TIMING ? AGAIN

[JEFF69Z28]

MY DIST.IS LOCKED OUT TIMING IS AT 34*,YESTERDAY I ADVANCED IT TO 36* AND NOW IT HAS A MISS FROM ABOUT 3000 ON UP WHILE REVING IT IN PARK,MOVED IT BACK TO 34* AND IT SEEMS TO BE FINE.
WITH TIMING AT 34* WHERE WOULD THE ROTOR BUTTON BE POINTING WHEN #1 PISTON WAS AT TDC AND TIMING MARK AT 0.

[OneBadGMC]

MY DIST.IS LOCKED OUT TIMING IS AT 34*,YESTERDAY I ADVANCED IT TO 36* AND NOW IT HAS A MISS FROM ABOUT 3000 ON UP WHILE REVING IT IN PARK,MOVED IT BACK TO 34* AND IT SEEMS TO BE FINE.
WITH TIMING AT 34* WHERE WOULD THE ROTOR BUTTON BE POINTING WHEN #1 PISTON WAS AT TDC AND TIMING MARK AT 0.

Is this a trick question?

It'd be pointing 34 degrees before the #1 plug in the cap.

[JEFF69Z28]

MY DIST.IS LOCKED OUT TIMING IS AT 34*,YESTERDAY I ADVANCED IT TO 36* AND NOW IT HAS A MISS FROM ABOUT 3000 ON UP WHILE REVING IT IN PARK,MOVED IT BACK TO 34* AND IT SEEMS TO BE FINE.
WITH TIMING AT 34* WHERE WOULD THE ROTOR BUTTON BE POINTING WHEN #1 PISTON WAS AT TDC AND TIMING MARK AT 0.

Is this a trick question?

It'd be pointing 34 degrees before the #1 plug in the cap.
DUMB QUESTION I KNOW.\
I CANT GET NO MORE THAN 34* TIMING .IF I LOCK IT DOWN AT 36 IT RUNS ROUGH WHEN I REV IT.IF MY DIST WAS IN 180* OUT WOULD THIS CAUSE THE PROBLEM?

[DirkaDirka]

I dont think you would even have a smooth idle if your dist was 180* out. I had a dist 180* out and had a very rough idle. But that was also on a Jeep Wrangler not a race car so I could be wrong too. JMO

[performanceengin]

are you running crank triger ? if so there is more to it that turning dist.

[itsabird]

I have never seen one get to 3000 rpm, that was 180 out.

[JEFF69Z28]

NO CRANK TRIGGER.
34* IT HAS JUST ALITTLE MISS.UNDER NO LOAD.
36* IT RUNS ROUGH FROM 3000 THRU 5000.UNDER NO LOAD.
I GUESS WHAT IM ASKING IS COULD I HAVE BEEN OF A TOOTH OR SO OFF WHEN I PUT THE DIST.BACK IN AFTER I LOCKED IT OUT?I PUT IT BACK WHERE IT WAS OR I THOUGHT I DID.I WOULD LIKE TO TAKE IT OUT AND REINSTALL IT.TO DO SO WOULD I GET NUMBER 1 TO TDC(0) AND THE MOVE THE BALANCER TO 34* THEN DROP THE DIST BACK IN MAKING SURE THE ROTOR IS POINTING TO THE NUMBER ONE PISTON.

[OneBadGMC]

It doesn't matter where it's pointing, so long as you can get the cap orientated where #1 is #1.

Standard, as I was taught, is to try and point the rotor at #1 when it's on #1.

In reality, the thing can be pointing at #5, so long as #1 is in the #5 position on the cap.

Know what I'm saying???

You've also not given us enough information on the motor. Alky/gas? Compression? Spark Plug Gap? N/A? Nitrous? Blower/Turbo? What ignition system? Mechanical Advance? Vacuum advance?

[JEFF69Z28]

It doesn't matter where it's pointing, so long as you can get the cap orientated where #1 is #1.

Standard, as I was taught, is to try and point the rotor at #1 when it's on #1.

In reality, the thing can be pointing at #5, so long as #1 is in the #5 position on the cap.

Know what I'm saying???

You've also not given us enough information on the motor. Alky/gas? Compression? Spark Plug Gap? N/A? Nitrous? Blower/Turbo? What ignition system? Mechanical Advance? Vacuum advance?GAS MOTOR,11.5 COMP,45 GAP,NO POWER ADDERS,MSD 85551 DIST.MSD BLASTER SS COIL,MSD 6AL2 BOX,DIST.IS LOCKED OUT.

[FullTimeRacing]

is the blancer on the money,if it is a two peice it can slide,just a thought.

or a valve to tight?

