purchasing a dragster

[cruzer0198]

Hi All,

I have lurked around this site for a while now and am considering purchasing a dragster. I have not driven a dragster before but have been part of a top sportsman team so I am familiar with door cars. Can soemone give some advice on what to look for when buying a dragster, or what to stay away from? I do not have the funds for a new dragster and do not plan on running much faster than 8 seconds, so any tips on buying a used dragster is appreciated.

Thanks!

[sc4405]

You are going to get a LOT of different opinions on this one. I personally went to Hawley's school and got my Super Comp license there, then I bought a turnkey slipjoint dragster that was a couple years old, not beat to death, and have really enjoyed racing it. I've won my share of rounds and 4 event wins @ local tracks and have run some NHRA divisionals. I'm selling the car now because I want to have a new one built to my specs. For beginners, I think hardtail/slipjoint cars are an excellent way to gain driving experience SAFELY. Everyone's gonna scream 4-link or swing-arm is a must BUT you don't know what may have happened to a used one in it's life cycle. A friend of mine crashed a 4-link car 'cause the heim joint failed. They need to be inspected/replaced before fatigue can be a factor. Wheelbase must be considered for storage/trailering issues. Not trying to toot my own horn here but for what I consider an excellent starter car see RJ ad 1057771. I am the second owner and have logs on it since new. Another thing to worry about is how the car has been hauled - the highway wears 'em out way more than racing them. You have your pick of several hundred cars out there, good luck and happy new year! 8) JB

[sc2265]

i have a 06 mullis 4 link ill seel u fro 21500 rolling#1069333

[hammertime]

I wouldnt buy nothing but a name brand car that has shocks, if you do and dislike it, it will sell easier. 75% of the time a lot of no name cars dont work as well as a bigger name car.
Mullis
Undercover
Racecraft Danny Nelson
Racetech
Miller

smaller names but good cars
Diamond
American
TNT
M&M

Suspended cars do make a big difference they will go down any and all tracks consistently.

[cruzer0198]

what about Spitzer?

[sc2265]

ive heard bad about breaking

[krazy55ken]

I have a 2004 spitzer that I race and it has been a great car with no problems. Just my 2 cents.....

[shawnp]

I have a friends complete Mike Bos car with small block advertised for $15K if you are wanting in the game inexpensively. It is a good working car that needs a new home:
http://www.racingjunk.com/post/1067367/1997-Mike-Bos-Chassis-Craft.-Roller-or-TK.-.html

When looking at cars, you want to pull all the panels off. Look for stress cracks in the uprights, drivers compartment or around the motor plates. Look to see if the car has been welded or reworked at all. Unfortunately, you are going to find that a majority of hardtail/slip joint cars will have this. You are less likely to find this on a suspended car. You are also likely to find broken bars on cars not properly transported. Other areas to check are spindles, steering rack and rear end brackets.

Get in the car. Take a helmet with you. Make sure you are comfortable and fit safely. You should sit back in the cage and your head should not touch the top. You want to make sure you can reach all your controls from the seat.


Like David said, I second the idea of suspension. Have had both and will not go back to a slip joint car at all. A suspended car has far more advantage on a track then a slip joint. Throw in dual suspension and you have the cat's ass of race cars :wink: . Besides, you don't hear tires chirping from a bouncing 4-link/swingarm car on a marginal track.

The other piece of advice, find someone to go with you that knows about dragsters. Don't take your group of door car experts. It is an apples to oranges comparison by far. You want someone that has worked on, driven and understands dragsters. Good luck to you.

[davis419b]

.....X3....

[cruzer0198]

thanks for the advice. I just moved to central Florida from NE Ohio so all my door car friends are there. I am looking forward to hitting some tracks around here to see what things are like and make some new racing friends. I am really close to Orlando Speed World but from the looks of the website there is not alot of bracket racing going on there. I have a 71 chevelle that is street/strip that is just coming out of the paint shop that I cant wait to take to street drag night and burn some of the ricers!

[shawnp]

Cruzer, where did you race? You know a place called Norwalk, Magnolia, Quaker City or Thompson?? How about Drag City( Meander Drag Way)?? You have good people in Florida. Hop on to dragraceresults.com. A lot of Floirda racers in the area that would love to help you out.

Shawn Pinkerton
Vickers Bros Racing
Alliance, OH

[mikeaton]

i agree with the high way beating up the chassis if its not stabilized correctly ive got a 263 top sportsman dragster that has less than 25 runs on it and its never been abused ive had several "buyers" come by and inspect the car and none of us have found anything cracked etc... it is a hard taile with a slip type chassis built to top alcohol specs in the early 90s then with the weight vrs cubic inch rule change it made it obsolete over night its been sitting up on supports till i bought it last year around april. if interested see add#1028582 every car will be different just dont let someone push you unless they have owned several dragsters themselfs me ive own 2 many to count! just my .02 mike in new mexico

[hammertime]

what about Spitzer?

I wouldnt own one, we bracket guys think of spitzer we think of top dragster and comp cars.

I've had several different cars just in the last 5 years (7 dragsters and 1 door car to be exact) I now own a dual suspended dragster, Shawn can tell you the dual suspended cars around here whip some ass !!

[MidLifeCrisis]

All great opinions. I'm sure if Cruzer is like me, budget does come into play. I bought a T/K Spitzer Hardtail from this site. This is my first car of any kind so money was an issue.

I researched the car extensively and a NHRA chasis certification was a huge factor. Car certified for way faster than I'm planning on going....

Ultimately, I'd love to have a suspended car. Can't afford it right now.

BTW: Heard varying opinions on exactly how to support/trasnsport my dragster.

Since there are many experienced here.....love to know how it's being/supposed to be done. PM me so this isn't a hijacked thread.

[hammertime]

I am sure he wont mind if we hijack it.
I have a chassis stabilizer I put under the driver compartment, I've strapped them down several different ways, it seems over each rear tire is the best way. No matter what a dragster needs something under it to keep it form bouncing! they say 1 mile without the pad is like 500 passes down the track.

[MidLifeCrisis]

Hammer....

What would you describe as a "chasis pad"?

Scott

[hammertime]

Hammer....

What would you describe as a "chasis pad"?

Scott

http://store02.prostores.com/servlet/racecraftchassis/the-30/Chassis-Stabilizer-2025/Detail?sfs=a7033718

this is a good picture of what I use and always have.

[shawnp]

That is the air bladder we use for our cars. We get it under a cross bar or x-bar under the driver area. This supports the middle of the chassis and prevents movement up and down. We tie off both tires and then snug down the rear to prevent the suspension from moving. We also add a strap up front just snug enough that if something happened it would hold the front.

[sxfreak2002]

a very cheap way to do it is buy yourself a 4-8 sheet of styrofoam about an inch thick and cut it into foot or so wide and duct tape as many peices as needed to fit snug and strap it down front and rear. it will not hurt the car and makes a very cheap and very good way to stablize the chassis. i put one under the front and mid and under the x member and it worked great.

[shawnp]

Dave, my spare air bladder( chassis pad) is for sale $125.00 plus shipping.

[hammertime]

Dave, my spare air bladder( chassis pad) is for sale $125.00 plus shipping.

very good deal .. I'll promise Shawn is good guy to deal with !