billet crankshaft

[michael1]

Has anyone used one of the billet cranks from ohio crankshaft? They are really good on price but I was wondering about the quality.Also wondering about their aluminum rods.Thanks

[hammertime]

Has anyone used one of the billet cranks from ohio crankshaft? They are really good on price but I was wondering about the quality.Also wondering about their aluminum rods.Thanks

When OC first came out they had some bad stuff but as of late they have put out some good parts. I wouldnt be affraid to use them.


Not speaking of the alum rods just the crank .. never seen anyone use the alum rods they offer

[Tod74]

You beter check everything. I bought an unassembled shortblock from them. The crank measured great but after running it a short time the number 2 and number 4 main bearings were looking bad. It ended up the balance on the rotating assembly was off and the main bores in the block were too tight. Apparently,according to my machine shop guy, all of the new Merlin and Dart blocks usually need align honed and this one had not been. Glad I caught it before any damage was done...other than the bearings. That's what I get for not checking every bearing while assembling it...But the crank measured great..not tapered in the journals,which is what everyone says was their problem.

Oh I just noticed the billet part....mine is just the forged crank. :oops:

[michael1]

If I use the ohio billet crank and use a set of oliver rods do you think everything will be fine or should I go with a callies or howards crank.

[lmchevy]

I use one of the Ohio Billet cranks.I have had good luck with their products.I know it is hard to do but you just have to make a decision on what to use.If you ask around enough you will hear bad things about almost any brand.Good luck.

[Tod74]

If I use the ohio billet crank and use a set of oliver rods do you think everything will be fine or should I go with a callies or howards crank.

Get the best one that you can afford.

[top2096]

try a cola crank I've been running the same cola crank for over 7 years in my Dragster , the whole life of a crank is the balancing ,at the end of the second year my bearing still look new I would put them into a street motor and not worry about it

[bjuice]

try a cola crank I've been running the same cola crank for over 7 years in my Dragster , the whole life of a crank is the balancing ,at the end of the second year my bearing still look new I would put them into a street motor and not worry about it

x2 on the balancing...i also had a cola several years ago with good luck..
i now run Callies ( crank and rods)

[michael1]

Thanks for all the info,I decided I'm going with the callies crank.

[Pwmax]

Tod74, curious, did your Ohio kit that was un-assembled I take it? Were any of the parts taken out of the packages? Like the rods taken out of the protective plastic, the bearings and rings opened? The pistons un-wrapped and taken out of the package? Just curious. I have seen that more than once, when guys bring in Pre=balanced rotating assemblies, because they can get a way better "deal". Not being sarcastic, just wanting to mention this, so all the guys looking at price, of what appears to be the exact same parts, what you are getting. I call it a generic balance job, and not a precision race balance job. The difference is just that. They take a "generic" bob weight, for similiar parts, that they weighed one piston, and one rod for, and use those figures, for everyone they do. This simplifies the balance job. Simply make up the bob weight for the generic specs, slam them on the crank, spin it up, drill a couple holes, and call it "Precision race balanced". What you really get, is a balance job, that is sorta close, but not really, 15 or so grams, is good enough, I mean, come on, what do you expect for that price? lol

Frank

[jmarksdragster]

Stick with the Howards if you are on a budget, Callies if you can afford it. You can't get any better finish than a Callies.

[michael1]

From what I understand the Howards crank is all machined by Callies. But I already decided that I'm going with a Callies. You know how it goes,we always want to go faster. My point being is in a couple of years this thing may have a procharger on it. I don't want to have to spend money on another crank later. It cost a little more up front but well worth it in the long run. Thanks

[TheRabbit]

I just wanted to give you guys a follow up of my experience with Ohio cranks. I remember a big thread somewhere about 'em.

My engine builder suggested using one and I had doubts because of what I had read on RJ. He was honest and told me the limits it had and rated at max 1500hp.
My motor (632) ended up a little over 1200hp (no nos, yet) and I 've been running it since December 08. I've run the snot out of this motor. Every race it turns 7,400+rpms no problems. Early January I blew a rear ring and pinion apart and hit the rev limiter at 8,400. Also recenty (the pass just before the picture you see as my avatar) had a shifter maulfunction and go into netural. Again pegged the rev limited at 8,400 and still going strong. I know it's no comparrison to a Callies, but just wanted the guys on a lower budget to know that the Ohio cranks have been doing well (so far) for us.

[oldandtired]

I buy a lot of stuff from Ohio Crank.

The key to any HP purchase is to tell them what you plan to do with their stuff. Tell them what you think you are going to buy and then listen. That is where Scott Ray and the guys at OC can assist. They run what they make.

Dave

[Tod74]

Tod74, curious, did your Ohio kit that was un-assembled I take it? Were any of the parts taken out of the packages? Like the rods taken out of the protective plastic, the bearings and rings opened? The pistons un-wrapped and taken out of the package? Just curious. I have seen that more than once, when guys bring in Pre=balanced rotating assemblies, because they can get a way better "deal". Not being sarcastic, just wanting to mention this, so all the guys looking at price, of what appears to be the exact same parts, what you are getting. I call it a generic balance job, and not a precision race balance job. The difference is just that. They take a "generic" bob weight, for similiar parts, that they weighed one piston, and one rod for, and use those figures, for everyone they do. This simplifies the balance job. Simply make up the bob weight for the generic specs, slam them on the crank, spin it up, drill a couple holes, and call it "Precision race balanced". What you really get, is a balance job, that is sorta close, but not really, 15 or so grams, is good enough, I mean, come on, what do you expect for that price? lol

Frank

I had it balanced at Schmidt Automotive in Indianapolis. It was just like you said.Really close but not exact.