CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK MOTOR 550HP - $7,595

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CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595 CHEVY TURN KEY SBC 421 STAGE 4.0 DART BLOCK  MOTOR 550HP  for Sale $7,595
$7,595
Business Seller - Skip White Performance
Kingsport, TN
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Ad Number183157210
ConditionNew

Description

SBC CHEVY TURN KEY STAGE 4.0 HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM 421 ENGINE 550 HP STREET ROD SETUP.
RUNS ON PREMIUM PUMP GAS.

This ad may have references to pictures and graphs that are not visible in the description. To see this ad in it's complete form please visit our actual website. www.skipwhiteperformance.com

Pictured below is our turn key engine with the single plane intake. The second picture further down in the add shows it with the optional dual plane intake. We also offer these intakes with a polished finish as an upgrade.

DART SHP BLOCK WITH SPLAYED MAIN CAPS.
FORGED WISECO PISTONS, SCAT 3.875 STROKE CRANK, AND 6.0 SCAT RODS NKB ALUMINUM HEADS.

THE ENGINE IS COMPLETE AS SHOWN FROM CARBURETOR TO OIL PAN. EDELBROCK PREMIUM PLUG WIRES ARE INCLUDED BUT NOT INSTALLED.
Pictured below shows the engine with the dual plane intake manifold. Polished finish also available as an upgrade.

Introducing our Turn Key Stage 4.0 Roller cam 421 cid 550 hp engine.
OUR STAGE 4.0 ENGINES ARE QRP RATED.
- DART SHP BLOCK WITH SPLAYED MAIN CAPS. COMMONLY USED IN ENGINES BUILT TO 800+ HORSE POWER.
- NKB ALUMINUM ALLOY HEADS
- HOWARDS ROLLER CAM AND TIE BAR STREET STRIP ROLLER LIFTERS. A CUT ABOVE THE OTHERS.
- SA GEAR BILLET TIMING SET WITH TORRINGTON BEARING AND ROLON CHAIN 9 KEYWAY. TOP OF THE LINE.
- COMP ALUMINUM ROLLER ROCKERS 1.5 OR 1.6 RATIO.
- SCAT CRANKSHAFT, CLEVITE BEARINGS. BALANCED ON OUR CWT BALANCER TO BELOW 2 GRAMS.
- SCAT COMPETITION SERIES RODS WITH 7/16 ARP 8740 CAP SCREWS.
- WISECO PREMIUM FORGED PISTONS 2618 ALLOY. 800+HP RATED.
- QUICKFUEL SL SERIES 4 BARREL CARB 600 OR 750 CFM DEPENDING ON CAM CHOICE.
- MELLING M-SELECT SERIES OIL PUMP WITH M-SELECT DRIVE ROD.
- CHAMP CUSTOM OIL PAN WITH OIL CONTROL SYSTEM.
- ALUMINUM WATER PUMP WITH ALUMINUM IMPELLER.
- PRO-RACE BRAND SFI DAMPER.
- TWO YEAR WARRANTY.
Two year warranty, see details below.
This engine is designed to have a high level of drivability, or street manners. Cams #3 and #4 are our favorites for offering exceptional low end and mid range performance plus max drivability without needing to deepen final gearing or the need for a high stall speed torque converter.

The many pictures of our Turn Key engine are provided to show you how it looks from different angles. This is a file photo.
If you choose to go with the Hurricane single plane intake and the first choice cam with 1.6 rockers, it will bring the hp numbers up to approx. 540. We do not recommend the single plane intake combined with cam choice 1 on any car that is over approx 3,200 lbs and/or cars with a steep (tall) final gear.
Please read the cam info provided below on the four cam choices before purchasing this engine. It is very important that you choose the correct cam and intake for your car and its intended purpose.
Here are a few good reasons why we think the 421 engine is a better choice than the 383 or 406 engine.

