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chevyart
06-05-2009, 06:49 PM
i have to relocate the oil filter on my SBC vega up to the radiator support area(no other room closer) and i have been told by some that it is not good and may affect my oil pressure and or flow (volume) is this true in any way or is it just a unsubstantiated opinion.. the relocation lines are 4 feet. any info is appreciated thanks chevy art

suicidebomb
06-06-2009, 01:11 AM
I put a remote filter and cooler on mine at one time. Made no difference in pressure, couldn't say about flow tho, never checked it.

oldandtired
06-06-2009, 05:08 AM
Try to use straight or 45 degree fittings. The 90's will hinder flow.

Good luck, Dave

cubed
06-06-2009, 06:52 AM
i put one on a v8 vega wagon cause i had to drop header to change filter.it still carried 70lbs. i used half inch hose. go for it.

dparker
06-06-2009, 09:57 AM
i have to relocate the oil filter on my SBC vega up to the radiator support area(no other room closer) and i have been told by some that it is not good and may affect my oil pressure and or flow (volume) is this true in any way or is it just a unsubstantiated opinion.. the relocation lines are 4 feet. any info is appreciated thanks chevy art

Hey are we going to get to see a 10 second pass out of that Vega this weekend? I have an alcohol carb that will get you in the 10s if you need. You putting that bigger engine in your Vega probably gonna cost alot of these other guys alot of money to speed there N/E cars up. Did that high temp wrap work on those oil lines?
take care and good luck this weekend,

desoto30
06-06-2009, 12:42 PM
FWIW as far as I am able to see, opinion on (braided) hose size as not to be a problem seems to be -10 I can't say for sure maybe an expert can confirm or refute this.

bbchevy
06-06-2009, 12:59 PM
FWIW as far as I am able to see, opinion on (braided) hose size as not to be a problem seems to be -10 I can't say for sure maybe an expert can confirm or refute this.

1/2 = -10 and if you use -10 that is Fine!
As far as Flow,i have used -10 but Normally -12 for Oil lines.Dont worry about anyone telling you that they will have a FLOW Problem!
Use a Flowed 90,45 or whatever you NEED to get the Job done?
I have even used 120's,150's and 180's,NO ISSUES!!!
Later
G 8)

TopspeedLowet
06-06-2009, 01:57 PM
I would never relocate the filter with lines of any size over 3'. The biggest reason is the entire system of lines and filter drain back to the engine and has to refill upon restarts which causes the engine to go without lube until the lines and filter refill. The check in the filter helps but will not eliminate the issue unless the filter and lines are mounted below the oil level in the pan similar to the stock elevation or below. Cranking the engine prior to fire up after sitting for a day or so may be advisable with your long line set up. Your oil pressure guage may tell the story after an oil change as to how long it takes to get pressure. In dry sump systems, we have to crank the engine to re prime the supply tank due to drain back of the tank to the engine oil pan that occures due to gravity draining. Your long lines may have a similar need to be re primed to give the engine oil pressure quickly at fire up. In a dry sump system the oil pump is forward the engine pumping oil rearward with the direction of G force and single supply line to the filter. In your stock oil system the oil pump is in the rear pumping oil forward against acceleration to your filter near the radiator! If these are not enough reason's not to run long lines, then remember that G forces act on the oil in the lines just like it does your fuel lines fighting to feed the engine up front. Oil pressure will stall for a moment in both lines under high G launches just like a rear mounted fuel system is known to. This is not a condition that is worth gambling with long oil lines going north and south in the engine compartment in my opinion. Shorter lines going East and West are preferred to connect oil lines from the block to the filter to eliminate G forces from influencing the pressure with acceleration.
Things to think about
Bruce

chevyart
06-06-2009, 07:12 PM
hey topspeedlowet(bruce) hey bruce thanks for that post. i can relate to everything you saidi will look into routing a short line under the engine at front of tranny and try and mount the filter on firewall where the heater blower used to be(thats an east-west direction) and maybe only 2-21/2 feet length of hose. did you say to try and get filter higher or lower than oil pan, or better said, where should i try and mount the filter(heigth-wise). i will not proceed with this job until i fully try and do what you suggested. it makes total sense. any other pointers would really be appreciated thanks again chevy art

TopspeedLowet
06-07-2009, 02:26 AM
As for the height of the filter, try to mount it at least as low as the stock pad on the block would have had it. The only restriction you have is the ground clearance of your car. I would try to be sure that both lines run slightly down hill to the filter from the block and that the filter is mounted vertical to negate drain back. The flywheel or flexplate is near the firewall mounting location so caution should be used when looking at the routing of the lines and filter in case of a flexplate failure. I do not recommend using hydraulic lines from your parts store for this job. The ID of these high pressure (3500psi) lines are very restrictive and have problems of there own due to there lack of flexability and smaller ID. #10 or #12 line like aeroquip or russell makes is well suited for this job, and will not present new problems with your install and will last as long as you care to use them. I hope this recommendation makes your decision easier on how you mount your filter housing.
Bruce

dparker
06-07-2009, 07:14 AM
Hey Bruce don't help this guy to much, he's already won the track championship in N/E 2 of the last 3 years.
Changing the subject alittle, have you gotten your car in the 7.40s yet?