[OneBadGMC]

It doesn't matter where it's pointing, so long as you can get the cap orientated where #1 is #1.

Standard, as I was taught, is to try and point the rotor at #1 when it's on #1.

In reality, the thing can be pointing at #5, so long as #1 is in the #5 position on the cap.

Know what I'm saying???

You've also not given us enough information on the motor. Alky/gas? Compression? Spark Plug Gap? N/A? Nitrous? Blower/Turbo? What ignition system? Mechanical Advance? Vacuum advance?GAS MOTOR,11.5 COMP,45 GAP,NO POWER ADDERS,MSD 85551 DIST.MSD BLASTER SS COIL,MSD 6AL2 BOX,DIST.IS LOCKED OUT.

Whats the inside of the cap look like? Is there any carbon tracing inside? Carbon tracing will look like someone took a lead pencil to the cap.

Whats the rotor look like? Is the tip eaten away at all? What about the posts on the inside of the cap? Do they have any grooves in them? Is the spring on the rotor making good contact with the center post on the cap?

It sounds to me like spark is either being cross fired from carbon tracking, or it's not jumping the gap at all due to weak spark.

So, it could be...

Weak Coil
6AL box is firing
Carbon inside the cap
Rotor to cap connection isn't sufficient.

Just speculation though.

[Tod74]

I have mine locked out and I never have to touch the timing once the distributor is in, although I do check it with a light. I put the balancer at exactly 38 deg btdc and put the distributor in with the rotor pointed exactly at the #! plug post...If I need to I turn the oil pump with a screwdriver. It has always been on the money when I start it and put a light on it. This only works with the advance locked out.

[kwkracing]

i think your timings off from what you think it is or theres another issue

[cepx111]

I'd re-gap the plugs to no wider than .032 and try again.
JMO>Cp

[JEFF69Z28]

I'd re-gap the plugs to no wider than .032 and try again.
JMO>CpI THOUGHT OF THAT,BUT MSD SAID 45 TO 50,WHAT WOULD BE THE REASON OF A SMALLER GAP?

[JEFF69Z28]

It doesn't matter where it's pointing, so long as you can get the cap orientated where #1 is #1.

Standard, as I was taught, is to try and point the rotor at #1 when it's on #1.

In reality, the thing can be pointing at #5, so long as #1 is in the #5 position on the cap.

Know what I'm saying???

You've also not given us enough information on the motor. Alky/gas? Compression? Spark Plug Gap? N/A? Nitrous? Blower/Turbo? What ignition system? Mechanical Advance? Vacuum advance?GAS MOTOR,11.5 COMP,45 GAP,NO POWER ADDERS,MSD 85551 DIST.MSD BLASTER SS COIL,MSD 6AL2 BOX,DIST.IS LOCKED OUT.

Whats the inside of the cap look like? Is there any carbon tracing inside? Carbon tracing will look like someone took a lead pencil to the cap.

Whats the rotor look like? Is the tip eaten away at all? What about the posts on the inside of the cap? Do they have any grooves in them? Is the spring on the rotor making good contact with the center post on the cap?

It sounds to me like spark is either being cross fired from carbon tracking, or it's not jumping the gap at all due to weak spark.

So, it could be...

Weak Coil
6AL box is firing
Carbon inside the cap
Rotor to cap connection isn't sufficient.

Just speculation though.I HAVE NEVER THOUGHT OF CHECKING THE CAP AND ROTOR.IT HAS BEEN ON THERE FOR 2 YEARS NOW.

[JEFF69Z28]

is the blancer on the money,if it is a two peice it can slide,just a thought.

or a valve to tight?1 PIECE ATI BALANCER

[johnracer]

A few more ideas if the cap & rotor check out: rotor phasing way off or if you have a bronze dist gear, it may be worn out.........

[Tod74]

I'd re-gap the plugs to no wider than .032 and try again.
JMO>CpI THOUGHT OF THAT,BUT MSD SAID 45 TO 50,WHAT WOULD BE THE REASON OF A SMALLER GAP?

High cylinder pressure can "blow out" the spark if the gap is too large....maybe a poor way of wording it.

[JEFF69Z28]

A few more ideas if the cap & rotor check out: rotor phasing way off or if you have a bronze dist gear, it may be worn out.........GEAR IS NEW, BUT I CHECKED IT WHEN I HAD THE DIST. OUT AND IT LOOKED GOOD.IM GOING TO RACE IT TONIGHT AFTER I INSTALL NEW PLUGS AND CAP&ROTOR.