1. The 421 will accelerate most medium to heavy cars dramatically quicker than the common 383's or 406 engines on the market. The main difference between a 421 and the 383 is that the 421 torque comes in much lower. The difference is so dramatic that you would estimate the engine to have a much higher horse power rating than it actually has. If you're not familiar with the 421 engine, do an internet search on SBC 421 vs 383, and you will be convinced of the difference. There is no inherent weakness in the 421engine when using a Dart high performance block. These engines are built to last. All parts used have much higher hp ratings than this engine is producing.
2. The exhaust note that this engine produces is much deeper than that of any of the smaller cubic inch engines on the market. The difference is dramatic to say the least.
3. This engine can be installed in medium to heavier cars without killing acceleration, having to deepen the final gear, and needing a huge stall converter. This engine will accelerate a 3600 lb or heavier car much better than the 350, 383 or 406
4. Very low maintenance, decent drivability, yet costing only slightly more than building a 383 or 406 street rod engine. Horse power will vary, depending on cam, carb and intake choice. You have up to four different cams to choose from, and two styles of intake manifolds plus two rocker ratios.
5. Longevity, reliability and low maintenance. You don't have to turn the engine to a critical rpm range to produce its max hp output. There is nothing unsafe about running an engine that's as well built as this up to approx. 6,200 rpm. Our NKB aluminum heads use very high quality hardware. The new Dart Super High Performance block would be indestructible if built to the power rating of this engine. The Wiseco Racing pistons are rated at 800+hp. The protection against detonation is at its highest with these type pistons.
6. Should you ever decide to sell your car, the resale value of a street rod with a 421 engine is very desirable compared to those running 383's or 406's No 383 or 406 can be built up to the level of a 421 while running pump gas with the same compression. The power and torque numbers down low in the rpm band are what make the 421 such an incredible engine, compared to the others.

We do a full test run on every engine we build on a test mule. The engine is run for two intervals of 15 minutes each, and every possible issue is addressed. When you install the engine, you must verify that the timing is set at the correct value, and the fuel to air ratio must be verified. We also include an engine stand like the one pictured, wheels included, and an engine lift plate.
As of 9/15/2013 we completed installation of our brand new Super Flow 902S dyno. In the past, we outsourced our dyno work. We were unable to do the research and development we truly wanted, and this prompted us to make the $105,000 investment. It's been one of the best investments we have ever made. Every aspect of our engines can now be monitored, calibrated, and tuned. Best of all, we can now see what combos generate the best power, with consideration to drivability.

One thing we have noticed is that the de-tuned engines with different cam and intake combos certainly do have less top end horse power than expected, but the torque increase in the low rpm range is much greater than in the higher horsepower setup. This increase in torque down low is what you want if you're sporting around on the street, rather than all out racing. The de-tuned version of this engine will also allow you to set the car up closer to stock and increase drivability to a very high degree. Throttle response is also noticeably better.

The build sheet is as follows:
Pictured below is the new Dart SHP block. This block is the absolute ultimate in quality, durability, and value.

Block Specs.
Dart SHP block, splayed caps

The block is bored to size with our new Centroid touch probe machine. Few machine shops have a machine of this accuracy.

We also deck the blocks to an RA finish of approx. 15 or better. The decking procedure is also done by our Centroid CNC machine.

We often find many brand new blocks to have a sloping deck of up to 4 thous. When we're finished decking the block, it is within approx. .001 accuracy from end to end. Many machine shops fail to catch this as the machinery they use does not allow for such accuracy.

We then plate hone the block with our new Sunnen SV10 diamond hone machine. This is also a very advanced machine that hones the block with a finish unlike conventional machines.

The final step is to clean the block in our high pressure block washer.
Pictured below is the rotating assembly that comes in this engine.
(file photo, actual parts may vary, see details below)

The photos above and below are file photos. Actual appearance may vary. This picture is to give you an idea of parts used in the rotating assembly portion of this engine. All parts are brand new, first line, unblemished, and balanced in house.
READ THIS LISTING COMPLETELY BEFORE YOU BUY ELSEWHERE!
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Crankshaft Specs.
Crankshaft: Genuine Scat
Crankshaft Stroke: 3.875"
Crankshaft Material : 4340 Fully Forged
Journal Diameter: STD SBC
Rear Main Seal: 2pc RMS
Connecting Rod Specs.
Rods: Genuine Scat
Rod Type: Scat I-beam, Competition Series
Rod Length: 6.0
Rod Material: Forged 4340 Alloy.
Rod Bolt/Cap Screw: ARP 8740 7/16 Cap Screws.
Piston & Ring Specs.
Pistons: Wiseco Fully Forged. High Performance for street/strip use.
Piston Size: 4.155"
Dome Volume: RD D-cup Dish. Comp. ratio calculates out to approx. 10.5:1
Compression Height: 1.080
Piston Material: Forged 2618 Aircraft Alloy
Piston Rings: Mahle High Performance, Moly, Standard Tension.
Ring Size and Fit: 1.5m 1.5m 3.0m
Ring Material: Ductile Iron/Cast/Stainless/Moly
Bearing, Damper, and Flexplate Specs.
Main Bearings: Clevite
Rod Bearings: Clevite
Balance: In House on CWT balancer.
Damper: Pro-Race brand SFI 6.75" Internally balanced.
Flexplate: Heavy Duty SFI 168 tooth or 153 tooth. Manual Trans. flywheels available. Internally balanced.
WISECO FULLY FORGED PISTONS, RATED AT 800+ HP. WISECO PISTONS ARE 100% MANUFACTURED IN THE USA. THEY ARE ONE OF THE HIGHEST RATED PISTON BUILDERS IN THE COUNTRY.

