How much improvement to expect from some new heads.

[Tod74]

Before I ask this I will say that ,yes,I do understand that every combination is different and nobody can say for sure what kind of numbers a certain car will run,especially without dyno numbers..but I just wanted your guys' opinion on how much potential for improvement I have.Here is what I have: Sorry this is so long..just wanted to give all the info.

3050 lb 70 Nova,back halved with 12 pt cage,32 x 14 goodyears,ladder bars and coil overs with a 5.14 gear.Trans is a 1.76 powerglide with a brake and 8" converter. Engine is 13.0 to1 540. RIGHT NOW it has bone stock 074 Factory aluminum heads.(I will have new heads before next season) Victor 454-R with a stock 8896 1050 dominator. The camshaft is a crane solid roller .part number 138361. Grind number R-274/4334-25-14 SFO.

lift is .737/.726
dur@ .050 is 274/284

LSA is 114 and the cam was installed @ 109 intake centerline. I have only made 4 passes on it so far.1st pass it went a 6.35 @ 108 mph with a 1.4 60'.. .Shifted it at 6800 but it felt like it ran out of steam a little ... it was 97 deg outside and miserable humid. The next week I lowered the air psi in the tires and it ran a 1.32 60' .I also shifted it @ 6400 to see how it did. This felt too early,but it ran a 6.28 but 0nly 104 mph( as I said it was 108 with the slower E.T. ) It cut out a little just as I shifted it..Upon inspecting it I found I had a broken valve spring..The springs were suposed to work with this cam..according to my local machine shop guy who checked them for me( they were nearly new but had been set up to a cam slightly smaller)They were manley 1.640. I made sure they did not stack up completely but I don't know what psi they checked at.The only reason I didn't have the eaxact springs for my cam is I knew I was going to get new heads over the winter.I only used the 074 because I had them and wanted to try out the car before winter. I haven't decided which heads I will buy yet..probably AFR 325 .Money issues will probably mandate an OUT OF THE BOX type head with no porting work..at least for now
Anyway now for my question:

Is an e.t in the 5.90's a reasonable goal for this combination with better heads? Again sorry for writing a book. :)

[woodsman]

JMO but with a maxed out set of good flowing heads you may make your goal of 5.90's. You are going to need around 70 or 80 more HP to get where you want to be. I hope you get what you want.

[superstreeter]

I ran a set of 781 steel heads, with larger valves and some porting, then upgraded to the afr 305s,,,the car ran .15 quicker, pretty disappointing,,so don`t get your hopes up,,I think your going to need an extra 130 hp to get that goal, I have found that once you get into the 10s - 1/4 mile,,it takes about 20 hp to get an extra 10th

[woodsman]

I ran a set of 781 steel heads, with larger valves and some porting, then upgraded to the afr 305s,,,the car ran .15 quicker, pretty disappointing,,so don`t get your hopes up,,I think your going to need an extra 130 hp to get that goal, I have found that once you get into the 10s - 1/4 mile,,it takes about 20 hp to get an extra 10th


superstreeter we are think about changing heads on my brothers truck how much HP do we need to shave 3/10th.

[superstreeter]

how fast is it now? and what do you have, give some details...

[woodsman]

how fast is it now? and what do you have, give some details...

Its running 6.28 in the 1/8th weight is 3050lb w/ 540 cid.

[Tod74]