[JEFF69Z28]

I'd re-gap the plugs to no wider than .032 and try again.
JMO>CpI THOUGHT OF THAT,BUT MSD SAID 45 TO 50,WHAT WOULD BE THE REASON OF A SMALLER GAP?

High cylinder pressure can "blow out" the spark if the gap is too large....maybe a poor way of wording it.WHAT CAUSES HIGH CYLINDER PRESSURE?

[wmeabates]

Jeff,Did you set your timing pointer to your damper using a piston stop? Bill.

[JEFF69Z28]

Jeff,Did you set your timing pointer to your damper using a piston stop? Bill.I did not build the engine,thats something else i read about to see if the timing mark is in the correct spot..how can i do that now that the enginge is together,is there a piston stop that can be inserted in a plug hole.

[desoto30]

Not that I know of But I made one by cutting the guts out of a spark plug & welding a piece of steel in that protruded into the cylinder area thereby not allowing the engine to rotate past the bit sticking in. Obviously you will need to be able to turn the engine over gently so as not to bend it.

[wmeabates]

Yes someone makes a stop that goes in the plug hole.Remove all the spark plugs and it will be easyer to feel the piston hit the stop.Bill.

[desoto30]

& if the engine has any sort of big valve springs I would also back them off also

[Tod74]

I'd re-gap the plugs to no wider than .032 and try again.
JMO>CpI THOUGHT OF THAT,BUT MSD SAID 45 TO 50,WHAT WOULD BE THE REASON OF A SMALLER GAP?

High cylinder pressure can "blow out" the spark if the gap is too large....maybe a poor way of wording it.WHAT CAUSES HIGH CYLINDER PRESSURE?

Higher compression, Nitrous, turbo, blower, cam timing....whatever. That's the whole point. The more air you can pump through the engine the more power it will make..think of an engine as a big air compressor. An engine with 12 to 1 compression has 12 times the amount of air in the cylinder at BDC as it does at TDC..The more air you get into the cylinder on the intake stroke the more cylinder pressure you will have when it's compressed, therefore more power on the power stroke. Again, maybe poor wording because valve timing effects the cylinder pressure too but that's pretty much how I think of it.

[DirkaDirka]

Ok what are things you can do to achieve higher compression ratio??

[markdunlap]

You can use a threaded positive stop in the spark plug hole to find true TDC. BUT BEFORE YOU USE IT, take the rockers off that cylinder or you can bend the valves.
If your balancer is marked in degrees before TDC, screw the positive stop in to stop at 30 degrees. Then measure carefully the distance from zero to 30 degrees and put a mark on the other side of zero at that measurement. Rotate the engine backward slowly till it is against the the positive stop again. If it stops at 30 degrees, your timing pointer is correct. If not, move the pointer until it is equal degrees on both sides of the positive stop.
If you only have a zero mark on your pointer, just pick any measurement around 1 inch and put that on both sides of your zero mark and move your pointer until the measurement is equal on both sides of mark.
Morroso, Manley, MR Gasket, Comp Cams and others make an aluminum threaded positive stop.

[JEFF69Z28]

WHEN THE #1 PISTON WAS AT TDC THE ROTOR IS POINTING AT THE NUMBER 6 CYLINDER AND THE #1 PLUG WIRE IS IN THAT AREA ON THE CAP SHOULD I PUT MY TIMING LIGHT ON THAT WIRE?OR SHOULD I TAKE THE DIST.OUT AND HAVE THE ROTOR POINTING AT NUMBER ONE.BOY AM I CONFUSED!

[OneBadGMC]

WHEN THE #1 PISTON WAS AT TDC THE ROTOR IS POINTING AT THE NUMBER 6 CYLINDER AND THE #1 PLUG WIRE IS IN THAT AREA ON THE CAP SHOULD I PUT MY TIMING LIGHT ON THAT WIRE?OR SHOULD I TAKE THE DIST.OUT AND HAVE THE ROTOR POINTING AT NUMBER ONE.BOY AM I CONFUSED!

As I believe I told you before, it does not matter where the rotor is pointing, so long as when the motor is at TDC on #1 that the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire.

[JEFF69Z28]

WHEN THE #1 PISTON WAS AT TDC THE ROTOR IS POINTING AT THE NUMBER 6 CYLINDER AND THE #1 PLUG WIRE IS IN THAT AREA ON THE CAP SHOULD I PUT MY TIMING LIGHT ON THAT WIRE?OR SHOULD I TAKE THE DIST.OUT AND HAVE THE ROTOR POINTING AT NUMBER ONE.BOY AM I CONFUSED!