Our Wiseco Forged pistons are custom designed with an increase in compression height. This has many advantages. Here are a few facts about compression height and deck height.
Our custom made pistons have a compression height that is .010 taller on bbc pistons, and .015 taller on sbc pistons, as compared to most all of the catalog pistons on the market. We find this to be a very valuable feature. Since our pistons sit at a taller than normal compression height, we only have to remove approx. .005-.010 off the deck surface of the block. Our goal is set the piston at zero deck (flush with the deck surface). This maintains the deck's thickness, making it much stronger than a block that has been cut down .025. The engine will also run a bit cooler with a thicker deck. It's well known that the deck dissipates much of the built up heat an engine generates. This also allows for future deck re-surfacing without compromising the integrity of the block. On our bbc engines, we actually leave the piston about .003 to .005 in the hole to allow for possible piston rock. Our sbc engines will have the pistons setting right at zero with the deck.

You may have noticed that our Wiseco custom made forged pistons are referred to as Racing Pistons on the package. This does not mean that the pistons are for racing only. This is a generic term, referring to their ability to be used in high performance applications as well as for street rod use. These pistons are perfectly designed for use on the street, as well as for medium to upper level drag racing.

We have built approximately 5000 engines using the Wiseco pistons. The engines have been for street rod and strip use. We have seen no problems, nor have there been any complaints. They are an excellent product in every respect.

These pistons are also suitable for use with nitrous or blower setups.
The Wiseco forged pistons are rated very high in the street/strip performance industry. They are made using the 2618 aircraft alloy and have fully machined crowns. We prefer the 2618 alloy over the lower cost 4032 alloy. This alloy may fragment from the effects of detonation and if this happens, it can be very destructive to the engine. Those types of pistons are fine for stock or mild engine builds, but should never be used in carbureted engines built to high horse power levels. The forged 2618 alloy piston is much more resistant to the effects of detonation and heat.

The picture below is a file photo of our Wiseco piston. Flash glare on the piston top seems to have enhanced the milling marks. These are hardly visible with the naked eye.

MAHLE RINGS

Scat 4340 Forged Crankshaft
The picture below is a generic file photo of a Scat crankshaft.

Some of the benefits of the Scat crankshaft:
The material used in this crankshaft is manufactured from an exclusive Space Age material that was designed for high strength and fatigue resistance. The Scat cranks are the best value you will ever find. The Scat crankshafts are the best way to build a strong bottom end for, street rods, dirt and circle track racing, and drag strip racing.
Crank Polishing.
Pictured below is our ABS crank polishing machine in action. We polish the crank on every engine we build. This extends bearing life, keeps oil cooler, and with the reduced friction, a slight increase in horsepower is gained. Many machine shops fail to do this. The finish on most cranks are at the bare minimum of acceptance, and we know this can affect bearing life. We have measured the RA finish with our profilometer, and found it to be as high as 25 RA finish on many of the cranks. We bring that number down considerably.

We now use the Clevite bearings Hp in our 421 engines.

Our choice of rods are the SCAT COMPETITION SERIES rods with ARP-8740 cap screws.

