sbc 383 stroker

[longdaleman]

hey,i got an sbc 350 and i wanna make it in to an 383 stroker that makes about 400 to 450hp i have an highrise intake,202 camel hump heads, and im looking at an hydraulic roller cam,and seed pro pistons to get the cmpression up to about 10:1. what do yall think, thanks guys

[bubbaf100]

How radical do you want it to be? What intake do you have?
You want to race or just sound good or both? It's an all N/A build right?
Give me your goals. Head Work is a must screw in studs, guide plates,
Double springs minimum, VTO seals. Scorpion or Harland Sharp or Howards or Crane or Lunati rockers. Stay away from Comp Cams or Proform especially ProComp. To get into the 450HP with double humps mild port matching of intake manifold is a must if yous is 7101 Edelbrock. A RPM Air Gap is worth 12HP 15 tq better as cast and port matching,plenum polish, full runner debur, 1in. Spacer will add 25-32HP 20-26tq over the 7101.
It all depends on your goals. I personally have no problem driving a 3500
Stall converter with 4:10s daily killing the pavement and getting the neighbors and cops pissed off. 8)
I like that radical idle and drive my engines to their intended purpose
of only performance screw that POS Comp Thumpr WanABe cam their junk and don't last from their Chinese or blemed Cam Cores.
A scat 9000 crank 4032 piston forged I beam cap screw rods
All internally balanced will have a great foundation without NO2.
If your going to spend for an H Roller conversion make sure
Everything is machined to last which is very $$$. But most parts
Can be reused on the rebuild or freshen up, if you look at it as an investment.
Give me your opinion of what you'd like and don't like.

[longdaleman]

Im putting it in my 72 nova im going to make it an street /strip car that runs off pump gas and the intake is an holley high rise intake

[mytmouz]

Ditch the heads. By the time you pay to upgrade the seats to run unleaded, you can buy a better flowing set of heads for the same money...

[bubbaf100]

Well hopefully its not the contender manifold,better the street dominator or better Strip Dominator. If the are the Strip or Street Dominator I got a couple of H-roller set ups that can make you fly. First Stay away from Comp Cams
lately they have been importing Asian cores last Feb. I ordered a customer a mild Solid Roller and sent me cast iron Solid roller,very piss poor and another
ocasion on a H-roller a few years back ordered a 4/7 swap cast iron gear
for a mild stock repalcement sent me a cast oron roller cam that was 15'' off the cam card. They used to be like Crower,Lunati,Isky and others now they
are so big customer service is piss poor.
Ok with the intake,heads, that you provided using a Holley 750 or better a Speed Demon 650 or Quickfuel 750 carb I got a couple of grinds that will make you happy.
1). Most Sreetable Very Similiar to a Mech. Tappet Isky 280 cam 3000 stall
By Doug Hebert CCH-244 525/525 280/280 adv. dur. 245/245@50 on a 110 lobe sep. I'd install advanced 2 degrees to give a 108 lobe sep for another 10-12HP. Also get it with a cast iron Distributor gear for much less headaches and
I'd top it off with a 4/7 swap for a smooth torque curve.
All for an MSRP of $299.99 for an H-roller,cast iron Dist. gear and a 4/7 swap
all made in America. $219.99 just for basic H-roller bronze Dist, gear standard firing order. RPM range 2500-6700
2). A liitle more Radical Herbert Cam H-roller. For Street/Strip 3200-3500 stall
CCH-240 300/310 adv. 240/250@50 535/535 on a 110lobe.
$219.99 base price. All the goodies 4/7 swap cast iron gear.$299.99.
RPM range 3000-7000
3). Lunati VooDoo •Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 294/302
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .560/.565
•LSA/ICL: 110/106
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
•RPM Range: 2800-6400
Part number 60113
3200 stall Super Aggressive power and torque. $320.95
4). Howards H-Roller 110345-10
300/306 adv. 560/580 247/253@50 on a 110 lobe.
3500 stall 2800-6400 RPM Range for $265.99 through Competition Products
5). Just about as radical as an H-roller can get without too much trouble
Another Hebert cam 560/580 280/285 250/255@50 on a 110 lobe
part number CC6L for #219.99 with all extras $299.99
Needs 3500 stall a little on the big side but will run good.
Let me know what you think.

[longdaleman]

I like the howards H roller cam. Were is an good place to get that cam :P

[bubbaf100]

The Howards cam you can get through Competitionproducts.com or better phone number 1800 299 0199.
The rotating kit that will last alot onger than a stock bottom end without breaking the bank you can find it on ebay through Skip white performance
for $849 plus $59 shipping that includeds a Scat 9000 crank.Forged flat top pistons,h-beam rods,all bearings,balancer,flexplate and all comes already balanced ready to assemble this kit is externallt balanced and have used these same kits and support 540HP without problems. I've used several at 520HP to 560HP. Good Stuff.
Phone number 1-423-722-5152 or 1-877-383-5152
Here is the link to the ad
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-CHEVY-SCAT-383-ROTATING-ASSEMBLY-FORGED-030-PISTONS-H-BEAM-RODS-FT-2PC-RMS-/350561993618?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item519f1f8392

@30 over will give 11:1 compression he has a dish piston kit to give you a more friendly 9.5:1 compression.
You'll have to put at least $350 in labor for the heads from milling to install hard seats, install screw in studs with guide plates.
I'd get a set of RHS or Dart heads that already the hard shit done already
to save on cost and get more power. On a RHS 200 head with a mild H-roller will get you in the 500-510HP and 490tq or a Dart head will work fine as well.
Let me know what you think.

