409 chevy will not start when it gets hot

[nashtychevy]

Have a 64 ss impala Convertable With 409 Only 5000 Miles On rebuild ,Top Down Weather Wont start when You Drive The car And It gets Hot .New Battery New Napa Gm Starter It Does Have The Orginal Voltage Porcelain resistor It Wont Even Turn Over Its Just Plain dead ,When Cold You Hardly hit The starter and Its running ,Any Suggestions Would Help thanks Tony

[TheYellaBrick]

Do you have juice any where else? Lights work? Radio ? Heater motor ?

[nashtychevy]

Do you have juice any where else? Lights work? Radio ? Heater motor ? Yes I Have Juice To Everything Else Including Lights Radio Horn Heater Thanks For Your Help Tony

[bcw49]

Your starter may be getting heat soaked. Is your exhaust close to the starter? You may need to get a shield for the starter, or a remote start set up, or a mini starter that will have more clearence between it and the exhaust. Just a couple of idea's that might help. Sounds like a KOOL car. :)

[fla1976]

Have you checked the cables for conductivity?

[markdunlap]

Do you have 12 volts to ground on the small wire on the starter solenoid when you turn the key to start?

If not back up till you find it.

If so, do you have 12 volts on the big wire on the solenoid.

If you have room, get a remote starter button and hook across the big wire and the little wire and see if it turns over when you push the button.

With the key on, it should start off the remote button.

[roadkill2]

Will the starter work if you jump from the Battery cable to the "S" terminal on the solenoid?

If it does, you probably need what is termed a "Hot Start Kit" which, basically, is a 12V-40 A relay, primary would be the "S" wire, and the secondary, a 14 Ga wire switched through the Relay to the "S" terminal on the solenoid.

GM's "better idea" (Way back when) was an 18 ga "S" wire and over the years, some of the strands in that wire apparently get frayed (especially in cars w/ tilt steering wheels) and with the new quarter wound solenoids, you don't provide enough amperage to make the electromagnetic switch in the solenoid work . . .

Went through this with my street rod a few years back . . Haven't had a starting problem since I applied this little device . .

[hotrod1994]

check your timing my dads always told me if its set wrong after it get hot it will crank really hard idk just a thought

[qiksix]

I had a 350 do the same thing after a rebuild, turned out it didn't have enough crankshafft endfloat was picking up the bearing when getting hot.

[Scooterz]

I had the same issue on the last BBC in my 69 Camaro... it was correct V's, wiring looked good, I had a heat shield, etc... would start cold... but when hot & could barely even get a "click"/ or movement when starting. Bought a new mini starter. Upon taking the old starter out, I found that the starter motor base was not tight to the mounting plate... you could wiggle it some... just a little... I tightened it & used some Blue Loctite & never had that issue again. Good luck!

[TheYellaBrick]

Well he musta got it figgered cuz he ain't been back. We forgot to ask him if it would even rotate by hand. Like qiksix suggested it might be too tight tolerances.

[roadkill2]

I had the same issue on the last BBC in my 69 Camaro... it was correct V's, wiring looked good, I had a heat shield, etc... would start cold... but when hot & could barely even get a "click"/ or movement when starting. Bought a new mini starter. Upon taking the old starter out, I found that the starter motor base was not tight to the mounting plate... you could wiggle it some... just a little... I tightened it & used some Blue Loctite & never had that issue again. Good luck!

It wasn't the "loose' that caused the problem, it was the lack of an adequate "Ground" . . .

[TheYellaBrick]

An inadequate ground is the cause of a high percentage of electrical problems. I make it a habit to wire in a separate grounding circuit and run a grounding wire from every piece of electric on the car to a dedicated grounding block. The days of grounding to a sheet metal screw in the inner fender well are waaaaaay behind me ! Perfect example is that loose starter, as stated it was an inadequate ground. If there had been a dedicated grounding wire the 'starter' problem wouldn't have occurred. In that particular instance,however, a possible catastrophe was discovered before it happened. I've had the starter dragging on the ground experience, myself ! :oops: :oops:

[roadkill2]

Way back when (Yeah, before the wheel was perfectly round) I was mentored in a little gas station/garage by an old WWII Air craft Mechanic. We're talking about the 6 Volt, cloth wrapped insulation stuff that required a Jillion Amps to do anything. My mentor always insisted that loose or dirty connections were the general bugaboo for most of the ills that befell customer's cars, and in about 80% of the cases, he was right. Back then, a good ground was just about anything that touched metal because of the Amp draw it would arc it's own connection.

Today, a good ground, through, usually, a ground wire at least as big in gauge as the feed wire is a must. Ignitions operate on millivolts, and draw lots of amps, so there's little chance of arcing a ground. And the days of a cheapie plug in connection is history. I use those really neat waterproof GM connectors on everything, including dome lights and crap like that . . They, and the water tight Bendix plugs are the only connectors I'd use on any thing . . On the ground side, I use a 1" braided ground strap between the engine and frame, and for all the body and firewall grounds, I have terminal blocks specifically for ground with 8 ga. wire going to the negative battery post . . On my street rod, the TBI system is grounded to a separate grounding block and goes (again) straight to the neg on the battery.

Damned electrical, no matter how simple you attempt to make it, usually causes more problems on a car than anything else. Drag Race cars are especially vulnerable because of the vibration and shock created by hard leaves. In-car videos we take shows everything in the car moving (and twisting) when you do a frame by frame of the start. The chassis and cage are about as rigid as you can make a 7.50 cert, and we're pretty thorough, but after watching a couple of videos, we began a little tighter maintenance program . . Electrical connections (specifically bolted or screw fastened) are subject to loosening as are the CO2 plumbing for the shifter and 'chute . . Just stuff you have to pay attention to so your weekend will be successful instead of becoming a headscratcher . .

[Scooterz]

With electrical, "head scratching" has been a normal way of life for me. Combined with ADD (w/ the "H" too) & I am quickly in big trouble. I will pay EVERY time to con, bribe & beg someone to help me unless I have a painless wiring kit. On the flip side, can do a whole fuel set up carefully using all AN's & delicately building/measuring each thing to a perfect fit; but then my wiring will look like an abortion. Wiring is actually a personal curse from the pit of hell. I have shocked myself so many times that my brain has been programmed automatically to screw it up worse. Man I would rather play "Couples Bunco" (bad, bad bad) then crawl under the dash of a car with a cage & non sliding side bars... that is personal visit from hell for me. Other than that, wiring is really fun.

[outlaw256]

i was never really good at wiring,but after mt wreck man i cant wire up a old 4 wire 8 track you know the ones with 1 hot, 1 ground and 2 speaker wires

[bokal]

First can you turn the motor by hand when its hot if not could be in the motor FIRST THING I WOULD TRY

[roadkill2]

Back to square one . . Does the Starter Solenoid fully activate when the key is turned to "Start" ?