The Scat Pro-Comp extreme duty I-beam rods should not be mistaken for ProComp rods. These rods are made exclusively by Scat, and have nothing to do with the ProComp company. The critical sizing and installation of the ARP cap screws is performed on a Sunnen machine in the USA by Scat Industries. These rods are excellent for those wanting the extra security offered by a rod with 7/16 ARP cap screws.
Take notice of the design of these rods. They are far superior to conventional style I-beam rods. We are now using this rod in all of our Stage 4 and up SBC engines. We also use this rod in our big block 505/540/555 engines, making approx. 700+hp.
If you do a search on the Scat Pro-Comp rods, you will find a vast amount of info on many car forums. All of the info is 100% positive. These rods are run in engines that not only produce high horsepower levels, but also run at continuous RPM. Notice the general appearance in the pictures. These rods do look impressive. The style is reminiscent of a steel billet rod.
The fact that these rods are incredibly strong and well made, coupled with the fact they are light weight and offer better clearance than any H-Beam rod on the market, made it an easy decision to use them in all of our high horsepower street/strip engines.
We use genuine Scat rods with ARP cap screws in all of our engines. Our Scat rods are bronze bushed, and unlike Eagle I beam rods, these are fully forged 4340 alloy.
We have noticed some engine builders using low cost generic rods and crankshafts in their engines. These non-branded, (no-name) products are often poor quality in many ways. You will notice many of the low end engine builders fail to mention the actual brand of the rods or cranks used in their engines. Upon further investigation you will find such parts not to be a branded name product. They may label these parts with a name, but one that is totally unrecognizable in the industry. Our experience in years past with such rods and cranks has been disappointing to say the least. Besides the obvious issues such as incorrect sizing and machining that is difficult to correct, the questionable alloy these items may be produced from and the potentially incorrect heat treating methods used, could prove to be disastrous. Little can be done to verify this and nothing can be done to correct it. Failures of such critical parts will usually result in catastrophic damage to the engine. As you may have noticed, this is why we specify the brand name and series of every part used in our engines.
Genuine ARP 8740 cap screws.

PRO RACE BRAND SFI HARMONIC DAMPER, 6.75 DIAMETER INCLUDED.

Pro-Race brand dampers are used on all of our engines.

INTERNALLY BALANCED, SFI rated, 6.75" DIAMETER REDUCED ROTATIONAL MASS, OFFERS EXCELLENT CLEARANCE.

1.52" THICKNESS, 2.38" THICKNESS WITH HUB

BILLET ALUMINUM TIMING POINTER. FEW SELLERS FINISH OFF THEIR TURN KEY ENGINES AS WE DO.

We did not offer this billet timing pointer in the past. However, we noticed that there was a birds-eye view of the timing pointer from the driver side of the engine, so we decided to use these on all of our engines.

HEAVY DUTY SFI RATED FLEXPLATE MADE IN THE USA INCLUDED.

This SFI flexplate is made in the USA and will resist cracking and warpage to a very high degree. One good telltale in identifying a low quality flexplate is the lack of welding on each side where the plate mates to the ring gear. They usually have a pale grey color to them, as they are not coated, and will rust quickly. Ours are welded on both sides, and are much thicker than an OE plate, and are zinc dichromate coated.
We do offer this engine with a manual flywheel. In most cases we do have both sizes, 153 and 168 tooth, available.
Our CWT 5500 Balancer.
We do our own balancing with our new state of the art CWT 5500 Series balancers. The CWT 5500 is the ultimate for precision balancing. We now have three of these in our machine shop. We consider this machine to be highly advanced compared to the Hines balancer we once used. We balance every rotating assembly we sell within 2 grams or less at no extra charge. A balance sheet is included with your engine.

Three new CWT balance machines under one roof is a rare sight.

Our crew wrapping up for the day. Pardon the mess.
NKB 200cc ALUMINUM HEADS

Our new NKB-200 heads have been designed especially for us. After receiving many recommendations from our engine builders, we came up with the best quality, best flowing heads on the market relative to cost. The only way you're going to get a set of heads that flow as well or better will be to spend at least double the cost or more. We have installed these heads on all of our 383, 406 and 421 engines for the past two years. Many of these engines were dynoed on our new Superflo dyno. The engines had every possible combination of cam, intake and carb. The results have been amazing. These heads are excellent in design and quality. Our choice of hardware and precision assembly also contribute to the performance and reliability of the heads.

We use Comp brand springs that have a 1.46 diameter, with an internal damper, and are made in the USA. Others are using springs that are much smaller in diameter. Smaller diameter springs may be in the correct spring pressure zone, but they are usually very short lived.