Thanks for the reply guys..I never really thought it would go 5's just by changing heads...only reason I ask is I see other people on here with motors similar to mine with good heads running much faster ..plus,like I said only made 4 passes, So have not done any playing with timing and so forth. The car leaves hard and pulls hard the first half of the track but it really seemed to nose over on top when I took it to 6800...I have been told I am running too much timing for a big block (38 total distributor locked out). I just thought it was nosing over because it has stock factory heads on a relatively large engine(compared to the factory BBC).
I haven't decided for sure which heads to get...as far as intake port size. The cost difference between the various AFR heads is trivial. On one hand I think I should get the 345 or 357 but on the other hand I am afraid I will go too big and hurt the short times too much. I don't want to take this thing past 6800 or so .I will also change the intake to a Dart or a Super Victor and I am not against a camshaft swap if I thought it would pick it up some.
I haven't checked the stall..to be honest I actually forgot to look.I do leave flat against the converter with the trans brake...but I don't mash the throttle until just before I release it because this is a bottom bulb car with no delay box.The converter is an 8" Coan that I had built for a 14.1 454 that I had in the car with the same heads and intake. Cam was a .714 lift Comp cams roller with dur @ .050 262/ 272 with a 108 LSA. I did dead head the converter with that engine one time and it stalled at 5200 with the transbrake. I called Coan before I put it behind this engine to see if the converter could be modified for this combonation..I gave them my engine specs.He told me to try it as is and see how it did. The car ran 6.50's with the old engine and the 60' were always around 1.43 - 1.46 and MPH was 104....I thought that 80 more cubic inches would have picked it up more than 3 tenths.

[badrad]

Well from everything I read those 074 castings don't flow for crap stock, especially with what your doing. My AFR 305 heads decimate those numbers, JMHO but I bet in your case you will see a big difference with new heads.

[gdmii]

Thanks for the reply guys..I never really thought it would go 5's just by changing heads...only reason I ask is I see other people on here with motors similar to mine with good heads running much faster ..plus,like I said only made 4 passes, So have not done any playing with timing and so forth. The car leaves hard and pulls hard the first half of the track but it really seemed to nose over on top when I took it to 6800...I have been told I am running too much timing for a big block (38 total distributor locked out). I just thought it was nosing over because it has stock factory heads on a relatively large engine(compared to the factory BBC).
I haven't decided for sure which heads to get...as far as intake port size. The cost difference between the various AFR heads is trivial. On one hand I think I should get the 345 or 357 but on the other hand I am afraid I will go too big and hurt the short times too much. I don't want to take this thing past 6800 or so .I will also change the intake to a Dart or a Super Victor and I am not against a camshaft swap if I thought it would pick it up some.
I haven't checked the stall..to be honest I actually forgot to look.I do leave flat against the converter with the trans brake...but I don't mash the throttle until just before I release it because this is a bottom bulb car with no delay box.The converter is an 8" Coan that I had built for a 14.1 454 that I had in the car with the same heads and intake. Cam was a .714 lift Comp cams roller with dur @ .050 262/ 272 with a 108 LSA. I did dead head the converter with that engine one time and it stalled at 5200 with the transbrake. I called Coan before I put it behind this engine to see if the converter could be modified for this combonation..I gave them my engine specs.He told me to try it as is and see how it did. The car ran 6.50's with the old engine and the 60' were always around 1.43 - 1.46 and MPH was 104....I thought that 80 more cubic inches would have picked it up more than 3 tenths.

You've touched upon several things here that would cause your problems. Back when I first built my 496 and was running on gas, I set the timing to 35 initially just to be safe until I got the thing on a dyno. Once on the dyno we picked up 35 hp just by advancing the timing from 35 to 38. Later on I played with 39 and then 40 and got a little detonation at 40 so backed it down to 38 and had no other problems. Now that I'm running alky I run 37* with no problems.

You'll be surprised at how much you will pick up with good heads and you'll be surprised again at how much you pick up my having those good heads ported by someone who knows what they're doing. I had Curtis Boggs do my Bodix 2X heads and at the same time I installed a vacuum pump. The best I can figure I gained a total of 90 hp with those 2 changes and allowing maybe 20 hp from the vacuum pump that means 70 hp or more just from porting the heads.

I think you are suffering from 2 major items. I think you have the wrong cam and your heads don't flow enough to support the power level you want. I don't think that motor will have the ummff to work well with a 114 LSA. I would think something on a 110 or 112 LSA. Even if you keep your current cam I would retard it a few degrees from the 5 degrees advance you have now. Maybe install it on a 112 or 111 ICL which should give you a little more top end. As far as the intake, there's no sense in changing it until you get better heads. Going with a larger intake now will just make the problem worse.

I think some well researched dollars in heads, intake and cam will get you where you want to be. Give Curtis a call. You'll be glad you did.

