend Ronnie who owns the 1966 Biscyne drag car which built the eng. in and have posted pics. of. He also has a 68 and a 69 Camero in process. Hard to believe it's not his primary job, he's a state investigator for the Attny Generals office for auto fraud.

Zip.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...39chevy006.jpg

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thats pretty sweet Zip!!

Wish I would have read this yesterday!

It wasn't to bad to get off, but it's hard to get all of it out from around your fingernails.

I'm gonna wear some gloves today! lol

We all live and learn Rabbit! Just most of us learn the hard way!

IT IS VEEEEEERRRRRRY TOUGH ON THE NAILS AND YOUR OPEN CUTS :oops: :oops: :twisted:

I'm pretty dissapointed with the results. I put a good effort into doing it right. I stripped it to bare metal, primed it with self etching primmer sanded that with 1,000 grit and really took my time painting it. I made sure the frame was warm (70*+ all day and even left the big propane heater running for a while after I painted it) Some streaks in it, but that's not the problem.
I can scrape it right off with my fingernail. Some spots are hard as heck and perfect, but for the most part I can just scratch it right off.

I needed something pretty tough to handle getting muddy and dirty and mostly take the abuse of pressure washing it.

I'm gonna strip it and start over.


What really makes me mad is I spilled some on a dusty, oily workbench and you can't get the crap off. :evil:


I put some touch up spray paint on the back part of the frame last year and that stuff is so hard you can't hardly scratch it with a knife.

Harbone. Sorry I hijacked your thread.
BTW car is looking good!

Thats weird Rabbit, that stuff usually adheres to anything????

X2 with Harbone! May have been to smooth with the 1000 grit and it has nothing to grab to... Like harbone said that stuff adheres to about anything. Also keep in mind P.O.R. is what it says (Paint Over Rust) it uses very little prep you want it clean but I think you may be to smooth rabbit!



X2 on the hijackin Harbone sorry!

Du Pont Prep Sol #3919S Cleaning Solvent

Would this be better than acetone? Which is what I used to wipe everything down.

Once I strip it down to bare metal again, should I prime it or just paint it with POR?
If I heat the frame before I paint it would it help make the paint tougher?

I sure wish I had the time to take the truck completely apart and get it powder coated.


Harbone sorry 'bout this. I can make another thread if you want me too.

No worries Rabbit, this is how we all learn. My experience with POR over the years besides its impossible to get off my skin is it works best over bare metal with no primer. If the primer fails then the POR just falls off. I use rubbing alcohol to prep my surface. I have used it on old rusty wheelbarrows and mower decks and it always adheres like superglue. Make sure you are stirring it the whole time you are using the product, it has a tendency to seperate and settle. Also once the can is opened it starts reacting and heat makes it worse. If I have any left overs I transfer it to a different container, like a Mason jar and keep it in my garage fridge per the instructions on the can.

After getting all the staples out of the upper door panels I bought, I installed the new inner window felts. Use some soft clamps and riveted them back on. Worked pretty good! Also pulled the inner window guides off and replaced the worn out felts with the loop side of some velcro. Put some rubber hose on the inner door handle rod to try and de-rattle everything.
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/1/16/24886161-108.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/7/24/24886247-917.jpg

Got my dash braces and inner sill plate covers back from sandblasting. Hung them up and gave a nice coat of paint. You wont see any of them but I didnt have much else to do this weekend.
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/2/11/24886112-477.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/5/18/24886185-416.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/5/23/24886235-874.jpg

So why the paint was drying I started on putting the Peel & Seal on the inner doors. Got the heat gun out this time and it really helped making in stretch and stick to the contours. Turned out great!
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/0/43/24888430-076.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/9/44/24888449-443.jpg
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/7/52/24888527-597.jpg

At a stand still now, waiting on carpet, interior dye, door panel clip kit and some other stuff from Heather and Pete and F-Body Warehouse. Have I said how great they are?!?!:)

What kind of sound deadener
you using?

Chris,

RE; your dash braces , kudos;

When I do any work on a nice car, I always make it a point to do nice craftsmanship in the areas that will never see the light of day. My theory is, that keeping the flow of good craftsmanship THROUGHOUT the car makes for good vibes. Even on clunkers and junkers I will deburr edges and round corners. It's called 'habit', and will be subconscious action when it really counts.

:D :D :D :D

Its called Peel & Seal, get it at Lowe's. Same as FatMat but cheaper.