We use only Comp Super 10 degree machined locks. Our head builder noticed the low grade locks on the market fit looser than he felt they should, not to mention the possibility that they are made of inferior metal. He envisioned the engine being much more prone to dropping a valve at high rpm. We have yet to have an engine drop a valve due to a valve lock failure.
We hone every guide in the heads with a ball berry flex hone to establish not only perfect clearance, but also a semi cross hatch finish for oil retention. We finish off with a natural bristle brush. The heads are then placed in our parts washer and cleaned with high pressure hot water, then pressure dried. This procedure is not performed at the factory due to the fact some engine/head builders prefer to establish the valve to guide clearance and finish in different ranges. Before installing the valves, we apply a heavy coat of engine assembly lube to the valve stems.
Our next step is to set the spring pressure to a predetermined pressure using a spring height checking device, most suitable for street rod use. The springs we are using allow for a near perfect seat to nose ratio. Be warned that some sellers of aftermarket heads may not be checking the installed height when assembling the heads, and may not be setting them up to the correct pressures. We have a full scale machine shop with several very knowledgeable engine builders that know and fully understand how to properly assemble a set of heads. Combine the possibility of poor assembly methods with incorrect or low grade hardware, and it is easy to see how failures can result.

In the flowchart below, the NKB-200s are superior to the Procomp heads in flow rates, and also edge out the Dart SHP heads on the intake side. The intake numbers are far more important than the exhaust. The overall average flow numbers on the NKB-200 heads are higher than most any brand of non cnc'd cast aluminum heads on the market.

The difference in horse power and torque generated by the NKB heads is monumental compared to most all of the low cost sbc heads on the market. We offer four different cam choices with our 421 engine.

Here is a rundown on the hardware we are using in the NKB heads.
The retail cost at most High Performance stores on the PBM valves is $239

We are now using the Competition Series PBM valves in all of our engines. These are considered a high end valve. These valves have an undercut and backcut feature.
The backcut feature reduces valve weight by an average of 12.5 grams per valve. This weight reduction of approx. 208 grams off the complete set of valves has a monumental effect on acceleration, deceleration, and valve train life. It may be difficult to understand how this works, but rest assured, this is a huge reduction. The valve spring compression and rebound action will remain stable for a much longer time running lighter weight valves, as well as reducing valve float.
The backcut feature is not be mistaken for undercut. These valves have both features. Backcutting is an additional radius, but located on the head of the valve to increase the flow numbers and reduce valve weight. The flow increase is approx. 3-6 points on the flow bench, and possibly more, depending on the initial flow rate of the heads.
According to one of our machinists who built Winston Cup engines for 15 years, the exhaust valves had an additional radius cut on the outermost edge that allowed a better escape of the exhaust gas. This cut on the exhaust valve is in addition to the back-cut feature. The competition series are made from a much higher temp alloy than most other stainless valves. There are at least three levels of stainless valves on the market, excluding those used in very high level racing such as pro-mod. The PBM competition series is compared to the highest level of those three. As a final note, backcutting a set of valves is said to improve flow in the low lift area, and this is most desirable on street rods.

Comp High Performance Dual Springs, Part Number 987-16
Our Comp springs are 1.43 diameter, with an inner spring and internal damper. Others are using springs that are much smaller in diameter. Smaller diameter springs may be in the correct spring pressure zone, but they usually have a shorter life. Comp springs are made in the USA. All of our engines using the NKB heads use these springs. Spring failures are near non-existent.

COMP CAMS "POSITIVE STOP" VITON VALVE STEM SEALS. # 529-16

Comp 10 degree machined valve locks.
We use only Comp Super 10 degree machined locks. Our head builder noticed the low grade locks on the market fit more loosely than he felt they should, not to mention the possibility that they were made of inferior metal. He envisioned the engine being much more prone to dropping a valve at high rpm. Using these locks, we have yet to have an engine drop a valve due to a valve lock failure.

Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp Cams ID locators Part number: 4771-16
Our Comp Cams retainers # 75740-16 and Comp ID locators # VTH-4771-16 are made from 4130 chromoly steel. These retainers have a perfect fit with the Comp valve locks. We have used these on all of our engines for many years, and have had zero failures.

Assembly Procedure
We hone all of the bronze valve guides with a ball berry flex hone to establish not only perfect clearance, but also a semi cross hatch finish for oil retention. We finish off with a natural bristle brush. The heads are then placed in our parts washer and cleaned with high pressure hot water, then pressure dried. Before installing the valves, we apply a heavy coat of engine assembly lube to the valve stems. The coating on the valve stems is essential to protect the bronze guides from gaulding on initial startup.

