best cam break in oil

[sixpak]

Best soild lifter break in oil? I've never lost a cam yet, and never have broken one in....yet. This time as allways I used TORCO MPZ on all lobes and gears. I HAVE for the first time removed my inner springs. In the past I've not ever removed the inner springs or ran at 2500 for any amount of time. With all the talk about additves being removed and people using Rotella before it changed as well what is my best bet? After break in I'll use what I allways have, Mobil One synthetic. Thanks for your help.

[hink]

We use the Brad Penn oil http://www.bradpennracing.com/ and you may want to check on the Mobil 1 oil as it has also changed for the bad and is not really recomended for flat tappet cams any more.

Remember if the oil container does not say racing oil on it don't use it with flat tappet cams.

We have always used the AMSOIL in our racing engines we have built for years and so far non of aur customers have had any oil related problems.

On all the SBC cams we buy we order the P-55 cores which is the performance core and we use the tool steel lifters and I have heard that the Johnson lifter are a good choice as well.

Some times if you have good quality lifter and a good cam core it does not matter how its broke in as it may not last.

[billhendren]

Check out Joe Gibbs oil,they have spcl break in oil as well as full synthetic that is great with flat tappet or roller cams Bill .www.shop.joegibbsracingoil.com

[edvancedengines]

Carl,
We have a little disagreement here in what you recommend and what I am now recommending after me spending quite a lot of tiume doing some oil and filter research.

Don't disagree about the changes in Mobil 1 though.

Remember if the oil container does not say racing oil on it don't use it with flat tappet cams.


I find this to be the opposite now. To me, it is my opinion that about the only thing that is now racing quality about what is labeled as racing oils is the price you pay. All of them have recently and also over time gone downhill. I used to believe and buy into the whole anti-foaming idea and the 100% Pure Pennsylvania crude etc. Now Valvoline, Pensoil, Castor-oil etc have removed the additives we need in performance engines from oils labeled as racing oils.

It might come back to bite me but I have recently maybe a month ago changed all my guys over to using Fleet Grade oIls of Chevron Dello 400 Multi-grade or the Shell Rotella T HD in the 15-40. NOT THE LE or LOW EMMISIONS CRAP>

Anything rated less than the 10 it begins with is getting extra solvents added as thinners. All refined oil begins at 10 w and when additives are included goes up to a 15w. .

Read the piece I wrote on SpeedTalk about this in the General Discussion section. My sources of informatuion came from an Oil Systems anylist whom is not only a chemical engineer but is listed in the Who is who, of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). He also sells his own brand of racing oils, so he benefits none by telling me about the fleet oils.

Ed

[hink]

Carl,
We have a little disagreement here in what you recommend and what I am now recommending after me spending quite a lot of tiume doing some oil and filter research.

Don't disagree about the changes in Mobil 1 though.

Remember if the oil container does not say racing oil on it don't use it with flat tappet cams.


I find this to be the opposite now. To me, it is my opinion that about the only thing that is now racing quality about what is labeled as racing oils is the price you pay. All of them have recently and also over time gone downhill. I used to believe and buy into the whole anti-foaming idea and the 100% Pure Pennsylvania crude etc. Now Valvoline, Pensoil, Castor-oil etc have removed the additives we need in performance engines from oils labeled as racing oils.

It might come back to bite me but I have recently maybe a month ago changed all my guys over to using Fleet Grade oIls of Chevron Dello 400 Multi-grade or the Shell Rotella T HD in the 15-40. NOT THE LE or LOW EMMISIONS CRAP>

Anything rated less than the 10 it begins with is getting extra solvents added as thinners. All refined oil begins at 10 w and when additives are included goes up to a 15w. .

Read the piece I wrote on SpeedTalk about this in the General Discussion section. My sources of informatuion came from an Oil Systems anylist whom is not only a chemical engineer but is listed in the Who is who, of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). He also sells his own brand of racing oils, so he benefits none by telling me about the fleet oils.

Ed

The deisel oils were good until the past years as they now have lowered there standards compared the the oils they were producing years ago.

I deal with a lot of other shops accross the U.S. and I have heard nothing but good results using the Brad Penn oil which is the old green Kendell oil for breaking in flat tappet.

[sixpak]

Thanks for all the opinions. I believe that I will try to contact BRAD PENN. As I do more "research" looks as if my best bet is to find an oil that does not meet the "API" ratings. Looks as if BRAD PENN is one and Royal Purple may be another.

[woodsman]

sixpak if it rotates put in Royal Purple its the only way to go.

[cepx111]

I use Rotella T 15w 40, not near as pricey and hard to get as the afore mentioned BRAD PENN, not saying it is better just works for me and I can get it at Walmart, CHEAP.
Add one can of STP oil treament at break in and you'll have enough zinc and other additives to break in any flat tappet cam.
Goodluck, Charles

[Racefab57]

What about red line oil? for synthetic oils, Ive used them with good luck .

[stevehgs]

Also, if it says "Energy Conserving" on the label, it might as well say Cam Killer...

[edvancedengines]

Low Emmisions or LE on an oil container means it is not for racing. Never have seen emissions junk that helps performance.

Problem with racing oils that are rated at 0 w. How do you think it got from 10w down to 0? It begins at 0 w. After additives are added at the minimum it will go up one count or by 5 w rating. That makes it to be a 15 w. W is not weight it is WINTER Ratings. So the only way I know of for oil to go down to a 0 W rating is with added solvents. IN other words watered down with solvents. No thank you for me.

If you are trying out the Rotella T be wary if it says Low Emmisions or LE on the package. If you are trying the Dello Be wary about LE or Low Emmisions. Shell Rotella T HD and Dello MUlti-Grade both in 15w-40 ratings.

And here is the real kicker.
None of us that are not a chemist or oil systems analyst have no way to know for certain.

Ed