As I believe I told you before, it does not matter where the rotor is pointing, so long as when the motor is at TDC on #1 that the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire.I KNOW IT SHOULD BE BUT IT IS NOT,WHEN #1 IS AT TDC THE ROTOR IS POINTING AT THE #6 CYLINDER RIGHT NOW AS I TYPE THIS.I THINK THE GUY THAT BUILT THE MOTOR PUT THE DIST.IN AND MADE WHAT EVER CYLINDER THE ROTOR WAS POINTING AT #1 IS THIS POSSIBLE?

[OneBadGMC]

WHEN THE #1 PISTON WAS AT TDC THE ROTOR IS POINTING AT THE NUMBER 6 CYLINDER AND THE #1 PLUG WIRE IS IN THAT AREA ON THE CAP SHOULD I PUT MY TIMING LIGHT ON THAT WIRE?OR SHOULD I TAKE THE DIST.OUT AND HAVE THE ROTOR POINTING AT NUMBER ONE.BOY AM I CONFUSED!

As I believe I told you before, it does not matter where the rotor is pointing, so long as when the motor is at TDC on #1 that the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire.I KNOW IT SHOULD BE BUT IT IS NOT,WHEN #1 IS AT TDC THE ROTOR IS POINTING AT THE #6 CYLINDER RIGHT NOW AS I TYPE THIS.I THINK THE GUY THAT BUILT THE MOTOR PUT THE DIST.IN AND MADE WHAT EVER CYLINDER THE ROTOR WAS POINTING AT #1 IS THIS POSSIBLE?

Again, as I said before, twice now. Are you reading what I'm typing?

It DOES NOT matter where the rotor points, so long as when the motor is on #1 TDC that the rotor is pointing at #1 in the cap.

If the motor is on #1 TDC and the rotor is pointing at the #6 plug wire in the cap, then yes, it's wrong.

[curtisreed]

Jeff when he says #1 on the cap that is wherever the #1 plug wire is on the cap. Doesn't matter which place on the cap you put the #1 wire as long as the rotor is pointing at it at TDC.

You might have someone give you a call and talk you through it on the phone, could be easier than reading it.

Curtis

[JEFF69Z28]

NOW,WHEN I GET THE MOTOR TO TDC ON #1 I SHOULD ROTATE THE BALANCER TO THE TIMING I WANT WHICH AT FIRST WILL BE 34*BTDC.AND THEN INSTALL THE DIST.SINCE IT IS LOCKED OUT.

[JEFF69Z28]

Jeff when he says #1 on the cap that is wherever the #1 plug wire is on the cap. Doesn't matter which place on the cap you put the #1 wire as long as the rotor is pointing at it at TDC.

You might have someone give you a call and talk you through it on the phone, could be easier than reading it.

CurtisNOW THAT I HAVE CALMED DOWN I CAN SAY THE THE ROTOR IS POINTING AT THE #1 PLUG WIRE ON THE CAP,NOW THEN WHEN I ADD TIMING THE MOTOR RUNS ROUGH WHEN REVING IT WITH NO LOAD ON IT,36*TIMING.COULD THIS BE IGNITION RELATED OR SOMETHING ELSE?SBC MSD 6AL 2,85551 DIST.BLASTER SS COIL.

[JEFF69Z28]

JUST A THOUGHT AM I UNDER CARBED?
406 CID CHEVY
11.5 COMP.
260/264@50
688/678 LIFT SOLID ROLLER
AFR210 ELIMINATOR HEADS 64CC 2.08/1.60, COMP.PORTED.
SUPER VICTOR INTAKE PORT MATCHED
HOLLEY HP WORKED TO FLOW 840 CFM
MSD 6AL 2
MSD 85551 DIST.
MSD BLASTER SS COIL.

[OneBadGMC]

No, you're not under carbed.

Can you make a video and upload it? What you call rough and what I call rough may be two different things.

Some carbs run rough at part throttle. I know you said it was a gas motor, so it's not the typical alky roughness at part throttle. You didn't say, however, whether the motor has power valves in it, or if the power valves are plugged off. If there are no power valves, it will run rough at part throttle.

If, however, you can back off the motor 2 degrees, and the 'roughness' goes away, then you may want to try closing up plug gaps to like .018 (just to try it), then up the timing.

If the roughness still occurs, it's time to start changing out electronic parts until you find the culprit.

It could be:

1. cap, rotor, or both.
2. Old plug wires? Have you checked the resistance in each plug wire with an ohm meter?
3. Coil going bad
4. Points in the dist? If points, have you checked the point gap?
5. 6AL box going bad.
6. Excessive plug gap
7. Bad ground... The coil should be grounded to the battery and heads (both heads) via dedicated leads.

