My 510 is a former SCCA car now set up for vintage racing as a B-Sedan. It has been thoroughly refreshed and runs like a top. Only reason is selling is due to a non-racing accident. This race car is just a blast to drive.
This is a description of the engine from the builder, Jeff Winter:
0.020” was milled from the deck surface of the SSS head to raise compression ratio. .040”
over bore high compression JE pistons were installed resulting in a compression ratio of
about 13:1 . “Long rod “ Carrillo rods were installed. Your cam is a new grind of mine that
will produce a nice broad power band with plenty of torque and a horsepower peak near
7,500 rpm. Driveable power range will be 5,500 min to 8,000 rpm. Your shifting points
will generally be 7,000 to 7,500 but it will take 8,000 when needed. This was ground on a
billet cam so a cam spray bar was installed to lubricate the cam. Original cam was
internally oiled thru the cam towers and then thru the hollow cam. Valve clearance will be
.010 intake and .012 exh………. Warm. I would suggest checking your valve clearances
before each race. Clearance checking should be measured between rocker arm and cam
base circle heel. Measure with cam lobe sticking straight up. You can usually do two lobes
at a time before rotating cam. Generally they will remain in good shape for several races
however it`s a good thing to get used to the procedure and it will also head off any potential
cam or valve train issues.
Running oil pressure will show 60 to 70 psi .hot. The indicated oil pressure on your O.P.
gage will indicate about ten psi less that what is being produced in the engine due to the
cam spray bar oil supply location. The oil pressure can be adjusted by adding or subtracting
washers between the oil pressure relief piston spring and the exterior retainer nut/fitting.
Idle oil pressure on a hot engine will be low.... maybe even 20 psi but when you rev it up, oil
pressure will come right up.
The spark plugs are installed with indexing washers for necessary clearance between
plugs and pistons. The combustion chambers have been modified extensively for better
flow. Be careful when you remove spark plugs………. Washers are required to be there,
DO NOT LOSE THEM.
The exhaust ports and chambers of the head have been redone for better flow.
I would recommend 36-40 mm carb venturis. Exhaust gas temps should be 1,200 to 1,300
degrees for best power. Main jet sizes will be 160 to 170 with air correctors in the 160 to
180 range. These jetting recommendations are just that…….. a starting point. Mixtures can
be changed significantly throughout the rpm range with changes of both main and air jets.
Don`t hesitate to call me for any questions you may have . (Greg Wold note: I can’t
remember the exact venturis, but think I used 38’s..... You will need to look down the throat
of the carb to see what they are stamped)
Coolant temperatures should be in the 180 to 200 degree range for best power. 220
degrees is ok but really should run cooler. Coolant temps have never been a problem ………
a good aluminum radiator ( VW rabbit / Scirroco unit works well ) and oil cooler should be
Make sure that the timing is set for 36 degrees maximum advance at 4,500 rpm. The front
pulley is marked at tdc and 36 degrees.
Be sure to fill all oil hoses , coolers and filter with new oil before you start the engine for
the first time. I also prime the oil gallery in the block from the outside with a good oil
squirt can thru the oil filter boss. I use Valvoline 10W-40 `All Season` for break in. When
starting , bring the engine up to a steady 2,000 ……… do not let engine idle slowly on start
up. Bring up to 180 degrees and shut engine off. Let it cool back down to 140 or so before
starting up again. Make sure to use a fan to keep things cool. An idling speed of 1,600 is
fine. When starting up a hot engine, it is best to hold the throttle fully open till the engine
catches. Your technique may vary.
The car also features an MSD box for ignition
Straight pipe exhaust with tubular headers
Engine is almost new
Original front 10” discs, rear drums converted to 9.5” disc
Original single-piston front calipers with Porterfield pads, single-piston Maxima
rear sliding calipers with Hawk back pads
Dual-circuit master cylinder
Rear brake bias lever in cockpit
Wheels & Tires
13 x 8” Panasport, Aluminum wheels
Hoosier TD R tires
Original steel tub
Fiberglass front fenders with flares
Steel rear fenders with fiberglass flares
Fiberglass trunk lid
Fiberglass front BRE lip spoiler
Full cage with door bars, tied into front strut towers per period SCCA rules
Total weight without driver: ~1860lbs
Original front lower control arms and struts with adjustable coilovers
Fully adjustable rear semi-trailing arms
Upgraded front sway bar
Adjustable front camber plates
Removable 14” NRG race steering wheel
Instrumentation including tachometer, oil pressure, water temperature, fuel
pressure, EGT, and air/fuel ratio
Master shutoff switch
Ignition switch, dual fuel pump switches, alternator activator switch, electric fan
switch, and air/fuel gauge on/off switch
5-speed Nissan close-ratio gearbox
Reverse not functional, no issues with forward gears
Limited slip R160 differential
New fire system
10 or 12 gallon fuel cell in trunk
Car is legal for SVRA or any other vintage club
Car comes with a small assortment of spares including a spare gearbox