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X2 with Harbone! May have been to smooth with the 1000 grit and it has nothing to grab to... Like harbone said that stuff adheres to about anything. Also keep in mind P.O.R. is what it says (Paint Over Rust) it uses very little prep you want it clean but I think you may be to smooth rabbit!
X2 on the hijackin Harbone sorry! |
I've found that if the metal has a tad bit of porosity, any oils or silicones that have ever been on that metal will NOT allow paints to adhere properly. EXTREMELY aggressive metal prep is called for in those circumstances.
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Du Pont Prep Sol #3919S Cleaning Solvent
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Originally Posted by oldandtired
Du Pont Prep Sol #3919S Cleaning Solvent
Once I strip it down to bare metal again, should I prime it or just paint it with POR? If I heat the frame before I paint it would it help make the paint tougher? I sure wish I had the time to take the truck completely apart and get it powder coated. Harbone sorry 'bout this. I can make another thread if you want me too. |
No worries Rabbit, this is how we all learn. My experience with POR over the years besides its impossible to get off my skin is it works best over bare metal with no primer. If the primer fails then the POR just falls off. I use rubbing alcohol to prep my surface. I have used it on old rusty wheelbarrows and mower decks and it always adheres like superglue. Make sure you are stirring it the whole time you are using the product, it has a tendency to seperate and settle. Also once the can is opened it starts reacting and heat makes it worse. If I have any left overs I transfer it to a different container, like a Mason jar and keep it in my garage fridge per the instructions on the can.
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Great info, Chris !
Nothing like sharing one's experiences. |
After getting all the staples out of the upper door panels I bought, I installed the new inner window felts. Use some soft clamps and riveted them back on. Worked pretty good! Also pulled the inner window guides off and replaced the worn out felts with the loop side of some velcro. Put some rubber hose on the inner door handle rod to try and de-rattle everything.
http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/1/16/24886161-108.jpg http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/7/24/24886247-917.jpg Got my dash braces and inner sill plate covers back from sandblasting. Hung them up and gave a nice coat of paint. You wont see any of them but I didnt have much else to do this weekend. http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/2/11/24886112-477.jpg http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/5/18/24886185-416.jpg http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/5/23/24886235-874.jpg So why the paint was drying I started on putting the Peel & Seal on the inner doors. Got the heat gun out this time and it really helped making in stretch and stick to the contours. Turned out great! http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/0/43/24888430-076.jpg http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/9/44/24888449-443.jpg http://s3.racingjunk.com/ui/7/52/24888527-597.jpg At a stand still now, waiting on carpet, interior dye, door panel clip kit and some other stuff from Heather and Pete and F-Body Warehouse. Have I said how great they are?!?!:) |
What kind of sound deadener
you using? |
Chris,
RE; your dash braces , kudos; When I do any work on a nice car, I always make it a point to do nice craftsmanship in the areas that will never see the light of day. My theory is, that keeping the flow of good craftsmanship THROUGHOUT the car makes for good vibes. Even on clunkers and junkers I will deburr edges and round corners. It's called 'habit', and will be subconscious action when it really counts. :D :D :D :D |
Its called Peel & Seal, get it at Lowe's. Same as FatMat but cheaper.
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