View Full Version : 406sbc motor: Block #3951511
Just bought a 9:1 motor #1511 block, 406, 4-bolt, with 3 freeze plugs. Bought from Richard Willis in Hennepin, OK. Super guy. Question: What head gasket thickness should I use to bump the compression a little? I am not sure what gasket is on motor now. Also, for a street motor, what type should I use: mls, copper, etc? Thanks, Richard!!!
zipper06
02-08-2009, 08:57 PM
Don't know that you could bump the compression much with the gasket, but Felpro 1003 is a .041 tk with wire ring @ bore size 4.166, and the 1010 is a copper wire ring @.039, that the 2 most commonly used on the 406" engine with compression up too 12.5, you don't need MLS, or copper for the 9 to 1 engine unless it's turbo or supercharged.
JMO
Zip.
rabiddawg
02-12-2009, 03:25 PM
careful what you do that 4 bolt block is the weakest of the 400 blocks.
at least girdle the mains which could help.
bjuice
02-12-2009, 04:10 PM
i have owned three 406 ci....1st one made 611hp 11:1 Compression
2nd one 13:1 compresison pair of 750's..made 700 hp range.. ( pushing it but no issues)
3rd one and still own it..460hp...10:1 static compression...fixing to put a 142 b&m blower on it at 5/6 lbs of boost and run some 110 octane..looking for 550hp maybe a tad more ( street driven)
as rabiddawg said the webbin is weak in these 400 blocks...i personally would not recommend over 600hp range without hardblocking it..otherwise i would run it and not worry at all.
I am only running this on the street. Will only be pushing 400- 425 hp. What is the cost to girdle the mains? Motor is not installed yet, still on cradle. Thanks. Mike P.
zipper06
02-13-2009, 07:24 AM
I am only running this on the street. Will only be pushing 400- 425 hp. What is the cost to girdle the mains? Motor is not installed yet, still on cradle. Thanks. Mike P.
$93.60 here,
Zip.
http://procompelectronics.com/index.php?target=categories&category_id=830
I972Nova
02-13-2009, 06:21 PM
I have a 511 casting 400 block. It is bored .040 and made 738 hp on the dyno. It is filled to the water pump holes though. I run it on Alky due to the fill, but was told this would be good to go. No girdle on the mains here.
Just my .02.
zipper06
02-13-2009, 09:03 PM
I posted the site for a main gurdle, because someone suggested it. I too have 2-400 blks, a 2 bolt main 377" on alcohol, that has been welded 3/4" below the deck on one side about 4" lg. it's filled to the bottom water pump bolts. It's in the car right now, i don't know how much HP, but it runs mid 6's 1/8 and mid 10's in the 1/4 @3250lbs. I also have a 4 bolt that ran the same #'s at 406" on gas, in the same car no filler. I donot have a gurdle on either of these engine, and the 2 bolt has hundreds of passes on it, the 4 bolt broke a rod and shortened it's life, but the blk was still o'k and i'm rebuilding it for the street. I've probably ran 10 of these blk's in the last 20 yrs. no gurdle, with pretty good success.
JMO
Zip.
chevynovaman
02-18-2009, 03:36 PM
YOU COULD HAVE THE HEADS MILLED, MIGHT ADD A LITTLE COMPRESSION, 400-425 HP ON THE STREET SHOULD NOT NEED A MAIN GIRDLE, BUT IT NEVER HURTS TO HAVE ONE.
lsrholder
02-18-2009, 06:28 PM
:idea: Zip, interesting opinion(s) on the 400 blocks. Many say don't even to bother building one, due to cap walk, then the real examples of how long they have lived get posted.
Do you "think" that your longevity results are due to the block filling, mostly, or just attention to detail in block preparation ? For those who have machining finished and are just about ready to assemble, block filling appears to be a no-no, due to cylinder warpage/movement, from the expansion of fillers used. Others say don't do it ! When engine warms up, block/cylinders must be able to expand equally & filler won't allow this to happen.
Then we have the choices between f&r cap straps vs. a complete girdle assy. Your posted site doesn't have any pics of the girdle(s) available. Would be nice to see one & be able to compare with other brands of girdles.
As always, thanks for any info you can supply, you haven't misled or let me down yet.
zipper06
02-18-2009, 10:25 PM
:idea: Zip, interesting opinion(s) on the 400 blocks. Many say don't even to bother building one, due to cap walk, then the real examples of how long they have lived get posted.
Do you "think" that your longevity results are due to the block filling, mostly, or just attention to detail in block preparation ? For those who have machining finished and are just about ready to assemble, block filling appears to be a no-no, due to cylinder warpage/movement, from the expansion of fillers used. Others say don't do it ! When engine warms up, block/cylinders must be able to expand equally & filler won't allow this to happen.
Then we have the choices between f&r cap straps vs. a complete girdle assy. Your posted site doesn't have any pics of the girdle(s) available. Would be nice to see one & be able to compare with other brands of girdles.
As always, thanks for any info you can supply, you haven't misled or let me down yet.
I don't know, i'll build one next week, or down the road. i'm not worried about them. i've built many of them and have not had problems, others have. I'm not saying that they are not a problem blk, i just have been lucky i guess, but i have always sonic tested the cylinder walls and moved the bore to to the most wall thinkness.
Zip.
lsrholder
02-19-2009, 06:24 AM
AND the winner is..... Zipper ! Attention to block preparation.
Build your skyscraper in da swamp, don't get p'od if she falls over.
Thank you Sir !
suicidebomb
02-19-2009, 06:54 AM
AND the winner is..... Zipper ! Attention to block preparation.
Build your skyscraper in da swamp, don't get p'od if she falls over.
Thank you Sir !
If you sink em deep enough, sooner or later you'll hit bedrock. At one time most of Manhatten, was a swamp. Seen it on the National Geographic channel. :)
lsrholder
02-19-2009, 03:26 PM
I just knew when I posted this i'd have a reply like yours :D
+2 for the bedrock man. I'll assume your contractor would be
Fred'a Flintstone.... correct. With help from good ol Barney, who did the drilling.
Not much of a view from the lower units, can't even bass fish offa the balcony :cry:
Would be one heck of a water/sewage system though. And everyone thought all we did was race & fix up them dang hot rods ! LMAO
Thanks, I needed this, twas a bad day indeed.
zipper06
02-19-2009, 10:11 PM
:idea: Zip, interesting opinion(s) on the 400 blocks. Many say don't even to bother building one, due to cap walk, then the real examples of how long they have lived get posted.
Do you "think" that your longevity results are due to the block filling, mostly, or just attention to detail in block preparation ? For those who have machining finished and are just about ready to assemble, block filling appears to be a no-no, due to cylinder warpage/movement, from the expansion of fillers used. Others say don't do it ! When engine warms up, block/cylinders must be able to expand equally & filler won't allow this to happen.
Then we have the choices between f&r cap straps vs. a complete girdle assy. Your posted site doesn't have any pics of the girdle(s) available. Would be nice to see one & be able to compare with other brands of girdles.
As always, thanks for any info you can supply, you haven't misled or let me down yet.
I don't know, i'll build one next week, or down the road. i'm not worried about them. i've built many of them and have not had problems, others have. I'm not saying that they are not a problem blk, i just have been lucky i guess, but i have always sonic tested the cylinder walls and moved the bore to to the most wall thinkness.
Zip.
I don't know the answer to that, we rough bore the blks, then fill them, after the filler is cured then the honing plates go on and the bore is finished to size. I know of people running 900HP on stock blks with 18* heads and living thru it. I'm not worried about them, but if i had my rathers it would be a dart little M blk.
JMO
Zip.