View Full Version : Which Oil For Break-in?
Finishing my 383 SBC and I need to pick an oil to run. I want to run synthetic but I need a break-in oil so I was looking at the Joe Gibbs line, any suggestions on which weight? I know there will be more info needed to make a suggestion so ask away. Also, which weight synthetic and how many hours should I run the break-in oil before switching?
Thanks
Swiley383
10-16-2013, 04:47 PM
If you are running a comp cam they have oil just for break in. Follow the instructions with the cam I believe it's 1800 to 2200
Rpm for 20 minutes varying the rpm but double check me on that it should be in the cam installation instructions as for weight I have used
Straight 30 weight in the past for break in. After the initial break in run change the oil if it a street motor I would not use synthetic at the first change put a few hundred miles on it and change it again and use what you want as far as synthetic goes. I am not saying comp oil is better than joe Gibbs it just what I have used for break in before.
TheRabbit
10-16-2013, 05:38 PM
Have used Rotella 10-40 for years as break in oil.
markdunlap
10-16-2013, 06:08 PM
Same here plus GM EOS additive or ZDDP additive.
cncmotorsports
10-17-2013, 07:09 PM
This is the oil we use, we have tested all the other name brands. This is by far the best break-in oil we have found.
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/lubricants/engine-oil/schaeffer-diesel-supreme-7000-10w-30-para-synthetic-motor-oil-1-quart.html
roadkill2
10-18-2013, 07:14 AM
Someplace back down the list of posts is a great piece of information by an independent testor . .
Go read it . . . anything put up here in this thread is either redundant or possibly just opinion. I had several of my own "opinions" before I read it . . Now I have a lot fewer!
Someplace back down the list of posts is a great piece of information by an independent testor . .
I figured there would be I just didn't find it, any idea of the thread title?
This is a solid roller race application with a single carb on gasoline that will be run on a stand before heading to the dyno shop, how many hours should I put on it before changing to synthetic oil? What break-in procedure would you suggest?
roadkill2
10-20-2013, 07:36 AM
Here ya go . . read it completely before you form any kind of opinion.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
http://www.oilextreme.com/index.html
curtisreed
10-21-2013, 10:14 AM
This is a solid roller race application with a single carb on gasoline that will be run on a stand before heading to the dyno shop, how many hours should I put on it before changing to synthetic oil? What break-in procedure would you suggest?
Just the way I do it. Fill with break in oil. Start motor and run doing all the checks, leaks, timing, etc. until you have good heat in the motor. Let it cool, pull filter and cut apart. Replace filter and lost oil.
Go to track. Make a few passes 3 or 10 no set number, whatever you feel comfortable with. Come home cut the filter apart and change to the oil of your choice. I have been running the Amsoil Dominator racing. I have had great results with it, but I am going to be changing to Lucas 10w-30 synthetic racing oil. I can get the Lucas for about the same money, they are huge supporters of my sport, after researching I believe it will work a little better with methanol and I have never liked the way the Amsoil turns brown from red even though it doesn't hurt a thing.
JMO
Curtis
shybx1969
11-11-2013, 03:40 AM
Here ya go . . read it completely before you form any kind of opinion.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
http://www.oilextreme.com/index.htmlWow the truth gets a guy death threats...excellent article dude... :D
shybx1969
11-11-2013, 04:19 PM
The only thing i wanna add is whats good for tony stewart...may not be so good for john force....does a drag engine wear different from say a pulling truck engine...just curious. :?
roadkill2
11-12-2013, 05:02 AM
The only thing i wanna add is whats good for tony stewart...may not be so good for john force....does a drag engine wear different from say a pulling truck engine...just curious. :?
Of course. A NASCAR engine generally fails because of a valve train issue (High RPM for long durations) where a Truck will probably fail from bottom end bearing failure.
Drag engines are a little different because of the many different kinds of drag racing. With the advent of electronic rev limiting devices, most drag racers have pretty much confined their breakage to random parts failures, and common sense usually will limit how hard you buzz your bullet . .
Forced Induction engines will suffer bottom end failures and Nitrous Engines (with and without turbos) get piston and ring failures from high combustion chamber temps. Those are "General" differences and the "General" failures that come with them.
And in all of those, while requiring a good grade of oil, the kind of oil used usually doesn't contribute greatly to those failures named above . . As the engineer who ran all those tests illustrated.
The best thing you can do with your oil, is to pay attention to it. As has been noted by several correspondents, look closely at the oil on the head when you "Run Your Valves" and after a race weekend, let the car sit for a few hours (or a day) and then drain a quart off the bottom, unscrew the filter, cut the filter open, and inspect both the drained oil and the contaminants caught in the oil filter. Any more than trace "Sparkles" could mean that you may have a problem.
bubbabbc
11-13-2013, 05:59 PM
Brad Penn 30 wgt break in oil is popular with many teams in the Northeast running methanol.
roadkill2
11-14-2013, 05:00 AM
A word to the wise . . Over the years I've used the old "Sh*t in the carburetor" analogy as advice about doing what others have been observed doing, especially when they're successful.
In Racing, almost any kind, when one team is winning or going fast, everyone wants to know what they're doing or using to be so successful. And if a member of that team is seen taking a crap into the carburetor prior to the next race, many other racers will be seen straining over their carburetors for no other reason than they saw Member "X" doing it and "those guys go fast".
Point being, whatever the other guy does to his ride, do a little research and deduce the effect that change or material, or part will have on your engine. Don't assume it's good just because "John Force" uses (or says he does) a part, system or fluid of some sort. Knowing that someone one 'Does This or That" means nothing. KNOWING WHY is everything!
Go to the Oil Test Site I posted. Print it out. Read it until you understand it completely. I think it's one of the most informational and honest test series I've ever read. And it should save you both wear and tear on your precious Racing Engine and give you peace of mind that you're not using the best oil you can afford but the best oil that works.
Incidentally, I neglected to post the original poster's name and kind of blew that off. Sorry about that. Now I can't find it either, but thanks again for that link. It's a great piece of information!
So after reading that article I'm thinking after I do the break-in thing I'll just grab the first oil on the list, do you see a flaw in my plan?
roadkill2
11-15-2013, 05:18 AM
I suppose, if that's what you got out of the article . .
The guy tested oils for their lubricity under stress and temperature extremes. Then gave an honest report on those he tested.
Out of all of that he gave several choices that are good and some not so . . .
He also dis-proved several ideas or theories.
But, again, it's up to each individual to take what was written for whatever they think it's worth. I tend to favor the writer's results because he wasn't supported by any oil or aftermarket parts company in his testing, so had no axe to grind with anyone or anything . .
In every case, in this forum or any other, when someone asks a group of correspondents a question, he/she will probably get a whole range of answers because of the range of experience of those responding to the questions. In the case of the oil tests, it's nothing more than a qualified engineer conducting objective testing and reporting the results of those tests.
In my own case, after using more than six or seven oils over the years and never having an engine failure that I could trace back to failure of the Lubricant (other than not being where it was supposed to be) I welcome a report like that. It makes a lot of claims and explanations look a lot like they really are, just semi-logical explanations in order to market and sell a product.
Kinda like "Global Warming" . . Unless you are presented with the hard science you'll tend to believe the guy with the loudest bullhorn . . .