George

[Tod74]

Thanks gdmii

I am not changing the intake now...I ment when I change heads I plan to change the intake. Like I said I used the top end parts from my old engine simply because I had them,and I wanted to run the car before winter. I only used that cam because that is what Crane recomended. I know a little bit about camshafts but not nearly enough...so I usually just get recomendations from crane and Comp cams and put the numbers into a Desktop Dyno programs and pick the one that looks like it works better.I know those things are not exactly accurate,but my thinking is that even though the power numbers are not exact,I can still compare two cams against each other. I think they recomended that cam because of the heads I have. I degreed it at 109 intake centerline because that was what the cam card said.

[superstreeter]

I ran a set of 781 steel heads, with larger valves and some porting, then upgraded to the afr 305s,,,the car ran .15 quicker, pretty disappointing,,so don`t get your hopes up,,I think your going to need an extra 130 hp to get that goal, I have found that once you get into the 10s - 1/4 mile,,it takes about 20 hp to get an extra 10th


superstreeter we are think about changing heads on my brothers truck how much HP do we need to shave 3/10th.

After giving this more thought, probably not every change a person makes to his combination will be the same. what I said earlier was my gain with the change, other heads being changed to the 305cc may make more or less HP, changing other items on a vehicle can make big gains as well, without even changing the horse power level, I put the car on a diet for example, took off 200 lbs,car picked up about a 1/4 second, changed the front disc brakes to aerospace duel piston and lighter rotors, this gained me 1/4 second, lighter wheels, driveshaft, tires, transmission, headers, exhaust, etc...will all make big differences in performance, I did several of these over the winter and picked up a second off my time without even touching the engine. Do a slide rule 1/4 mile - hp test before you change any of these items, and you`ll see, your engine will get credit for more horse power, and it hasn`t changed a thing...( other than the weight difference),It doesn`t seem right but you could start out with a 500 hp car at the beginning and end up with something that shows 600 when your done, but I still think you need more than 10 horse to gain a tenth, once you hit the 10.0 range for 1/4 mile or 6.0 range for 1/8 th ,it takes more

[woodsman]

I ran a set of 781 steel heads, with larger valves and some porting, then upgraded to the afr 305s,,,the car ran .15 quicker, pretty disappointing,,so don`t get your hopes up,,I think your going to need an extra 130 hp to get that goal, I have found that once you get into the 10s - 1/4 mile,,it takes about 20 hp to get an extra 10th


superstreeter we are think about changing heads on my brothers truck how much HP do we need to shave 3/10th.

After giving this more thought, probably not every change a person makes to his combination will be the same. what I said earlier was my gain with the change, other heads being changed to the 305cc may make more or less HP, changing other items on a vehicle can make big gains as well, without even changing the horse power level, I put the car on a diet for example, took off 200 lbs,car picked up about a 1/4 second, changed the front disc brakes to aerospace duel piston and lighter rotors, this gained me 1/4 second, lighter wheels, driveshaft, tires, transmission, headers, exhaust, etc...will all make big differences in performance, I did several of these over the winter and picked up a second off my time without even touching the engine. Do a slide rule 1/4 mile - hp test before you change any of these items, and you`ll see, your engine will get credit for more horse power, and it hasn`t changed a thing...( other than the weight difference),It doesn`t seem right but you could start out with a 500 hp car at the beginning and end up with something that shows 600 when your done, but I still think you need more than 10 horse to gain a tenth, once you hit the 10.0 range for 1/4 mile or 6.0 range for 1/8 th ,it takes more

superstreeter I get your drift and that is some good stuff but I am a bit confussed about the 10hp to knock off a tenth/sec.

[Pwmax]

At that et range, and power level, it takes a lot of power increase, to go even a little faster. On a similiar deal, except it was a 496, that made 752hp with 049 oval ports, they were VERY re-worked, and not a typical port job, but, the rest of the engine was very basic, after running 1 season with the oval ports, in the 9.30-40 range, depending on air, with a best of a 9.298 et, at 143-145, again, depending on air, for the next season, I did nothing else, except change to a set of mildy ported Canfield 310's, same intake, except ported to a rectangle port, which was a Victor-O 4500, same cam, same everything, only change was the heads, the car ultimately ran 8.989 at 150, with a string of 9.0's. I didn't dyno the engine after the head swap. But, I did dyno it later, and it made about 70 more hp than the ovals.