Those are all things off the top of my head that can cause 'roughness' due to ignition issues. This is assuming that there's nothing wrong with the carb.

A simpler thing to try would be changing the carb out...

[JEFF69Z28]

No, you're not under carbed.

Can you make a video and upload it? What you call rough and what I call rough may be two different things.

Some carbs run rough at part throttle. I know you said it was a gas motor, so it's not the typical alky roughness at part throttle. You didn't say, however, whether the motor has power valves in it, or if the power valves are plugged off. If there are no power valves, it will run rough at part throttle.

If, however, you can back off the motor 2 degrees, and the 'roughness' goes away, then you may want to try closing up plug gaps to like .018 (just to try it), then up the timing.

If the roughness still occurs, it's time to start changing out electronic parts until you find the culprit.

It could be:

1. cap, rotor, or both.
2. Old plug wires? Have you checked the resistance in each plug wire with an ohm meter?
3. Coil going bad
4. Points in the dist? If points, have you checked the point gap?
5. 6AL box going bad.
6. Excessive plug gap
7. Bad ground... The coil should be grounded to the battery and heads (both heads) via dedicated leads.

Those are all things off the top of my head that can cause 'roughness' due to ignition issues. This is assuming that there's nothing wrong with the carb.

A simpler thing to try would be changing the carb out...IT IDLES FINE IT MISSES FROM ABOUT 3000 RPM ON UP NO I HAVE NO WAY OF UPLOADING A VIDEO.NEW CAP&ROTOR,NEWPLUGS,NEW PLUG WIRES,NEW MSD 6AL2,BLASTER SS COIL IS A YEAR OLD,GAP IS AT 35.COIL SHOULD BE GROUNDED THE BLASTER SS NEEDS TO BE GROUNED?I JUST HAVE THE BLACK AND ORANGE WIRE FROM THE IGN.BOX HOOKED TO IT.I PUT MY OLD 750 ON IT AND IT STILL HAD THE MISS.
ALSO I WANT TO THANK EVERYONE FOR THEIR TIME AND HELP.MY CAPS LOCK BUTTON IS BROKE ON MY KEYBOARD THAT IS WHY IM TYPING IN CAP'S.

[itsabird]

just a thought, is the coil mounted close to anything where spark jump, could be an issue?

[JEFF69Z28]

just a thought, is the coil mounted close to anything where spark jump, could be an issue?no its moubted on the fire wall by itself.

[FullTimeRacing]

is the coil mounted stright up or leaning on it's side?

I had a blaster 2 on the side and my car was a dog

moved it stright up and was fine.

[OneBadGMC]

No, you're not under carbed.

Can you make a video and upload it? What you call rough and what I call rough may be two different things.

Some carbs run rough at part throttle. I know you said it was a gas motor, so it's not the typical alky roughness at part throttle. You didn't say, however, whether the motor has power valves in it, or if the power valves are plugged off. If there are no power valves, it will run rough at part throttle.

If, however, you can back off the motor 2 degrees, and the 'roughness' goes away, then you may want to try closing up plug gaps to like .018 (just to try it), then up the timing.

If the roughness still occurs, it's time to start changing out electronic parts until you find the culprit.

It could be:

1. cap, rotor, or both.
2. Old plug wires? Have you checked the resistance in each plug wire with an ohm meter?
3. Coil going bad
4. Points in the dist? If points, have you checked the point gap?
5. 6AL box going bad.
6. Excessive plug gap
7. Bad ground... The coil should be grounded to the battery and heads (both heads) via dedicated leads.

Those are all things off the top of my head that can cause 'roughness' due to ignition issues. This is assuming that there's nothing wrong with the carb.

A simpler thing to try would be changing the carb out...IT IDLES FINE IT MISSES FROM ABOUT 3000 RPM ON UP NO I HAVE NO WAY OF UPLOADING A VIDEO.NEW CAP&ROTOR,NEWPLUGS,NEW PLUG WIRES,NEW MSD 6AL2,BLASTER SS COIL IS A YEAR OLD,GAP IS AT 35.COIL SHOULD BE GROUNDED THE BLASTER SS NEEDS TO BE GROUNED?I JUST HAVE THE BLACK AND ORANGE WIRE FROM THE IGN.BOX HOOKED TO IT.I PUT MY OLD 750 ON IT AND IT STILL HAD THE MISS.
ALSO I WANT TO THANK EVERYONE FOR THEIR TIME AND HELP.MY CAPS LOCK BUTTON IS BROKE ON MY KEYBOARD THAT IS WHY IM TYPING IN CAP'S.

