PDA

View Full Version : SBC HEAD STUDS


et7333
09-21-2007, 05:41 AM
Does it create any additional distortion if you use head studs in a fresh block that was torgue plate with head bolts?

Racefab57
09-21-2007, 03:48 PM
Thats probably a question for ED, but I dont think it would be much different! especially when torque plates were used.But maybe ED will chime in, Id like to know if Im correct or not ,David.

bjuice
09-21-2007, 06:28 PM
1st off the main use of a torque plate is to insure the cylinders keep the roundness during honing and/or block filling...ETC....
i do not see where head studs would have any bearing on the block what-so-ever in reference to the question you ask......a BIG mistake many do make when using studs is that they screw the stud very tight into the block with a allen wrench...when this happens it really takes away from the compression advantage a stud gives...the proper way to install a stud is to srew the stud into the block hand tight preferly so when you put the bolt on it has has a very strong compression factor as the high tensil steel pulls the thread (s) together from the block side and the head side.. as i mentioned above if someone tightens down on the studs until they bottom out with an allen wrench until they cannot turn anymore..it then acts the same as a regular head bolt..and no better then a head bolt at that point

just be sure to put proper sealer on the threads entering the block ( many opinions here i personally use mega black gasket sealer with no leaks) when placing the head on the block follow the Tq Pattern the head calls for..also be sure to use 30 wt oil or the recommended ARP lube between the washer and the nut so you get a nice even pull which ensures your TQ reading..

i know i added a little more info than you ask for but rather give it to you just in case you did not know.

Brian

zipper06
09-21-2007, 07:02 PM
UhOh, another good discussion!!,
BJ and i think a lot a like be we differ on this one and i'm sure some of the engine builders will also.
First thing chamfer the top of the thread and bottom tap all the block holes. Then clean the holes out like they have herpes.
Set the head on the block and using blue locktite, screw each stud in until you have 1/8 inch of the stud above the nut and washer without the head gasket. pull the head off and let the locktite setup for a day. Then install gaskets and head you should have equal length studs thru out the cyclinder head, then torque to specs.. Distortation come from unequal stud lengths and bottoming out of bolt/studs in the block. Just screwing the stud to the bottom of the thread too hard will distort the cylinder bores, whether plate honed or not.

JMO

Zip.

bjuice
09-21-2007, 07:20 PM
Zip...i read your reply and i do not see where we differ that much...you might need to re-read my post..most of it was saying what you SHOULD NOT DO..could be confusing if you read over it fast.....other than i do not go the loc-tight route.....
now when i placed the head studs on my big block this past time with Big broadie heads you had to buy the head studs for that type head..they were all different lengths....but now this was Big block stuff..

but help me with understanding where this would effect the TQ plate senerio ?..as lomg as you have equal amount of threads at the top of the head with the proper TQing per stud and pattern,,where could it go wrong...

but i am still missing something here ???? :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: ..

lets discuss this a little more ?...


you been doing this a heck of a lot longer than me i am also willing to learn a thing or two..( with all respect)

thanks Brian

performanceengin
09-22-2007, 05:17 AM
in my years of engine building i have never loctited studs. just a coat of pst thread sealant and just snug down. just my .02 worth

zipper06
09-22-2007, 06:38 AM
The reason i use blue locktite is because it is a sealant,(some holes go to water) and doesn't set up hard. We all know that the holes are never tapped the same depth and in my opinion you should never bottom a stud out in the the block, that's where the distorsion begins. i guess that was all i was trying to say.
Sorry BJ we're thinking alike. :)

Zip.

et7333
09-22-2007, 06:58 AM
Thanks for the info-I have two head bolt threads in the block that are bad and my engine builder was just going to put studs in the block.I'm having him put TIME SERTS in the two holes with a jig so they are straight and use head bolts,he has performed this procedure with success.What do you think of this procedure?

billhendren
09-22-2007, 07:50 AM
Studs will distort the deck or main caps different than bolts.the reason is they have fine threads on the top of the stud 7/16 x 14 in the block and 7/16 x 20 on the stud. the fine threads have more leverage than coarse threads in the block so the clamp load is higher than with a bolt at the same torque.if you check a main bearing bore with bolts then install studs you will see the distortion,same with the cylinder except the cylinder distorts more than the mains.Bill

zipper06
09-22-2007, 08:44 AM
(7/16 x 18 in the block)

Bill, i think you meant 7/16 X 14 threads in the blk.

Zip.

hink
09-23-2007, 04:30 AM
Studs will distort the deck or main caps different than bolts.the reason is they have fine threads on the top of the stud 7/16 x 18 in the block and 7/16 x 20 on the stud. the fine threads have more leverage than coarse threads in the block so the clamp load is higher than with a bolt at the same torque.if you check a main bearing bore with bolts then install studs you will see the distortion,same with the cylinder except the cylinder distorts more than the mains.Bill

I agree a 100% on stud distortion and bolt distortion.

Racefab57
09-23-2007, 12:22 PM
Lots of answers, One thing I know is I dont use lock tite and i dont EVER screw a stud down tight in a hole! my first answer with the torque plate part was I was just thinking about bolt vs. stud . that was in one of the answers sorta,,,.... I didlearn some things as always!!!! David. p.s. I also didnt mean to leave anyone else out as far as engine guys go! THERE IS A LOT OF TALENT IN THIS FORUM THAT IM VERY PROUD TO KNOW !!!!!!!! David.

billhendren
09-24-2007, 05:10 AM
(7/16 x 18 in the block)

Bill, i think you meant 7/16 X 14 threads in the blk.

Zip.
. Long day, thanks Bill

racear2865
09-25-2007, 06:04 AM
Hey:
I get to add my two cents worth(all its worth). Been in industries for 38 years with numerous engineers with stud and bolts. Bill is correct on his analysis of the advantages of studs.The fine threads at the top (7/16-20) does provide more clamp force than a 7/16 bolt. At one time I calculated the additional force but too much time and too many beers have gone over the damn. This is one of the reasons that we profisise studs. Also we never tighten the shoulder of the stud into the hole. We use conservative amount of blue Loctite and install stud to shoulder and back off 1/4 turn. We then install head and torque to 40 ft lbs and let set over night ant then disassemble. This forces the stud to be held to the top of the threads and is straight. There are other advantages to studs but yall get the crux of my intent. Don't get me wrong I do not profess to be and expert. Far from. Just our way and nothing more.
sorry for the dissertation
racear

Timmyboy86
10-01-2007, 05:37 AM
be carfull when buying head studs i bought a set for std small block chevy heads and i have dart heads some of the bolts are hard to get to because of the large spring diameter i'd go for 12 point.