I would expect, if you got the right head, and I would suggest the new revised Pro-1's, either the 325's, or, the 345's. At 3000lbs, I think the 345's would be a better choice, as, they offer a bunch of easier future potential. A 325 head, can be made to basicaly make just as much power as a 345, but, it takes a bunch more work. THe meat is there, it just has to be removed.

I would also get a new cam. THat is a very conervative cam for a 540. With a cam, and head swap, I could see it making an aditional 100hp.

Frank
Advanced Performance
www.get-ap.com

[Tod74]

OK..so if I go with a head in the 335- 345 cc range...what kind of camshaft specs should I be looking at for this combo? Keep in mind I want to keep the thing under 7000 rpm because I am poor and can't build a new motor overnight..lol. :lol:

[Pwmax]

I wouldn;t get to carried away on the cam, but something in the low 280 at .050 on the intake, and upper 280 to low 290 on the exhaust, with .775 intake lift, and .714-.720 on the ex. I personaly would run a 112 lobe sep. With the tighter lobe sep, it should equal the mid range tq of the old cam, but, it will make more hp up top.

Have you considered just re-working the heads you already have? You said they are un-ported correct? If thats the case, for A LOT less than new heads, you could pick up a bunch of power that way. A cam change, maybe an intake change, to a super Victor, or the smaller profiler, I wouldn;t use the big profiler for 7000rpm, but, a Super Victor, with some minor plenumn work, a port job, maybe bigger intake valves, and a cam, and you would go high 5's. And, the cool part, you could say, they are just some old 074 aluminumn heads, when your beating guys with Dart, Brodix, etc. You couldn;t imagine, how mad guys got, from my above example, with the 049 oval ports, how mad guys would get, when they got trailered by old junk truck heads, when they were running their cnc'd this or thats.

Frank
Advanced Performance
www.get-ap.com

[gdmii]

OK..so if I go with a head in the 335- 345 cc range...what kind of camshaft specs should I be looking at for this combo? Keep in mind I want to keep the thing under 7000 rpm because I am poor and can't build a new motor overnight..lol. :lol:

I think either of these two cams would work well for you if you are going to keep the rpm at 7000 and below:

Comp Cams 11-734-9

Operating Range: 4500-7300 RPM
Duration Advertised: 313° Intake / 322° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 278° Intake / 286° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.7 Rockers: .748'' Intake / .714'' Exhaust
Valve Setting: .028'' Intake / .030'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 110°

Comp Cams 11-740-9

Operating Range: 5000-7500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 321° Intake / 336° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 286° Intake / 298° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.7 Rockers: .748'' Intake / .748'' Exhaust
Valve Setting: .028'' Intake / .030'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 112°


George

[Tod74]

OK..so if I go with a head in the 335- 345 cc range...what kind of camshaft specs should I be looking at for this combo? Keep in mind I want to keep the thing under 7000 rpm because I am poor and can't build a new motor overnight..lol. :lol:

I think either of these two cams would work well for you if you are going to keep the rpm at 7000 and below:

Comp Cams 11-734-9

Operating Range: 4500-7300 RPM
Duration Advertised: 313° Intake / 322° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 278° Intake / 286° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.7 Rockers: .748'' Intake / .714'' Exhaust
Valve Setting: .028'' Intake / .030'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 110°

Comp Cams 11-740-9

Operating Range: 5000-7500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 321° Intake / 336° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 286° Intake / 298° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.7 Rockers: .748'' Intake / .748'' Exhaust
Valve Setting: .028'' Intake / .030'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 112°


George

Thanks for taking the time to post that..I appreciate it. That first one looks like the one comp recomended..but not for sure.