What happens when you take it out in front of the house and nail the throttle? Is it still missing, or does it sound good at wide open?

[JEFF69Z28]

IT CLEANS UP WHEN IT LAUNCHES AT THE TRACK THEN STARTS MISSING RIGHT BEFORE I SHIFT INTO 2ND GEAR CLEANS UP AGAIN THEN MISSES RIGHT BEFORE I SHIFT INTO 3RD GEAR THEN MISSES UNTIL I LET OFF THE GAS AT THE END OF THE 1/4 MILE,I HAVE THE LOW REV SET AT 7500 AND THE HIGH REV SET AT 7500 ON THE 6AL2 BOX,I DONT USE THE LOW REV OPTION AT ALL,IM SHIFTING AT 7000 RPM,CAR RAN 10.55,56&60.

[JEFF69Z28]

is the coil mounted stright up or leaning on it's side?

I had a blaster 2 on the side and my car was a dog

moved it stright up and was fine.I HAVE THE SS COIL I DONT THINK IT MATTERS WHAT POSITION YOU MOUNT IT.

[FullTimeRacing]

you may need to swap dist. box. coil,with known good parts 1 at a time from a friend or something

or bring it to a preformance ignition place to have it checked

if it checks out good you'll need to look in other places

don't get stuck in one problem. valve float may sound the same.

pull on all the wires tite'en up lose stuff.

try shiffing at 6800 or 6500 to see if it runs through

[Tod74]

I didn't read every post but are the valve springs good?

[BEAST477]

I didn't read every post but are the valve springs good?
Just what I was thinking. Springs could be weak since you said it starts missing just before you shift then it's fine till you get close to 7,000rpm. That's a pretty healthy cam for a small block.

[JEFF69Z28]

I didn't read every post but are the valve springs good?HEADS AND SPRINGS ARE BRAND NEW.

[OneBadGMC]

New doesn't matter too much if they are the wrong springs. What exact spring brand/part number is in it?

If the springs wind up being correct, then as said before, you're gonna have to either take it somewhere to be checked, or start swapping out parts one at a time until you find the culprit.

[cepx111]

What brand spark plug(s) and what's heat range?
Cp

[JEFF69Z28]

New doesn't matter too much if they are the wrong springs. What exact spring brand/part number is in it?

If the springs wind up being correct, then as said before, you're gonna have to either take it somewhere to be checked, or start swapping out parts one at a time until you find the culprit.THE HEADS WHERE SET UP BY AFR TO MATCH THE CAM THAT THEY CALLED COMP CAMS AND TOLD THEM GRIND TO THERE SPECS TO MATCH THE REST OF THE MOTOR.I DONT THINK ITS VALVE FLOAT BECAUSE IT HASNT DID THIS THE LAST 20 OR SO PASSES.LAST NIGHT I GOT TO THINKING AND THIS CAME TO MIND,WHEN THE 6AL2 IS BOLTED TO ITS MOUNT THERE IS A STICKER THAT HAS THE REV LIMIT RPM RANGE FOR LOW&HIGH ON IT AND IT IS UPSIDE DOWN.I WONDER IF I COULD BE SETTING IT TO 3700 INSTEAD OF 7300.I COULD BE WRONG BUT I SHALL CHECK THIS OUT WHEN I GET HOME TODAY AND LET YOU KNOW THE RESULTS.

[Tod74]

You could have a spring broken. Mine did what you say yours is doing and it had less than 30 passes on some Manley springs I pulled the stud girdle and found one spring had the inner spring broken. Impossible to see without really looking. Just a thought.

[ashbros]

Any strange noises while the engine is at idle?

[JEFF69Z28]

Any strange noises while the engine is at idle?I HEARD A TAPPING NOISE THE OTHER DAY,BUT IT SOUNDS LIKE A HEADER LEAK AT THE HEAD.

[JEFF69Z28]

You could have a spring broken. Mine did what you say yours is doing and it had less than 30 passes on some Manley springs I pulled the stud girdle and found one spring had the inner spring broken. Impossible to see without really looking. Just a thought.I WILL PULL THE STUD GIRDLES OFF TONIGHT AND LOOK VERY CLOSE TO SEE IF I CAN SEE A BROKEN SPRING.IS THERE ANY OTHER WAY TO TELL IF ONE IS BROKEN OTHER THAN BY SIGHT?
AS OF NOW IM INSTALLING MY OLD 6AL BOX AND MAKING SURE THE MAG PICKUP WIRES ARE AWAY FROM OTHER WIRES THAT CARRIES 12 VOLTS.LUCKLY I HAVE SOME FRIENDS WITH THE STUFF I HAVE SO I CAN SWAP OUT PARTS TO SEE IF THEY ARE BAD.