[longdaleman]

Yea i like that kit and that cam. But idk what im going to do with the heads yet.but an buddy of mine has an 400 crank and he wants 50 bucks for it what do u think about that crank

[bubbaf100]

Well a 400 crank will work take it to a machine shop to have it mains turned down,be sure you get the flexplate and especially the balancer.
Be sure to use 350 rods in a 5.7 or 6in length. Their is another kit I've used a few times that was very affordable is ths one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eagle-Sbc-Stroker-Kit-383-Balanced-Rotating-Assembly-/200752722945?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ebdcb7401&vxp=mtr

Pretty inexpensive with free shipping after all the machine work and balancing and parts the rotating kit will only be $60-$100 with better parts but I've used 400 cranks several times in the past in 383 builds but I've always used a light to ultra light piston to get the big RPM's quick but back then I was using mechanical flat tappets and had plenty of fun. All together you can build a 383 today using a purchased machine block,with the kit listed above machine you heads,Solid flat cam,carb,distributer for under 2300 bucks. I'd look around for a 383 that is a complete shortblock why because you'll save on average $250-500 but be sure to get through a quality shop that specializes in HP not a POS Foreign and Domestic Machine Shop.

[longdaleman]

Ok then thanks bud i appreciate it

[bubbaf100]

I was looking over a couple of old invoices and they are still in business is AeroHead heads. Today you can buy a set of camel humps with 3 angle valve job with screw in studs for $399 for the pair Ready to bolt on!!!.
2.02 or 1.94 valve size.
Add $80 for roller springs and add $80 for hard seats. :D
http://www.aeroheadracing.com/id7.html
If you don't have heads yet this will save you minimum $150-$300 bucks.
On average core set is $150-$300 about $50 for mag and pressure test,
$300 in machine work-includes machine for screw in studs and still you need the springs for a H-roller. Spring and retainers good quiality $100-$150.
All together About $600-$800. Free up extra $$$ for the roller set up.
The heads I sold from here are still on the customers car and its been almost 4 years with no issues other than going faster. 8)

[longdaleman]

Yea i already have the heads

[bubbaf100]

Since you already have the heads I'd do this valvetrain kit from Competition Products. http://www.competitionproducts.com/Head-Improvement-Kit-Chev-SB-202-160-Valve-Hyd_Mech-FT/productinfo/851226/

They have other kits for a 1.94 1.5 or 2.02 1.5.

Springs are rated to 550 lift you can use the Howards cam I suggested, that you liked but I'd advise not too if drive it with your foot in it all the time like me then I would not but if its spending time mostly cruising then it would be okay but the Doug Herbert cams being the first 2 would be better however another Howards cam would be another good choice, a little more radical similiar profile.
Chev SB 262-400 1955-1998
Advertised Duration: 304/310
Duration @ .050": 251/257
Valve Lift w/1.50 Rockers: .555/.555
Lobe Separation Angle: 110
Intake Centerline: 106
Valve Lash: Hyd./Hyd.
3000-6800. Rough idle, upper mid-range & top end power. Needs 11.0:1+ CR.

As long as you don't use too much poweradders you can use the stock 400 crank no problem just be sure to get the balancer. Use 350 rods an
affordable piston to your liking. This other Howards cam is pretty lopey get a
minimum 3000 stall to use it with 4.10's and hold on the neighbors will hate
it too bad :o
I've had a few problems with them till I just burned them in their own driveway
then never had a problem since. 8)

[Anninnto]

<!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->Sorry to bring up a dead topic but I am having an issue.

I recently ported a set of GMPP<!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->https://mechanicguides.com/best-383-stroker-kit/ fast burn heads, for a friend of mine, that are going on a 383.
I had a 383 sitting in the shop that had been dynoed with a different set of heads, so I offered to dyno his heads on it to see the power potential of his heads, and to compare to the heads it had already been dynoed with.

We first dynoed his new heads with everything just like the 383 had already been dynoed with. Then we changed out the cam to the cam he plans on running in his 383.

The engine is,
4150 braswell carb,
ported motown intake with 1" spacer,
GMPP fast burn heads with 2.02"/1.56" valves with a finished volume of 210cc. (were GMPP vortecs)
1.7/1.7 shaft rockers
flat top pistons with a comp. of 11.5/1
4.031 bore x 3.75 stroke
1 3/4 x 1 7/8 step header, 3" collector

1st cam dynoed = comp cam 236/248 108 lsa .380in/.367ex lobes.
2nd cam dynoed= Howards shelf cam 255/261 108 lsa, .400 in .413 ex lobe

The 3 columns listed are with the Howards cam at 102*/105*/108* ICL.
When we switched to the bigger cam, peak TQ rpm went up 400-500 rpm, but peak HP rpm was very little higher than with the small cam.

Why? What’s the limit to peak HP rpm on this engine?

What would you change if looking for more power, but no more rpm?

What does the results of these 3 cam position pulls tell us about the engine/cam?

I realize there will be info wanted by some, so just ask.

I can post a pull with the small Comp cam if needed.

[BigBlockMark]

I would post these questions on Yellow Bullet Forum tech section.