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Originally Posted by zerotolerance
i run a 388 sbc also with the block filled to the bottom of the water pump inlet i run a meziere eletric pump and no t stat, i cant get my motor to run above 160 i use my motor alot on the street and its 15.5:1 compression. if i do let the temp run up 180-90 not using the fan, it does take longer to get the temp down back around 160. most of the time i usualy dont use the fan she just runs 160 cruising around. hope this helps your decision.
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have you done an A-Z cost analysis of what this is gonna cost you to have this cracked blocked re-sleeved
( time taking out engine,tearing down,machine work etc....) Sorry but i just cannot see you coming out ( $$$$ ) repairing damaged goods when you can Buy a FACTORY ready to go un-damaged block pretty reasonable.. if you had a cracked Dart little M block or something like that i could understand repairing. EXAMPLE:...Not ready to go but cheap enough. http://www.racingjunk.com/post/13713...ort-block.html JMO. :roll: Brian |
Originally Posted by kwkracing
zerotolerance where do yo u drive this car? In alaska? Antarctica? Theres no way you can drive a block filled 15to1 motor around and never worry about over heating unless it was in a boat getting 20 degree water for cooling. lol... Im curious.
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I would only go around 3 inches below the freeze plugs using hardblock so ya have a lil space still too cool the engine. 3 inches below will still tie the cylinders together and still allow cooling, race only ,take care
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