TopspeedLowet
06-07-2009, 07:18 AM
Well, I hope to see the 7.40? killer ET time slip this coming saturday. BEAST is coming to our northern playground on the 13th. We are looking at a mid 70 temps on the extended forcasts for now.
PS. Sorry Dean, I didn't mean to help enable your competition. :lol:
I hate to see a racer needlessly wreck there stuff though.
Bruce

dparker
06-07-2009, 07:32 AM
No he runs N/E, and is a great guy, and married to a lady even nicer than he is. I was just giving him a hard time. I glad he's running in N/E not in Electronics. He's just one of those guys that quitely goes to the next run everytime. He shaking everybodies hand wishing them good luck, I'm thinking thats his game plan be super nice and no one has that killer instinct to out run you. lol. Heck win I lose the other racer gets standing ovation.

gearhead1011
06-07-2009, 09:03 AM
1/2 = -10

With braided hose the - number indicates the size in sixteenths of an inch. - 8 is 8/16 or simplified 1/2 inch. -10 is 10/16 or 5/8.
-8 = 1/2 ID. -10 = 5/8 ID

oldandtired
06-08-2009, 06:49 AM
This post is full of excellent information. However, it's about oil, not NOS, not fuel, not water. The viscosity of oil is heaver than all of the above. Fittings do indeed create flow problems.

Two purposes of oil:
1. Create seperation between two parts
2. Transfer temperature away from metal

Fittings-
-8 45 degree ell has the resistance of 8 feet of straight line
-8 90 long radius ell has the resistance of 10 feet of straight line
-8 90 std radius ell has the resistance of 15 feet of straight line
-8 180 ell has the resistance of 25 feet of straight line

If you have ever seen the oil schematic of an engine, you would wonder how the oil can even do its job. The pressure path is unbelieveably complex. Oil restricters, additional side plumbing on the side of the block (force feeds every main bearing), polishing and blending any passages and the use of accumilaters are insurance for the life span of your engine.
Too little pressure and you have failure. Too much pressure and you have failure.

Phew, sorry! I'll go back to bed now....

Dave

bbchevy
06-08-2009, 08:12 AM
1/2 = -10

With braided hose the - number indicates the size in sixteenths of an inch. - 8 is 8/16 or simplified 1/2 inch. -10 is 10/16 or 5/8.
-8 = 1/2 ID. -10 = 5/8 ID
SORRY,for the MISTAKE!
That Makes 2-in the Last 25 Years.LOL
Later
G 8)
And,i Fully Understand the Flow Deal on the Fittings!But,most of my Lines are shorter than 18"s.

oldandtired
06-08-2009, 08:15 AM
BBchevy - you are toast for the rest of the year. The mistake police are watching!!

:lol:

bbchevy
06-08-2009, 09:05 AM
BBchevy - you are toast for the rest of the year. The mistake police are watching!!

:lol:

Well HOPEFULLY when they come to get me?They Bring the Wheels i NEED!!!
Later
G 8)

Scooterz
06-08-2009, 10:56 AM
Well....

I have all 8AN w/ two 90's from the filter on block to front of the car under drivers side by radiator remote (It is BBC solid lifter) on , a 69 Camaro. This works well; but this car has only seen street at this time. 75+ psi @ start up, 20+ @ operating temp. I get pressure quick upon immediate ign. I had the filter on block, but it sooo close to Hookers that it got really hot & was hard to change too. I put on a single remote, seems all good so far... I hope I did this OK. I am still learning though. My motor is not as wild as some of the others here too. What i do not know yet is how it will operate at high RPM 1/4 mile runs yet. So far so good. Scooter

chevyart
06-09-2009, 09:50 PM
hey scooter iwanted to mount mine the exact same place, but topspeed lowet (bruce) has some really valid points NOT to put it in that location. let us know how yours works out under acceleration and on cold starts thanks chevy art

Scooterz
06-10-2009, 04:10 PM
I will Art. So far oil pressure is immediate almost upon a few cranks... my heads have alot of work too. Oil flow seems great upon start up. It is @ 7000RPM for sustained peroids that makes me worry now... which I simply have not tested yet. I hate doubt when I get finished w/ a job... this is my fault for not asking. I will let you know. Scooter