PDA

View Full Version : 3/8 dirt track SBC Engine


dalematney
10-13-2009, 12:19 PM
Need advice from start to finish on this build. 76 Camaro is ready to go, now I need to build this SBC engine. I want to be competitive for my first year but I do not want to break the piggy bank. Can you tell me which block I need to start out with. Is a 70s to 80s 350 four bolt main just as good as a LT1 or Vortec block? I will need all the information that you can give me. Listed below is the rules for the street stock class.

1. 362 cubic inch MAXIMUM.
2. Stock production case iron heads only. No porting or polishing.
3. Stock rocker arms only. No roller tip or roller rocker arms.
4. Screw-in studs and guide plates allowed.
5. After market camshafts are allowed. No rollers.
6. Must pull 15 inches of vacuum at 1000 RPM’s. Vacuum to be pulled
from base of carburetor or intake. Top three (3) cars will be checked
after Feature Race. 12 Volt hookup for track tack required. Al engines
must be turned off after vacuum test.
7. Flat top or dished pistons only. Two valve relief piston allowed.
8. Stock rods. (Example: Chevy 350 5.7 only. After market rod bolts
okay).
9. Stock aftermarket crank OK (No cutting).
10. Stock HEI or point distributor. No supercoils or magnetos or MSD.
11. Cast iron intake only. 2 or 4 barrel okay. No polishing!
12. Carburetor’s spacer NOT EXCEDDING 2 inch IN HEIGHT.
13. Mechanical fuel pump in stock location. Stock manual fuel pump. No
electric or belt driven pumps.
14. Headers or exhaust manifolds allowed. No 180 degree headers.
15. Carburetor can be NO larger than Holley 500 CFM 2 barrel and must
pass inspection from top side with gauge. (Must be stock venture 1 3/8
inch). Choke horn may be removed.

My email address is [email protected] and I do thank you very much for any and all help.

bbchevy
10-13-2009, 05:05 PM
Heres Exactally what you Need for Heads and Intake,AD#1681660.
The Stuffs NOT Mine!
But,TRUST ME?There S#!T WORKS!
Later
G 8)

dalematney
10-14-2009, 12:26 PM
Anybody here run dirt track? Anyone willing to help. This is the same response that I got while I was hanging out at the track. "No one would talk". Anyways, thanks for your all time.

zipper06
10-14-2009, 03:05 PM
I don't run a dirt track car, but have some ideas that may work. first the best chevy iron heads are the 441's and 492's casting but are a little had to find. Below is an article by the late John Linderfelter on those heads. Second, run the 4 barrel manifold with an adapter to a 500CFM 2 barrel holly carb, they work well. I'm not sure how much cam you can run and still pull 15" of vacuum, but i'm sure you'll have to have around 110/112 lobe ctr's. If you can find a stock steel crank use it, otherwise buy the cast steel after market crank, and what ever you do be sure to replace the stock rod bolts with good ARP bolts, use the 2 valve relief pistons and mill as much off the heads as you can to get the compression up. The 461 and the 492 heads are 64 CC's, put 2.020 intakes with 3 angle valve job. You could easily get 400 HP from this combo.Also use the 1.6 long slot rockers.

JMO

Zip.

http://books.google.com/books?id=GUC52-afG5EC&pg=PA72&lpg=PA72&dq=best+chevy+cast+iron+heads&source=bl&ots=HZ2REoiH1y&sig=xL3zZCvfIm-iiSm_3wZr3qd0CFU&hl=en&ei=kFHWSrjlF-OJtgf885mZDA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CBgQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&q=best%20chevy%20cast%20iron%20heads&f=false

