Towing

[TheRabbit]

I'm going to buy an enclosed trailer but woundering which way to go. I'm thinking about a 40' trailer with living quarters vs motorhome / RV and 28' trailer.
RV has advantages of being used for reasons other than just going to the track and would be easier with 4 or more people. I don't have kids but do travel with friends.
What are some pros and cons and which do most of you use???

[I972Nova]

I have a motorhome and enclosed trailer.

The advantages that I see to my setup are many. As you said you can use it for other purposes. In my situation I like it because I only have 1 monthly payment. If you have a truck and long trailer, typically you will have 2 payments.

Aside from all that the motorhome with trailer turns better. Sleeps 6 at least usually. You can just pull over and sleep or eat. Your family or friends arent crammed in a truck while your driving. I dont know if it is legal or I would even want anyone riding in the trailer while your moving. You do have alot more room generally in the motorhome verses a living quarter trailer.

thats my .02....

[Xrated1]

I like my lq trailer, I need a dually truck for my business so I had that anyways. When we get to the track we have a street vehicle to unhook in case we need to run for parts or the beer store or whatever. Pro's and con's to both, the trailer works for me.

[TheRabbit]

dragsterJosh that's exactly what i was thinking. I think the room while riding is as important as the room while at the track. Not much fun or legal riding in a trailer while being towed. not to mention no AC!!.
I still may go living qtrs trailer if I find a realy good deal,but leaning more towards an RV and 28' trailer. I'm not familiar with which ones can tow a trailer and which ones to stay away from. I'll probably buy one that somebody already uses as a towmobile to be safe.
Thanks.

[TheRabbit]

Looks like something 30' or less is what I need for towing a 28', 8500lbs+ trailer. Any suggestions what type or class I should look for. I've heard horror stories of motor homes breaking in the rear part of the chassis when towing heavy trailers.

[TheYellaBrick]

In regards that MH's break apart; it's cuz there's WAAAAAAY too much tongue weight ! AND the original hitch mounting structure is waaaaay under designed and under built. I see so many trailers with the rear bumper of the tow vehicle just a few inches off the deck with the front tires having little control contact to the pavement. Put that same trailer/load combo on a motor home and there isn't the obvious visual overloading BUT there's still that tremendous tongue weight.
Properly placed loads on the trailer is of utmost importance to vehicle and trailer control. Balanced so there is enough tongue weight to prevent 'whip the tail' without over loading the tow vehicle.
Before I hitch up a trailer to my MH, I hook it to my pickup and measure how much the rear bumper sinks. I then move the trailer load to where it's optimal, secure it, mark my trailer where a front tire is ( so I can reload the car in the same spot ) and then hook it on the MH. This procedure might also include a spin up the local highway to ensure stability at speed, stop adjust and then highway speed again until it's acceptable(SAFE). As I haul 3 different cars regularly on the same trailer I've tire placement marks permanently applied for each car.

[zipper06]

I think a MH and 28 footer is the way to go. I've got a 28ft. Halmark tag which i usually tow with a duelly crew cab. I also bought a 35Ft. Allegro which i thought would be a good tower. Big Mistake, when i started looking at how much work had to be done to set it up for towing i was amazed. It got tag wheels, and the chassis is weaker than my duelly. I have a friend who tows with a 34 ft. and the only reason he bought it was for comfort for his wife who goes to all the races but rarely comes out of the MH. He hates it because of the problems with parking, getting gas, etc. It's like a train going down the road. I'm trying to sell my 35 ft'er and buy a 26 ft. that's available in my area. I for sure (if i can sell my 35ft'er) will never buy one over 28ft. for towing.

JMO

Zip.

[TheRabbit]

Zip there are so many different kinds of RV's, but only a few that can tow a trailer like I need. Do you know what model or class RV i'm looking for?I know if I see a pic, but still not sure what class they are. I have a bunch of adds in a local paper, but most don't have pics. If I knew what I was looking for it would it save me a bunch of time.
Thanks.

[zipper06]

Zip there are so many different kinds of RV's, but only a few that can tow a trailer like I need. Do you know what model or class RV i'm looking for?I know if I see a pic, but still not sure what class they are. I have a bunch of adds in a local paper, but most don't have pics. If I knew what I was looking for it would it save me a bunch of time.
Thanks.

