starter problems all season

[chpseat987]

I have a 72 nova that has a big 427 with headers, I can not count how many starters I went through last year, and cost me several rounds, they get hot and game over, I placed a huge fan behind the front tire trying to cool it and it helps, has anyone else had these kind of problems and whats a good fix? it seems after they get hot on go on the fritz I have to replace them, I can get about 2 days racin and I have to replace the starter, lucky I purchased 2 lifetime warr starters at checker :oops: and just kept exchangeing them. :?: :?: :?:

[oldandtired]

A possible option with a stock type starter is a heat shield and a remote solenoid. If this does not work you are probably going to have to make the move to a mini starter.
Also make sure you are jetted correctly. A lead condition really makes the headers heat up.
Good luck, Dave

[I972Nova]

I was having a similar problem with my Nova. I went to a 16 volt battery and ford style remote solenoid. It spins the motor over better now than it did before with the plugs out!

[hammertime]

My guess
1. Ground issues, take a 4 gauge wire and ground it from the block to the frame. Take a 10gauge wire run it from the head to the battery.
2. Weaker Battery, check the voltage out put and if its not 12.65 toss it for a new one

[zipper06]

I'd opt. for a minnie gear drive starter 3.5 HP's can be had for a little over $100.00, also as Josh and David said use a ford solnoid and good grounding.
Be careful if you go to 16 Volts, make sure your delay box is setup for 16 volts. Some biondo delay boxes are 12 volt only.
Also on starting get the engine spinning then flip on the ignition switch, if you have the distributor locked in.

JMO

Zip.

[DRTRCR22]

Circle track racing EATS starters like cookies in preschool. One day I added up all the receipts I had spent for stock type starters and those $100 gear reduction starters in just one season, and I freaked out! I tore down every bad starter under the bench and found one $100 starter had PLASTIC gears in it! Another had pot-metal gears! All of them had cheap brush housings and small gauge wiring. Even the heavy duty GM454 truck starters could not hold up.
I saw the other guys having NO problems with theirs, so I asked them about theirs, and found out they had spent $250 to $300 on really good racing starters like PowerMaster, CSR and CVR. I also learned that ALL of them had been using the same starter for four or more years without a rpblem!
I broke down and bought a PowerMaster for about $250, and have had NO problems at all for the past two seasons, no matter how hot or how long I crank on it after a spinout stall. It will be going right back in my modified again this season. I will NEVER EVER buy another cheapo stock type starter for any race car engine... it's just not worth it, and the security of knowing I have a reliable starter is priceless when you are sitting at lineup and it is your time to shine...!

Jim

[chevyfireball]

If you have an MSD you should be able to set the start-up timing to make it spin over real easy.

Check the battery voltage too.

[chpseat987]

this is great stuff, Thank you, I started runing the engine over then flippen the ign switch it semed to be alot esier on it, but when the heat gets to it its all over, like I said I can count 3 second rounds, and 2 third rounds I missed last season for this dam starter, I got to talking with Mike knowles with Why Not Racing "Pro Mod"... they told me to go with the MSD starter and I will never have to think about it again, has anyone ran this starter?

[hammertime]

this is great stuff, Thank you, I started runing the engine over then flippen the ign switch it semed to be alot esier on it, but when the heat gets to it its all over, like I said I can count 3 second rounds, and 2 third rounds I missed last season for this dam starter, I got to talking with Mike knowles with Why Not Racing "Pro Mod"... they told me to go with the MSD starter and I will never have to think about it again, has anyone ran this starter?

Yes its better then a tilton but still not the best Ive ran. Find a local alt/starter shop and go chat withi them, most can get a good starter for far less money. He should be able to get you a high tq starte for around 130.00 and it'll work great

[cam67152]

I was researching starters last year, thought about MSD but found that on MSD's website a lot of complaints, I went with a powermaster good to 18:1 (so they claim). good so far.
cam67152

[chevyfireball]

I switched from a Tilton to an MSD in my Camaro. I broke the MSD pretty quick. I think the Tilton was better.

[supergass]

My guess
1. Ground issues, take a 4 gauge wire and ground it from the block to the frame. Take a 10gauge wire run it from the head to the battery.
2. Weaker Battery, check the voltage out put and if its not 12.65 toss it for a new one

I agree with hammer, grounds are so important, also making sure you have copper cable instead of copper clad aluminum helps. Overkill in the size of the cable never hurts. I have also never seen a single battery in a bracket car do very well (overall) when cooling and running the car for several rounds. Even with a alternator it can work it past its limits. I use two batteries always and run a ground from the battery to the back of the block and I have had good success even with the Hi torque GM starters. Of course they are built by a local who cares what he puts in them too! No Auto Zone stuff here lol.