[superstreeter]

after running 1 season with the oval ports, in the 9.30-40 range, depending on air, with a best of a 9.298 et, at 143-145, again, depending on air, for the next season, I did nothing else, except change to a set of mildy ported Canfield 310's, same intake, except ported to a rectangle port, which was a Victor-O 4500, same cam, same everything, only change was the heads, the car ultimately ran 8.989 at 150, with a string of 9.0's. I didn't dyno the engine after the head swap. But, I did dyno it later, and it made about 70 more hp than the ovals.



"Thats about what I would figure..you picked up 3 1/2 - 10ths, and it took 70 hp,, thats 20 hp per 10th"

[Tod74]

after running 1 season with the oval ports, in the 9.30-40 range, depending on air, with a best of a 9.298 et, at 143-145, again, depending on air, for the next season, I did nothing else, except change to a set of mildy ported Canfield 310's, same intake, except ported to a rectangle port, which was a Victor-O 4500, same cam, same everything, only change was the heads, the car ultimately ran 8.989 at 150, with a string of 9.0's. I didn't dyno the engine after the head swap. But, I did dyno it later, and it made about 70 more hp than the ovals.



"Thats about what I would figure..you picked up 3 1/2 - 10ths, and it took 70 hp,, thats 20 hp per 10th"

but you contradicted yourself..in your post to me you said I needed 130 more hp to get into the 5's ( gain of 3 tenths)...then you said 20 hp per tenth.not complaining,just pointing it out :wink: although you did say in the quarter..not the eighth.


I ran a set of 781 steel heads, with larger valves and some porting, then upgraded to the afr 305s,,,the car ran .15 quicker, pretty disappointing,,so don`t get your hopes up,,I think your going to need an extra 130 hp to get that goal, I have found that once you get into the 10s - 1/4 mile,,it takes about 20 hp to get an extra 10th

[Tod74]

I wouldn;t get to carried away on the cam, but something in the low 280 at .050 on the intake, and upper 280 to low 290 on the exhaust, with .775 intake lift, and .714-.720 on the ex. I personaly would run a 112 lobe sep. With the tighter lobe sep, it should equal the mid range tq of the old cam, but, it will make more hp up top.

Have you considered just re-working the heads you already have? You said they are un-ported correct? If thats the case, for A LOT less than new heads, you could pick up a bunch of power that way. A cam change, maybe an intake change, to a super Victor, or the smaller profiler, I wouldn;t use the big profiler for 7000rpm, but, a Super Victor, with some minor plenumn work, a port job, maybe bigger intake valves, and a cam, and you would go high 5's. And, the cool part, you could say, they are just some old 074 aluminumn heads, when your beating guys with Dart, Brodix, etc. You couldn;t imagine, how mad guys got, from my above example, with the 049 oval ports, how mad guys would get, when they got trailered by old junk truck heads, when they were running their cnc'd this or thats.

Frank
Advanced Performance
www.get-ap.com

I missed this post before...but I don't think the heads are worth it really...They are 1970 castings I think..yes they are stock port wise..but they have been flat milled. They are due for new valves because they have been ground several times. etc.. I had problems with the intake not fitting,had to hog out the holes..the valve cover rail on one has been broken and then welded(doesn't hurt anything,but still...looks bad and makes it harder to get rid of em if I wanted to). The one good thing is the stud bosses have never been repaired...most I have seen usually have been welded on.I just can't see spending much money on a 37 year old set of heads. I have had these things for years and am tired of fooling with them.

[superstreeter]

But I was refering to your 1/8 mile stats, these other stats are for 1/4 mile,,,big difference here... 1/8 mile is only 1/2 of 1/4 mile,, so to pick up 3 10ths in the 1/8, you will need double the power of the 1/4 mile,,,I was not misleading you. 3 10ths X 20 X 2 =120 hp, I said about 130,,,so I`m off 10 hp,,,thats for extra assurance!

[Tod74]

But I was refering to your 1/8 mile stats, these other stats are for 1/4 mile,,,big difference here... 1/8 mile is only 1/2 of 1/4 mile,, so to pick up 3 10ths in the 1/8, you will need double the power of the 1/4 mile,,,I was not misleading you. 3 10ths X 20 X 2 =120 hp, I said about 130,,,so I`m off 10 hp,,,thats for extra assurance!