[Tod74]

If it's broke you will see it when the girdle is off. I was looking for electrical problems too when mine did it.I found a small chunk of metal laying in the head, that's when I took the girdle off and looked at the springs. Mine would do fine free reving and in the burnout box but would start cut out about 6500 rpm going down the track.

[ashbros]

Might have a broken push rod. If you are using a stock type push rod I have seen the small round ball on the top or bottom of the rod sheer off.

[JEFF69Z28]

Might have a broken push rod. If you are using a stock type push rod I have seen the small round ball on the top or bottom of the rod sheer off.IF THE BOTTOM CAME OFF DOES THAT MEAN ENGINE DISASSEMBLY?

[OneBadGMC]

Guys, lets get back to the symptoms.

He said at 34 degrees, there was no issue. At 36 degrees, a miss occurs.

A broken spring, pushrod, rocker isn't going to cause a miss with a change of 2 degrees of timing. A broken part will cause an issue at all times, no matter the timing change.

[Tod74]

Guys, lets get back to the symptoms.

He said at 34 degrees, there was no issue. At 36 degrees, a miss occurs.

A broken spring, pushrod, rocker isn't going to cause a miss with a change of 2 degrees of timing. A broken part will cause an issue at all times, no matter the timing change.

good point.

[FullTimeRacing]

NO CRANK TRIGGER.
34* IT HAS JUST ALITTLE MISS.UNDER NO LOAD.
36* IT RUNS ROUGH FROM 3000 THRU 5000.UNDER NO LOAD.
I GUESS WHAT IM ASKING IS COULD I HAVE BEEN OF A TOOTH OR SO OFF WHEN I PUT THE DIST.BACK IN AFTER I LOCKED IT OUT?I PUT IT BACK WHERE IT WAS OR I THOUGHT I DID.I WOULD LIKE TO TAKE IT OUT AND REINSTALL IT.TO DO SO WOULD I GET NUMBER 1 TO TDC(0) AND THE MOVE THE BALANCER TO 34* THEN DROP THE DIST BACK IN MAKING SURE THE ROTOR IS POINTING TO THE NUMBER ONE PISTON.

he says here that it has a little miss @ 34*....just saying

[OneBadGMC]

The point being, a miss due to a broken piece of the valve train is typically going to be RPM dependent, and won't change with ignition timing.

[FullTimeRacing]

without looking at the car, you, are myself are just giving best guess.

the video of it running you ask for would help.

I'm thinking a crank trigger would solve the problem ,but that is me.JMO

[OneBadGMC]

without looking at the car, you, are myself are just giving best guess.

the video of it running you ask for would help.

I'm thinking a crank trigger would solve the problem ,but that is me.JMO

I agree on the video.. Without a video, his best thing to do is just start R&R'ing parts until he finds the faulty one.

[JEFF69Z28]

SHOULD I HAVE 2 BATERRIES ONE TO START THE CAR AND ONE FOR ACESSORS,RIGHT NOW I HAVE 1 BATTERY TO DO EVERYTHING,START CAR,RUN DUAL FANS,WATERPUMP AND IGNITION AND I HAVE A 100 AMP POWERMASTER ALTERNATOR CHARGING THE BATTERY.

[oldandtired]

SHOULD I HAVE 2 BATERRIES ONE TO START THE CAR AND ONE FOR ACESSORS,RIGHT NOW I HAVE 1 BATTERY TO DO EVERYTHING,START CAR,RUN DUAL FANS,WATERPUMP AND IGNITION AND I HAVE A 100 AMP POWERMASTER ALTERNATOR CHARGING THE BATTERY.
That is plenty. Dave

[JEFF69Z28]

TOOK OUT 6AL2 AND PUT 6AL BACK IN AND IT REVS ALOT CLEANER NOW,NEXT IM GOING TO CHECK THE ROTOR PHASE.

[JEFF69Z28]

went to track car had a stumble on launch started messing with jets stumble started to go away 60' went from 1.52 to 1.47 then ran out of time.one thing i didnt understand was when my 60'dropped my mph also dropped why is that?

[wmeabates]

What did you change in the jeting to improve the 60 ft? Give some info about the carb.Bill.

[dparker]

Jeff your not at tdc.....one time the piston is at the top the rotor will point at number 6 the next time the piston comes up to the top the rotor will be pointing at number1....thats because the cam turns 2 times for every turn of the crank.....

