View Full Version : belt drive pump
sds10racer
04-03-2010, 08:07 PM
read on another post that you should have a fuel cell up front to run one. why? is there some reason the circle track guys can and dragracers can't?
hammertime
04-05-2010, 07:39 AM
I've seen many people do it without any issues :)
shawnp
04-05-2010, 08:11 AM
You want to make sure that your tank is not lower than your pump location. You will need gravity to be your friend when running from the trunk. That is just from personal experience.
sds10racer
04-05-2010, 09:02 PM
i'm personally not using one, but a friend is in a 72 chevelle. so he should make sure the tank outlet is higher. does the fuel line going thru the frame help, as it is lower? a lot of the circle track guys have them about the same level in the alchohol classes.
zipper06
04-05-2010, 10:25 PM
One thing you have to remember is that a positive displacment pump is not a sucker, it's designed to push fuel. Sure it has some suction due to the vacuum created in the fuel line, that's why most people run front mounted fuel cells on drag cars, and even then they are mounted with the bottom of the tank close to the fuel pump level.
On the round racers, if you're talking about sprint cars, their tanks are mounted high and most of them drive the pump off the back of the cam.
JMO
Zip.
curtisreed
04-06-2010, 04:44 AM
You can always mount the pump in the rear and cable drive it off of the front of the engine so it is not having to suck as far.
Curtis
sds10racer
04-06-2010, 08:40 PM
the roundy cars i'm refering to is the wissota late models and mods. the fuel pump is belt drive on the front of the engine, just like an alt. some of the tanks are mounted low, others high. also, are all belt pumps "pushers" or is there a way to tell if they suck the fuel. asking these ? as i don't want my friends engine to run bad from lack of fuel. also need to know to defend the reasoning to the guys at the shop where he is building the car. these guys have been racing wissota classes in huron,sd for quite a few years using this type of fuel system. and i don't think they are the only ones.
zipper06
04-07-2010, 12:01 AM
The Hilborn,Enderle, and Rons are, i can't speak for the others. One thing else is that these guys may be feeding them with an electric pump mounted back near the tank which will usually work especially with a carb.
JMO
Zip.
sds10racer
04-07-2010, 08:08 PM
thanks for the ideas, gonna take a closer look at his setup and the late model beside it and ask more ? from them to see why it is set up the way it is. also, should it have an internal or external bypass, and what kind of regulators for each.
zipper06
04-07-2010, 08:44 PM
If it's an injection engine you'll have to run a bypass pill, if it's carberated you have to have a fuel pressure regulator and bypas that way.
JMO
Zip.
shawnp
04-08-2010, 02:28 AM
Zip,
When we changed from carb to injection back to carb. When we made the switch we worked with Rupert that way we did not have to have the regulator and bypass. We drilled the pill until the fuel pressure was correct.
sds10racer
04-08-2010, 07:48 PM
thanks, guys. i'll look at his setup and see what i find. charlie
zipper06
04-13-2010, 03:22 PM
Zip,
When we changed from carb to injection back to carb. When we made the switch we worked with Rupert that way we did not have to have the regulator and bypass. We drilled the pill until the fuel pressure was correct.
That's one way too do it, but actaually there's an easier way. You can use an idle bypass valve/poppet. They come with 3 or 4 springs and shims ranging from 5 to 20lbs. I don't know how much the carb seats will hold, but i'm guessing 10 to 14 lbs. You can choose a 10 lb spring and useing a leakdown gage set the poppet to your target by useing the shims provided with the idle bypass valve.
Zip.