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need 2 more tenths off
Need 2 more tenths off my time. What is something little to do.
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Try stepping on the gas pedal a little harder. lol
How bout telling us a little about your car, chassis and engine & tranny combo |
I would take off the Kanooder valve. Thats usually good for about 3 tenths. Maybe even throw some new Muffler bearings in that bad boy, if yours are worn it will slow it down some...
Sorry, I am tired and gettin a little goofy... Some more info would be very helpful! |
GO ON A DIET..LOOOOOOSE SOME WEIGHT
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Lie.
seriously though, To answer that question we need a bunch more info. 2 tenths is a whole lot easier to shave off on say a 12 second car than it is a 9 second car. What does it run now? Does it dead hook? is it a tank? Foot brake or trans brake? gear ratio? Is it missing any plug wires ? Does it have a corvette motor? Cheapest way is to make sure everything is tuned to the best of your ability or your smartest buddy's ability then take as much weight off the car as you can..especially rotating weight such as wheels.You could also stage really shallow or use a taller front tire this will give you more roll out and a little bit of a runing start...don't know if it's worth 2 tenths but it's worth a little. Easiest way is to just spray it with a small kit if you aren't already. |
2 tenths
The easiest way is to take off weight. Fiberglass hood, deck lid, doors and bumpers. Lexan windows. More HP is the second choice.
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Buy yourself a big shot system from NOS. Wire the system but do not use any of the retards or timers. Make sure you jet for the biggest hit you can get out of the plate. When you hit the floor, lay on the spray. Now that you have displaced your rods you got yourself an excuse to build a bigger motor. Hang on to that NOS, you might have the need to go faster again. :lol:
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If Money is no option throw a superchager on it. LOL :lol: :lol:
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2 tenths
cool air to carb
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for a bolt on, Some carb spacers are good for 10-12 horses :idea:
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He is getting addicted,We all want more! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Originally Posted by blowninjected540
If Money is no option throw a superchager on it. LOL :lol: :lol:
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Originally Posted by shawnp
Buy yourself a big shot system from NOS. Wire the system but do not use any of the retards or timers. Make sure you jet for the biggest hit you can get out of the plate. When you hit the floor, lay on the spray. Now that you have displaced your rods you got yourself an excuse to build a bigger motor. Hang on to that NOS, you might have the need to go faster again. :lol:
Man you guys are being tuff on this poor guy!! LOL I agree, we need more info, but put your car on a diet!!!! You can even use a race calculator and play with the #'s to see how the weight will effect it. This is a site I like to use when I'm bored. http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm |
Guys, I think shorty done lost interest.
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Originally Posted by suicidebomb
Guys, I think shorty done lost interest.
Dave |
Well that was only Saturday night when he posted. Not to mention you guys were pretty cruel with the replys!! lol
BTW I had a Kanooder valve on my old go -cart. I tied a string to it and tied the other end to the gas pedal and man did that thing come alive!! Good tip and may be worth way more than a few tenths!! |
From a saftey standpoint: One should NEVER wash a Kanooder valve, I washed mine, and I can't do a thing, with it.
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Originally Posted by suicidebomb
From a saftey standpoint: One should NEVER wash a Kanooder valve, I washed mine, and I can't do a thing, with it.
That'll work only it you didn't let the smoke out of it. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER let the smoke out of a Kanooder valve. Not sure why but they're just like an MSD box, when you let the smoke out it ruins 'em!! |
Yep, I let the smoke out!!DANG IT, is a new kanooder valve my only option? I really don't have the cash for a NEW kanooder valve.
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Well someone on here MIGHT have an extra kanooder valve. When you let out the smoke did it smell rotten eggs?
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Originally Posted by DirkaDirka
Well someone on here MIGHT have an extra kanooder valve. When you let out the smoke did it smell rotten eggs?
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OK than it was working fine. If it smelled like rotten eggs that meant it was bad and you would of had ot replace it anyways.
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SHEEEEW! I thought you were gonna say it smelled like fish! That would have been bad!!
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I HATE it when they smell fishy.
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Let me know what you guys found out, I am looking to lose about a second. :lol: In the first 60'.
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Originally Posted by CamBirdRacing
Let me know what you guys found out, I am looking to lose about a second. :lol: In the first 60'.
I think you're best bet would be to find a double Kanooder valve motor and put a 2,500 shot of Nos on it and HOLD ON!! :shock: |
Yeha but you got to make sure that the motor is a double kanooder vavle vette motor with a 3/4 cam in it
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I found a place in Kenohsa that rebuilds kanooders. It's a kindy kinky place.
Dave |
I finally figured it out. A long time ago someone told me they rebuilt Kanooders in Kalamazoo. No wonder I couldn't find 'em. There in Wisconsin!! Oh Boy, I'm in trouble. I don't speak French very well.
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Well you got to be careful when you send them to get rebuilt. They might put a dillywag in it that doesnt need to be in it. They did that to mine and I lost 5 secs on the 1/4 mile but my speed was faster.
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first try staging as shallow as possible, water/ methanol injection is the current most bang for your buck, and works great with carbs or fuel inj. that will easily give you what you need!
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Originally Posted by RAYSIN
first try staging as shallow as possible, water/ methanol injection is the current most bang for your buck, and works great with carbs or fuel inj. that will easily give you what you need!
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Here we go on the water/methanol and or washer fluid injection again.
Dang it man, there must be something to this stuff! Tell us more since shorty's not listening. Curious in Tn |
Hey guys go easy on him he is new here. He might not have seen the post from before.
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Originally Posted by RAYSIN
first try staging as shallow as possible, water/ methanol injection is the current most bang for your buck, and works great with carbs or fuel inj. that will easily give you what you need!
You're out of your gourd. |
MAN he got mater all riled up now!!!! :shock: :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Originally Posted by OneBadGMC
Originally Posted by RAYSIN
first try staging as shallow as possible, water/ methanol injection is the current most bang for your buck, and works great with carbs or fuel inj. that will easily give you what you need!
You're out of your gourd. |
I am just a little confused. Naw, I freaking lost. :?
Would you kindly care to elaborate on your comments posted above. If your going to go out on a limb and post something ina an effort to help a fellow racer or weekend warrior, Please provide factual info to back up your claim. It will help us all out in the future, in more ways than one....... On another note, Considering the initial cost of an intercooler vs. the cost of a water injection system, I have seen some impressive results on the dyno using water injection in lieu of an intercooler on procharger systems, but it is in no means a simple bolt on.... For the weekend warrior, installation & tuning the system may be just a little more than one would desire. The kits are not nearly as larger as a 1500 to 2000 hp A/W intercooler, as a matter of fact, they are quite compact and they do not take up near the space as does an A/W intercooler. The kits are quite a bit cheaper than an intercooler, but remember, you get what you pay for... And there are limits to the levels of performance you will be able to achieve. |
Ok I dig what he's trying to say about a water injection system aided detonation a blown application, but he also said something about using them on a N/A motor> WTH?
Yeah dude, elaborate. |
I tried water injection, couldn't get the motor started, so I went back to methanol.
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