I would suggest a Class A, there's more room in them than a B or C. The one i have is a class A that will sleep 8, but like i said it's really weak behind the drive wheels.Before that i had a 28 ft. and even had to add bracing on the rear frame on it Most class A's have twins or full bed in rear, plus sleep over the drivers compartment, and usually a couch that folds down, which means sleeps 4 comfortable and 6 if you're really close friends.
One other thing is if you do have something over 30 ft. and you break down it in most cases cannot be towed with a wrecker, it will require a giant flatbed. That happened to my friend Jimmy Smith with his 34 ft'er, going to Super Chevy in Memphis this yr. it took 4 hrs. to get it and his inclosed trailer off the freeway inside Memphis city limits ( a rear hub lost the bearings and it shelled the axle gear).
Here's some pics. of the one i have for sale,it's a 1986, 35ft class A with a new crate 454 and 400 trans, less than 8,000 miles on them. 90% rubber and i'm having trouble to get $6,000.00 for it. I wouldn't tow anything heaver than my flatbed trailer with it without a lot of rear frame work.

click to enlarge

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JMO

Zip.

[I972Nova]

My mh is a 33 foot class a. It has the generator in the rear and is very sturdy in the back with the generator mounts and all. I pull my 28 foot trailer that is right at 9200 pounds with no issues. I just stop at truck stops when I get fuel. All the Flying J's have a dump station and rv pumps. In the owners manual of mine it says that you can pull 8430 pounds with it.

I would recomend one with the Generator in the back because it makes it beefier back there. My Uncle has the same exact mh as mine but 2 years newer and he pulls a 32 foot tri axle with 2 cars and a golf cart. It pulls it great and he hasnt done anything to brace his hitch.

A friend of mine bought a 38 footer with the tag axle and he regrets it. It eats up the tag tires with the wieght of the trailer back there. My dad had a 25 foot class c (van nose) that cracked in the back from the stress of the trailer. But it had the entry door clear at the back and that weakened it.

Here is a picture of my setup.

http://shutter15.pictures.aol.com/data/pictures/25/00A/0B/EF/09/F9/pSslM2L8M8e8pYC-hVtk4+rwrhUmSJE00300.jpg

[bbchevy]

Josh,
Does that Motorhome have a Small Block or a BIG BLOCK...............?
Later
G 8)

[TheYellaBrick]

A-B-C class you'll definitely want a big block SOMEthing, gas or diesel. They'll have to work a HELL of a lot less than ringing the life outa small block.

My 'Gearhead Motel' is a 24' C class '77 Dodge with 440/727, Edelbrock/Edelbrock, RV cam, deep trans pan & cooler. I pull an 18' open and it all cruises along just fine. It's an overhead main bed and a bunk bed in the rear where I pile in tools-parts-gear. It ain't as luxurious as a class A but it works for lil' ol' me ! If ya take a group with you a class A is the way to go.

[bbchevy]

A-B-C class you'll definitely want a big block SOMEthing, gas or diesel. They'll have to work a HELL of a lot less than ringing the life outa small block.

My 'Gearhead Motel' is a 24' C class '77 Dodge with 440/727, Edelbrock/Edelbrock, RV cam, deep trans pan & cooler. I pull an 18' open and it all cruises along just fine. It's an overhead main bed and a bunk bed in the rear where I pile in tools-parts-gear. It ain't as luxurious as a class A but it works for lil' ol' me ! If ya take a group with you a class A is the way to go.
Just CURIOUS?
Cause i Beleive that He Commented about how He was DONE with BBC's?
My 7.4 Duelly Pulls the S#!T out of My 45'Pace with a Usuall Load of around 15,000 GROSS?Sometimes MORE?NEVERLESSS...........
Later
G 8)

[TheYellaBrick]

bbchevy,

:?: :?: :?: :?: I'm absolutely SURE you have mistaken me for someone else :roll: :roll:
I've been a Mother Mopar Man forever :shock: :D
Now, my BROTHER is a Chevy guy !

[I972Nova]

Yes it has the 454 in it with the banks power pack. It gets 10 mpg when your not hammerin on it, but when you get after it, It can run 85 all day!

It wasnt the big blocks fault it was the tool that I had built it. I am putting together a Nye Automotive 496 with Dart pro 1 heads that should get the job done in my dragster.

I still run the small blocks in my truck and street machines though..lol...

[TheRabbit]

THANKS GUYS you've answered my questions 100%. Now just gotta save a few $ to buy one!! Big block is the only way i want to go and I really want a diesel If I can find one.
Again THANKS!!

[nosnerd]

look into a traile toad....


al