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Steel-Long-Slot-Rocker-Arms-Chevy-sb-sbc-1-6-7-16-Stud_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c091bfa10QQitemZ1 20411912720QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcc essories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-Solid-Cam-Lifters-Small-Block-Chevy-IMCA-Modifieds_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2ea7a91576QQi temZ200381371766QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ 5fAccessories

dalematney
10-14-2009, 03:46 PM
Thank you very much for that information. I knew that there was still good people out here. I am ready to buy the block right now but I really dont know which is better. If you had to pick a 350 block what would it be and why. I hear alot about the LT1, Vortec and and older 4 boltmain from the 70s and 80s. Again, thanks.

bbchevy
10-14-2009, 04:16 PM
Any 010 Block is FINE for what you want!!
I ran the Dirt for 5 Seasons,SUPER STREET.
Later
G 8)

dalematney
10-14-2009, 04:26 PM
Thank you very much. Do I need to have it decked? If so, how much. Thank you.

dalematney
10-14-2009, 04:28 PM
I have a chance to buy a 350 4 bolt main with the number 10066036
Its a crate block for $100.00 Is that of good price and will that block be good for what I want? Thank you.

zipper06
10-14-2009, 07:04 PM
I think that block will work o'k but the block that BBChevy was speaking of -010, has a casting # 3970010, that's the mid 70's, early 80's high nickle blk.

Zip.

dalematney
10-15-2009, 03:49 AM
Thanks for that information. I will find one of them. I hope.

dalematney
10-16-2009, 04:28 PM
Anyone else want to donate some information? Thanks

lookingaround
10-17-2009, 03:09 AM
if you can find a cast Bowtie intake they work real good for what you need.

bjuice
10-17-2009, 08:01 AM
IF YOU WANT TO GET SERIOUS go and Buy yourself a NEW 350ci GM Circle track Limited Late Model Engine for $4,700.

Get a Good Local Dirt Chassis set up man with experience and learn how to drive that thang and you will have more than enough engine to take care of them



http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance/809/88958603/10002/-1&parentProductId=752398

bjuice
10-17-2009, 08:19 AM
since its your 1st year and you are gonna be realistic and just get valuable seat time ...i would seriously think about the base line GM crate engine for $1500.00..with their cam its rated 260hp and 350ft lbs of TQ at 3500 rpm...you could always put another cam shaft to find a little more Bottom end...work the bowls on the heads,angle mill them for a little more Compression, little intake work...and you could have a decent NEW engine for under $2500. by the time you add your carb, intake,HEI dist...you may end up with an engine making 400ft lbs of Tq...

By the time you go trying to Piece an engine together you gonna have more then $2500 in it anyway..don't believe me...go try it


thats the route i would consider if it were me anyhow..


http://www.jegs.com/p/GM-Performance/GM-Goodwrench-1970-85-350-Engine-Packages/752506/10002/-1

dalematney
10-17-2009, 10:21 AM
Thank you bjuice. Thats was the information that I was looking for. you re right, all I want for the first year is get all the seat time in that I can but still run with the best of them. But my goal is to start every race and finish every race. Again, thanks for the info. Have a great weekend.

chevytuff
10-19-2009, 09:31 AM
I run an enduro car back about 10 years on asphalt and dirt, my motor had 010 block .030 over keith black dished pistons, arp main studs,gm steel crank,stock rods w/arp bolts,186 casting gm heads,good gm cast iron intake forgot the number though,z71 intake manifolds,and a modified q-jet. This motor ran like a raped ape 5,900 to 6,200 rpm,s for 2 seasons that equates to around 2,400 laps between 1/4 mile track up to a 1/2 mile track, and was trouble free. Hope this helps.

dalematney
10-22-2009, 03:26 PM
Thanks. It does. Sorry I have not been on here in a few but I just got off the road for a few days. Again, Thank you.

dalematney
10-22-2009, 03:27 PM
Do you know what type of HP and Tourqe you was tunring with that set up?

northcoastchoper
10-27-2009, 04:14 PM
your set up is more important then what you have for power, you can out drive the guys with more power if you can learn to get the car to handle, want some help on set up pm me and I can help you