Oil blowing past oil filter seal during priming - help!

[vincef]

Need some help or suggestions on things to check. I used my old HEI dist and tore it down to use for a oil primer. Put the electric drill in clockwise rotation and brought the drill to 500 RPM. I heard the drill starting to load up and then I see oil all over the floor.

Oil "blew" past the oil filter seal???? This is a big block if it matters. What would cause this to happen?

I double checked and the filter is correct - Bosch 3510. I had it tightened as normal.

One thing to note is the machine shop did not put the stock or factory oil filter fitting back on the block. I had to bolt this back on and notice it has a spring loaded check valve of some type. Does it matter if the check valve is toward the rear or front of the engine? Any ideas? I simply bolted this back on as it did not appear anything special was required.

Help is appreciated - Vince

[lanham]

Only thing that comes to mind right now is check the oil filter adapter to see if it is cracked.The way it should go on is the side of the adapter that is rounded out just make sure it is away from the oil hole in the block.Opposite side of the oil hole.Hope this helps good luck.

[edvancedengines]

Too much oil pressure.

I double what he said about filter dapter. Get aan aluminum billet one.

Check for stuck pressure relief valve inside oil pump.

Find out more about that new check valve.

Here is what you are doing.
If you were to compare the top of the filter with another one just like it, you will see the top has been ballooned up. What that does is it moves the top O-Ring farter away from the sealed surface and if you check you may find that the filter is now not tight it is loose.

Another downside to this is, inside the paper filter will be a hole where paper material has been blown into the oil return channels. Be sure return passage is not plugged with anything before you put it all back again.

The pump should have an internal pressure relief which will bypass oil. It is usually a piston that slides back and forth. That is likely stuck.


Ed

[vincef]

thanks all for the feedback. I will double check the stock adapter since that is easiest. Start with another new filter and go easy on it.

It there anyway to free that check valve in the pump wihtout dropping the pan? PLease say yes .....

[cepx111]

thanks all for the feedback. I will double check the stock adapter since that is easiest. Start with another new filter and go easy on it.

It there anyway to free that check valve in the pump wihtout dropping the pan? PLease say yes .....

Nope, I'm afraid not you'll have to acess the oil pump and the only way to do that is to drop the pan.
Is this a new pump? You might be able to get it warrantied.


Goodluck Charles

[vincef]

Yes its a new high volume pump - everything is new but the block. Went high volume because the machinist/ builder said he ran the bearing clearences a bit looser - something he suggested with a BBC.

I only spun the pump 500 rpm.... that does not seem like it would build high enough pressure to cause a relief valve related problem? I really am worried about the GM block to oil filter fitting and possibly that being installed wrong, but then again the filter ballooned up so it had some major pressure.

Going to double check the part number on the fitting - maybe they gave me a small block fitting??? (could be the same part#)

Worse comes to worse, then bummer off with the pan - damn.

Thanks again for the feedback - anyone with other suggestions I would be happy to hear them (but sounds like I have the solution) :|

[alexu]

Hello-New to replies and computers. Machinist and engine builder and drag racer are my qualifications. What was oil pressure during priming and what pump was used. If filter ballooned, probably stuck pressure relief valve. Only thing needed on wet sump oil filter adapter is knock out old relief valve and tap it to 1/8npt and install pipe plug. Save money and rock on.

[vincef]

Thanks for the feedback - the builder dynoed the oil pump before he installed and said the relief valve opened at 55 psi. Definately not the case now - went easy on it this time after checking the filter adapter and it would crank to 120 psi no problem - holy crap when I saw that.

Dropping the pan tomorrow to pull out the relief valve and flush the pump and double check it before reinstalling.

Makes me worry why it was intially okay but now it is not.... should I just replace it with another new pump or if the valve is free and we flush it no worries I guess?

[cepx111]

" Should I just replace it with another new pump or if the valve is free and we flush it no worries I guess?

I would get another pump and be done with it cause chances are if it hung up once it will do it again and you'll be pulling the oil pan off again>
JMO, Charles

[vincef]

Thanks cepx - someone mentioned polishing the piston and bore in the pump and then no worries. I will pull it apart and see - this was suppose to be a good pump. Guess some crude or heat from brazing the pick-up caused this.....

Getting ready to head out in th 94% humidity and 90 deg heat to drop the pan - "nice" weather for some engine fun (not).

[edvancedengines]

Thanks cepx - someone mentioned polishing the piston and bore in the pump and then no worries.

Correct. If you free it up enough. You said something else that caused bells to go off in my head though.

Guess some crude or heat from brazing the pick-up caused this.....


You bet it will. Find out what size the bore where the piston goes is and get a flat bottom reamer and ream it by hand to clean the slight warp out of it. That is probaly whaty happened it probably warped the cylinder. If you can't find the size make it .003 to .005 bigger than the piston. You need the piston to float free and to not stick even if jammed hard toward the bottom.

TRASH THT FACTORY ADAPTER and buy a Billet Aluminum one from Moroso, Canton, CV Products, B&B or someone. The factory adapter is paper thin in it's weak places.

Ed

[vincef]

THanks Ed - a better adapter will be in the works.

I took the oil pump off yesterday. Disassembled the relief valve and the piston is stuck. When I say stuck I mean welded stuck at the bottom of the bore (no buypass position). I could not free it so used the plate off a fairly new pump I had and now back in business. Bleeds off at 55 psi just as it was preset earlier.

The builder thinks that when he cleanedthe pump off after checking in oil he might have also displaced the oil in the pump or at least to the extent some corrosion formed and froze the piston in place.

I would say the heat from brazing but he tack welded the pick-up on so heat generally is not as high as brazing.

Eitherway - problem solved, set me back a day, but no damage done.