trying to put motor together, crank is hard to turn
 

SBC . put the crank, rods, and new bearings all in. fresh from the machine shop. I noticed it is hard to turn about half way around. took the rod caps off and noticed some bearing wear already showing. prolly only turned it 8 turns just playin around. is this normal? should it turn easliy all the way around? yes I did use assembly lube. WTF

DID YOU MIC CRANK PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY? CHECK CLEARANCE? http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/

x2
if u didnt put some plastiguage to it and make it had good clearence that would explain it

Not normal at all, there could be a number of issues. Crank not turned round, not to size, or rods could be out of round. An assembled short block, sm/blk should turn over at about 20lbs torque with all new bearings, rear main seal and rings. in fact the last b/blk i assembled turned over at 20lb or less.

JMO

Zip.

STUPID QUESTION BUT HERE GOES....

Did you make sure not to mix up any rod and or main caps? Also..if your crank has a large fillet radius and you do not have chamfered bearings OR you Do have chamfered bearings and you mixed up the upper and lowers, it will do that.

X2 on what todd said. Did the crank spin easily without rods and pistons?

yea should feel and turn smoothly, check size on mains with just
bearings and then check the size of the crank, same with rods,
torque them down with bearings only, and some plastigauge, take your
time and double check the journals, i used clevite and king bearings
w/o a problem, check to see if you need chamfered bearings,
good luck :wink:

If clearances check out ok and you did not mix up the connecting rod caps,
how bout putting a screw driver between the main journal and crank counter weight, applying a tiny amount of pressure before sunggin down the main caps, then snug them down while pressure is applied? then begin torque sequence. I usuall do this on 3 & 4th main caps. Seems to work every time.
Also check your end play clearances
Are Maincaps facing front of crank correctly?

Sorry, Gotta Ask.

Also check for run out as the crank may not be straight.

I HAD THAT PROBLEM ONCE, MY SHOP TEACHER NUMBERED THE MAINS FROM THE BACK OF THE MOTOR, INSTEAD OF THE FRONT. MY CRANK WOULDNT TURN AT ALL... MAINS WERE ALL BACKWARDS... WE GOT IT STRAIGHTENED OUT THOUGH...

dparker may be on to something. did you have the block align honed, bored, or checked?

Yes as possibles to all of the above,& also are the rods the right way around on the pistons.Seems you have a bit of checking to do. good luck,Mark

I hate when people ask questions like this and then never come back to tell us what they found wrong.

Should have went with a ''MOPAR'' and this wouldn't have happened,normal ''CHEBBIE'' BLOWUP BEFORE EVEN RUNNING THE ENGINE :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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motor hard to turn
 

did you break a ring during assembly?? Look for deep scratches in cylinder wall. Kris

MOPAR, I THINK YA GOT A BAD CASE OF CHEVY ENVY, A CHEVY MUST HAVE DUSTED YA BAD RECENTLY :!: :P :P

Hard to turn
 

Are you sure you have the correct bearings? Not a .010 instead of a STD for example.

Shoot a ''CHEBBIE'' dusting me :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Not a chance :!: :!: ''CHEBBIES'' don't run long enough, just look at what this thread is about :!: :!: :lol: :lol: :lol:


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TO SOME GUYS PUTTING A BRIGGS & STRATON TOGETHER IS A CHALLANGE. :P NOW HES TRYING A V8 :shock: WHEN HE SCREWS UP THE CHEVY HE WILL ONLY BE HALF AS BROKE AS HE WOULD BE WITH A MOPAR :!: :!:

Well...this is another thread by the same guy......

HA!
 

RECENTLY and OFTEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not Something NEW,just a FACT!
Later
G 8)

Nah you can watch my videos on my profile and prove that statement wrong :!: Teah i agree ''MOPARS'' does cost more to build, But look at all the raw horse power you can release, unlike a ''CHEBBIE'' that pukes bottom end out in the staging lanes :!: :!: :lol: :lol: either one of these are funny as hell :!: :!:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIbg8UqX6uU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwWIUeaSdx8


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THERE ARE SOME MOPARS AROUND HERE THAT DONT BLOW UP EITHER, BUT I HAVE NEVER SEEN ONE GO FASTER THAT 15 SEC 1/4 MILE,,, SO IF YOUR MOPAR IS SO GOD DAM GREAT WHATS YOUR CAR RUN? LETS HERE IT...

4.70'S in 1/8-- low 7.40'S in 1/4 now what's your's asshole :?: :?:

''JUST MY TWO CENT'S WORTH''

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...lBoyCrying.jpg

this is chevynovaman :!: :!:

THE CHASSIS GUY NEEDS TO BE FIRED. :shock:

Why? that's hookin' up pretty good sounds like

TISS TISS
 

Hey Mopar1968, seewhat all that S@#$T TALKIN started. I think that you have something else that runs in the 4's & 7's. I figured some of these guys would get back at ya. Kris

Nah Kris been here quite awhile, most know me on a first name basis,bought parts from them, they know how i am, no worries here, and when you get to know me you will understand also :!: :!:


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Mopar-

I know you are just jokin'... I would talk some smack talk, but I have too much to learn still. I will be happy w/ 11's this summer. Scooter

:lol: :lol: X2 ME TOO

MOPAR,, YOU WOULD BE LUCKY TO HIT A 15 SEC 1/4 WITH THE PEA GRAVEL WE RACE ON IN WI, AND TO WHAT YOU SAID ABOUT ME WITH THE PICTURE, YOU HAVE TO BE THE BIGGEST PRICK THIS SITE HAS EVER HAD... AS FAR AS I KNOW YOU CANT EVEN RUN AT A TRACK SO DO I HAVE TO RACE YOUR BROTHER!!!! IF THATS THE CASE I HAVE A RACE FOR HIM..... I AM GOING TO RETREAT FROM THE SITE BECAUSE OF THIS DIPSHITS STUPID COMMENTS ALL THE TIME... TO ALL AND EVERYBODY ELSE HAVE A NICE DAY AND THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP....

There is a good reason my brothers driving but as for this one i will do it :!: Come get some :!:


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He was just yanking your chain...no need to leave the site. \

Yeah i explained it to ''bowhay'' this one just took it harder :?: :?: Go figure ''Tod'' :?:


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