Engine combination input
 

Hello, new here but i ve been reading and watching for a few months now. I am building a 383 Stroker for an 81 Z28 drag car and just curious as to what you guys thought about this engine combination. I am new to the engine building scene so a good friend of mine thats built a few engine in his time put this combo together so I was looking for any input, good or bad, on what you guys think.

Engine Combo

Eagle Forged Crank 3.750
Eagle Forged H-Beam Rods
SRP Forged -7.00 cc Dome Pistons
RHS 200 cc Pro Action Aluminum Heads -
Camshaft, Mechanical Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 306/306, Lift .555/.555
Rocker Arms, Ultra Gold, Stud Mount, Aluminum, 1.5 Ratio, 3/8 in. Stud
Intake Manifold, Victor Jr., Single Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore
Carburetor, Gasoline, 4150, 750 cfm, 4-Barrel, Down-Leg, Billet Metering Blocks, Dual Inlet

Let me know what you guys think about this combonation.

Thanks,
Jeremy

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Calculator_for_CID.html

I thought 383s were 3.8" stroke with a 4" bore???

You sure you're not building a 377???

Is this drag only, or street/strip? If it's drag only, assuming the head flow info from RHS is correct, I think the cam is to small and compression is too low (estimating 10.5:1 with 64cc head and .050 gasket).

http://www.racingheadservice.com/Inf...-SBC-200cc.gif

Jeremy,

Welcome to the forum. I am also new to the scene. The guys here are great and to me they are family already.

That combination sounds more like a hot, manual transmission street car engine.
JMO Dave

I bought the rotating assembly from Summit. Its a World Products Kit that the dont sell anymore. The bore of the block is 4.030 with a 3.750 stroke.

The motor is gonna be just for drag racing. Its my first drag car and it will be an automatic car.

I will check out those website and see what I can come up with, my buddy thought it would be a good combnation and get the car in the 11.65 range. I dont know but keep the ole comment coming because as of right now I only have the short block assembled so I can change thing before its to late.

Jeremy

I just visited the CID calculator and I came up with a 383 and 12.0497:1 Compression

Well, you're going to be limited by piston to valve clearance if the short block is together and the reciprocating assy is balanced.

How much piston to valve clearance do you have now with the cam that's in it?

My error on the compression, I used -7 instead of +7.

What rear gear is in the car? What trans? Bought a stall converter yet?

I assume your using a 400 cid block.....
bore is 0.030 over

What cc are the head chambers, 64, 67, 72????

Rod length; is it 5.700 or 6.000
What is your block decked at 9.000 or ???

How much wrist pin is in the lower ring grove?

Curious

he states the crank size and bore size.well sounds like a 383...


id contact udharold or camking here on racing junk for a cam if not then use lunati voodoo line cam.if not lastly id use the comp extreme line cam.

goodluck

your combo sounds just like my motor, mine is a 383 with srp 13 to 1 30 over 350 with 3.750 eagle crank and 6" eagle h-beam rods and 235cc pro action iron heads with the holley 750 hp carb powerglide and 4.71 gears and i'm running 10.70-80's. my cam is 630-630 solid roller and same intake.

Welcome to the forum JR!

I like everything in the combo except for the cam.
you'd be better off with a solid roller, granted it's a lot more money to go that route but the results will be well worth the extra dough.

With your current combo you should easily see 11's and I'll go out on a limb and say 10's with a solid roller.

JMO>Cp

I do not know how much piston to valve clearence I have yet, I have not purchased a cam or any other parts of the valve train.

The starting rear gear is gonna be 4.56, I m going to be running a Redneck Performance TH350 Tranny with Transbrake and there 9.5" converter, planning on a 4000 stall.

Im liking all the ideas that are being posted here. I have thought about putting in a solid roller cam but decided against it for now just so I could get the motor together on a decent budget and go enjoy it. I do however plan to go that route later on, I will always need a winter project. My mind may change after reading what you guys are posting here.

Jeremy

The block is a 350 block. The heads a 64cc chambers. I do not think the block was decked, it was just checked. As for the wrist pins, ther are almost clear through the lower ring grove.

Jeremy

jeremy you sound like me i did the samething with the cam but when the car went 11.84 i started looking for roller cam and a better converter be careful with redneck i had 7 passes on my converter doing my burnout on 8 th pass it let go call them and they want me to send them a $150 plus pay for parts and they would take care of it. i just got a ptc converter and was done with it, but think about it get the good stuff now and save some money.

A solid roller is night and day in performance over a big flat tappet. Friction alone is a huge performance increase.

cam
 

Hydraulic flat tappet cam in my opinion anything over .500 lift on these cams = increased wear wont last as long

x2

I agree. The better parts may cost more up front, but often, especially after the inferior parts fail or fail to perform, & you wind up having to get the good bits anyway, How cheap were they really?