Actually that's what I figured you were saying...that why I added the comment about you saying 1/4 not 1/8 :D

[woodsman]

But I was refering to your 1/8 mile stats, these other stats are for 1/4 mile,,,big difference here... 1/8 mile is only 1/2 of 1/4 mile,, so to pick up 3 10ths in the 1/8, you will need double the power of the 1/4 mile,,,I was not misleading you. 3 10ths X 20 X 2 =120 hp, I said about 130,,,so I`m off 10 hp,,,thats for extra assurance!

Understand I am not trying to start anything are be mean but I ran the numbers two times and came up with the same thing of 2.5 hp on the 1/8th maybe I am wrong.

[Tod74]

But I was refering to your 1/8 mile stats, these other stats are for 1/4 mile,,,big difference here... 1/8 mile is only 1/2 of 1/4 mile,, so to pick up 3 10ths in the 1/8, you will need double the power of the 1/4 mile,,,I was not misleading you. 3 10ths X 20 X 2 =120 hp, I said about 130,,,so I`m off 10 hp,,,thats for extra assurance!

Understand I am not trying to start anything are be mean but I ran the numbers two times and came up with the same thing of 2.5 hp on the 1/8th maybe I am wrong.

what do you mean? Are you saying it takes 2.5 times the hp for a tenth in 1/8 vs tenth in the 1/4? wouldn't surprise me.

[woodsman]

JMO but with a maxed out set of good flowing heads you may make your goal of 5.90's. You are going to need around 70 or 80 more HP to get where you want to be. I hope you get what you want.

This is what I mean and I mean 2.5 hp not times and I can only give you what the numbers show.

[superstreeter]

I think we`ve beat this up enough,,lets just say if your running 1/8 mile-it takes about 40 hp to gain a 10th-in an average 6 sec. ride,,,and about 20 hp to gain a 10th in an average 10 sec ride. that should be simple enough,,I better be more careful about adding my .02 in the future,,,me on the other hand,,I like getting response from others,,and draw my own conclusion.

[Tod74]

I think we`ve beat this up enough,,lets just say if your running 1/8 mile-it takes about 40 hp to gain a 10th-in an average 6 sec. ride,,,and about 20 hp to gain a 10th in an average 10 sec ride. that should be simple enough,,I better be more careful about adding my .02 in the future,,,me on the other hand,,I like getting response from others,,and draw my own conclusion.

I value everyone's input....especially when they are answering a question that I asked. Add your .02 cents in anytime. :)

[bjuice]

i can't really intelligently comment on how much HP IT takes to pick up a tenth ( too many varibles here)..just like they say 100lbs equals 1/10..well yeah in a sence..your stuff has to be working 1st..but i feel the 1/8 miles has to do more with the TQ your making and when your making it ..such as shift points etc..George is proving this now by playing with his shorter shift points....

i run a 511ci...300lbs w/driver and wet ..500 gear...i have a LOT better head then you and i run a sucky intake ( team "g'") ( SOON TO BE CHANGED TO A 454-R)..

my 1st time out on foot brake i ran a 6.07 et with a 1.39 60 ft @115 mph..now remember this was my 1st time out ..getting bugs out, leaving soft ( anticpating everyting :shock: )....
i am going back tommorrow...now have a tranny break with 2 step hooked up......and i am looking for some mid-5.90's.....i have not got my 454r on the engine yet...but i am shooting for 5.85.or something around there with the 454-r intake....but let me get into the 5.90's 1st..lol :D

i am going to a track tommorrow i haven't been to with this car..i hear the track has not been good lately..so we shall see...

but to answer your question i feel 100% with a good set of out of the box or custom port head with the 454-r..you will go into the 5's..i say this because you and i are very close with our ci and body weight etc....

i will also say based on who i have been around and know in this game..i would not be afraid to say that a good set of worked heads with the 454r port matched intake will make an extra 100hp if not more......

something NO-ONE has mentioned..how much more TQ will this make ?