[suicidebomb]

dparker, I'm not trying to start a controversy, but the cam turns over once, for every two turns of the crank.

Where ya been, did you bring a note from your doctor? :)

[JEFF69Z28]

What did you change in the jeting to improve the 60 ft? Give some info about the carb.Bill.PUT 82 IN FRONT,HAVE 86 IN REAR, HAD 76 IN FRONT.CARB IS PRO SYSTEMS.950 HP BODY AND WORKED TO FLOW 840 CFM..AS OF FRIDAY THEY TOLD ME TO REMOVE FRONT POWER VALVE AND PLUG IT ,REAR IS PLUGGED,THEN PUT 90 JETS IN FRONT AND BACK,MAKE A PASS AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.WILL TEST IT THIS WEEKEND.THIS COMPANY(PRO SYSTEMS)IS A WONDERFUL COMPANY,THEY EVEN AFTER AFTER HOURS NUMBER SO YOU CAN CALL THEM WHILE YOU ARE AT THE TRACK SO THEY CAN HELP.

[wmeabates]

Jeff,Let us know how you do with the help from Pro System.It's good to hear about someone helping with the parts they sell.Bill.

[dparker]

dparker, I'm not trying to start a controversy, but the cam turns over once, for every two turns of the crank.

Where ya been, did you bring a note from your doctor? :)

guess I need one.....trying to type to fast sometimes my brain is a sentence ahead of my typing......
I still think the reason that the rotor is pointing at 6 when he's on TDC on the harmonic balancer, is that the piston is on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke....lol

[JEFF69Z28]

dparker, I'm not trying to start a controversy, but the cam turns over once, for every two turns of the crank.

Where ya been, did you bring a note from your doctor? :)

guess I need one.....trying to type to fast sometimes my brain is a sentence ahead of my typing......
I still think the reason that the rotor is pointing at 6 when he's on TDC on the harmonic balancer, is that the piston is on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke....lolMY REV PROBLEM WENT AWAY WHEN I PUT THE OLD 6AL BOX IN ,NOW I HAVE A LEAN STUNBLE WHEN I MASH THE GAS,ATLEAST THATS WHAT MY CARB GUY THINKS I AM GOING TO YTRY HIS SUGGESTIONS THIS WEEKEND.

[cepx111]

What did you change in the jeting to improve the 60 ft? Give some info about the carb.Bill.PUT 82 IN FRONT,HAVE 86 IN REAR, HAD 76 IN FRONT.CARB IS PRO SYSTEMS.950 HP BODY AND WORKED TO FLOW 840 CFM..AS OF FRIDAY THEY TOLD ME TO REMOVE FRONT POWER VALVE AND PLUG IT ,REAR IS PLUGGED,THEN PUT 90 JETS IN FRONT AND BACK,MAKE A PASS AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.WILL TEST IT THIS WEEKEND.THIS COMPANY(PRO SYSTEMS)IS A WONDERFUL COMPANY,THEY EVEN AFTER AFTER HOURS NUMBER SO YOU CAN CALL THEM WHILE YOU ARE AT THE TRACK SO THEY CAN HELP.


"950 HP body worked to flow 840" > Huh?

90 square sounds awefully big on the jets, I run a 1050 dominator on my 496 BBC and that's what I run.

If your having an off idle stumble make sure and check your acellerator pumps, you need a good squirt as soon as you crack the throttle.
That would be the first place I'd look before I started yanking jets and plugging power valvesand stuff even though I plug my power valves, just dont get ahead of yourself, you might cause another problem before you fix the original one.
Trust me on this one >Do one thing at a time and put back what DOES NOT fix the problem.
Be prepared when you go to the track to make several adjustments, bring plenty of tools, spare carb parts and it wouldnt hurt to have a resisdent guru handy for assistance and play with it till you get it right.
Goodluck, Cp




JMO>Cp

[JEFF69Z28]

90'S WERE TO MUCH BUT THE STUNBLE WENT AWAY SO I GUESS IT WAS MY CARB,PUT IN 88'S PLUGS WERENT TO BAD BUT CAR RAN GREAT PULLING THE FRONT WHEEL'S OFF THE GROUND AND LOW 10'S ALL NIGHT.MONDAY IM GOING TO CHANGE THE PLUGS AND GO DOWN A JET SIZE AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.NOW I NEED TO FIND AWAY TO KEEP THE FRONT END DOWN.

[OneBadGMC]

Cepx...

Yeah, the 950HP carbs only flow about 810 CFM from Holley...

It's not commonly known, but yes, you get more factory flow from a 850 Double Pumper than a 950HP.