Curtis Boggs told me personally that his port work on the 454r..( base and gasket match) will allow for 20 to 30 more hp ( give or take) than just bolting it on out of box..

if you go to ALCOHOL in the summer or whenever..there is another 50 to 70 FT lbs of TQ just by turning to alcohol..( its a TQ MONSTER FUEL)..i am not running it but i have been studying the heck out of it and asking the right people the right questions..just as you are doing now...
as for the cam shaft...i run a lunati 722/722 with a 112 lobe seperation...very nice camshaft...if your interested i can try to scan the cam card and post it...

i think your headed right into the 5's my man !..

Brian

[Tod74]

i can't really intelligently comment on how much HP IT takes to pick up a tenth ( too many varibles here)..just like they say 100lbs equals 1/10..well yeah in a sence..your stuff has to be working 1st..but i feel the 1/8 miles has to do more with the TQ your making and when your making it ..such as shift points etc..George is proving this now by playing with his shorter shift points....

i run a 511ci...300lbs w/driver and wet ..500 gear...i have a LOT better head then you and i run a sucky intake ( team "g'") ( SOON TO BE CHANGED TO A 454-R)..

my 1st time out on foot brake i ran a 6.07 et with a 1.39 60 ft @115 mph..now remember this was my 1st time out ..getting bugs out, leaving soft ( anticpating everyting :shock: )....
i am going back tommorrow...now have a tranny break with 2 step hooked up......and i am looking for some mid-5.90's.....i have not got my 454r on the engine yet...but i am shooting for 5.85.or something around there with the 454-r intake....but let me get into the 5.90's 1st..lol :D

i am going to a track tommorrow i haven't been to with this car..i hear the track has not been good lately..so we shall see...

but to answer your question i feel 100% with a good set of out of the box or custom port head with the 454-r..you will go into the 5's..i say this because you and i are very close with our ci and body weight etc....

i will also say based on who i have been around and know in this game..i would not be afraid to say that a good set of worked heads with the 454r port matched intake will make an extra 100hp if not more......

something NO-ONE has mentioned..how much more TQ will this make ?

Curtis Boggs told me personally that his port work on the 454r..( base and gasket match) will allow for 20 to 30 more hp ( give or take) than just bolting it on out of box..

if you go to ALCOHOL in the summer or whenever..there is another 50 to 70 FT lbs of TQ just by turning to alcohol..( its a TQ MONSTER FUEL)..i am not running it but i have been studying the heck out of it and asking the right people the right questions..just as you are doing now...
as for the cam shaft...i run a lunati 722/722 with a 112 lobe seperation...very nice camshaft...if your interested i can try to scan the cam card and post it...

i think your headed right into the 5's my man !..

Brian

The cam I have was recomended by Crane and it seems to work ok...I did tell them I had factory heads so I figure they matched the cam to the crap heads. I am no cam expert so I don't really know the effect lsa has on the cam.I always thought the wider the lsa the broader the power curve...but like I said I don't know nearly as much as I should about cams.

[davebat]

Why can't we all just GET ALONG! J/K, nice reading folks! Great info

[Tod74]

Why can't we all just GET ALONG! J/K, nice reading folks! Great info

No...we can't get along. Anyone offering advice must scientifically prove it. (even though it is free advice ) :wink:


jk I really respect the level of experience and knowledge the people here have and am humbled by it.This really is a great board. thanks everybody for taking time to help me out as I have only been at this a few years and have much to learn.

[zipper06]

HeHe this is funny :lol:
5.'s is easy to get to with a b/blk, even at 3,000lbs plus. i donot understand what all the confusion is about. you need about 7.50 lift with 350cfm flow and it 's there with a 3,000lb car, with the right converter and gear.
Been there and done that.

Zip.

[Tod74]

HeHe this is funny :lol:
5.'s is easy to get to with a b/blk, even at 3,000lbs plus. i donot understand what all the confusion is about. you need about 7.50 lift with 350cfm flow and it 's there with a 3,000lb car, with the right converter and gear.
Been there and done that.

Zip.

Zipper wouls the AFR 345 head be too big for this engine at 7000 rpm? Should I get a 325's or the 345's?