Our next step is to set the spring pressure to a predetermined pressure using a spring height checking device, most suitable for street rod use. The springs we are using allow for a near perfect seat to nose ratio. Be warned that some sellers of aftermarket heads may not be checking the installed height when assembling the heads, and may not be setting them up to the correct pressures. We have a full scale machine shop with several very knowledgeable engine builders that know and fully understand how to properly assemble a set of heads. Combine the possibility of poor assembly methods with incorrect or low grade hardware, and it is easy to see how failures can result.
Head gaskets are Fel Pro 1003 premium race grade series, and ARP head bolts, and rocker studs.

Comp Cams High Energy Aluminum Roller Rockers.
Important notice.
If you've read our warning on engine builders using low grade no-name rods and cranks, a similar situation exists in the roller rocker market. We do not use or sell non branded, (no-name) roller rockers, period. They have proven to be faulty in many ways. The center trunnions are not polished, nor is the center of the roller tip true to size or polished. Metal fragments are often left inside the trunnion housing and will cause destruction of the needle bearings. The pins and keepers that hold the parts together are often of poor quality and improperly installed. The front roller will usually scoot along the valve tip, as it can't roll properly due to rough internal surfaces.

We have honestly seen valve tips that were scalloped out due to the front roller dragging across them. This will cause the valves to side-load against the valve guides in the heads and surely cause damage to them if run like this for very long.

We have scrutinized these products in the past and found all of the above problems, and I can tell you there are most likely many more. We would not use them in an engine under any circumstances. You will also see many of these rockers made from stainless on the market. They use a low grade stainless that actually has a near non-existent amount of nickel in them, but that's not the real problem with them, as stainless steel has no advantage over high grade heat treated steel when it comes to a roller rocker. The lack of hardness of the rocker body is the real problem. The problems with these stainless rockers are the same as mentioned above. These are the roller rockers you see on the market for around $119 and up to $169 for the so called stainless ones. They are pure junk, in our honest opinion. They could possibly be used on a budget back yard stock build up that has a very low spring pressure, with a cam that has very low lift, but then you would be better off with the stock stamped rockers on such a build.

We have heard of many engines using these rockers that came apart and spilled needle bearings into the engine, only to end up in the oil pump. It seems like some engine builders do not care how long the parts in your engine last, or they simply don't know this. I can tell you for sure that using such low grade, "no-name" roller rockers is asking for trouble.

We use Comp High Energy, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum, Comp Gold Arc, Scorpion Race and Endurance Series rockers in all of our engines. The difference in these compared to the low grade no-name rockers on the market is huge.
Howrds Tie Bar Lifters or Delphi Anti Pump up lifters. Depending on Cam Choice.

We have had a vast amount of experience with the Dehphi hydraulic roller lifters. They are a good quality lifter and work well in our engines.

Howards Brand Chromoly One pc. Pushrods.

Howards brand are the only type of pushrod we use in our engines. Made in the USA from 4130 chromoly steel. Regular hardened pushrods will most likely flex in the engine when running above normal RPM ranges, and risk bending under high RPM. These do not have the welded ball on the end. We only use the swedged one pc. design, which is a well proven design far superior to the style many others use in engines. 4130 chromoly steel is also much stronger, and will resist flexing. When a pushrod flexes in the engine, you lose lift. Don't be misled by the term "hardened," as this is nothing more than a stock style low cost push rod. They will flex in the engine or possibly bend permanently.

We are offering four cam choices listed below in this engine. Read the specs carefully.

Cam choice # 1
Special Grind

PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-12675

540/571 lift
242/248 duration
110 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Xtreme Energy Step Nose Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
This cam is the most aggressive of the four choices listed. It will make its peak horse power at approx 6250 rpm. The idle is radical.
We recommend a stall converter of around 2750-3000. Final gearing would need to be at 373 or numerically higher. A 373 final gear is most optimal with this cam, providing the car is reasonably light. This cam does make the most horse power but will trade off bottom end throttle response and low speed cruising in the low rpm range unless your car is setup in pro-street form. The idle sound with this cam is very erratic.
You would not be able to run an overdrive trans, power brakes, or air conditioning with this cam choice. Valve train life and reliability is reduced with this cam as compared to the other choices. This would only be a concern for those wanting to drive their vehicles on long trips or with frequent use. This cam choice puts your setup nearly into the Pro-Street league.
Drivability is fair at best with this cam, unless you have a very light car, with a decent final gear.
If your car is over 3400 lbs, we strongly advise against this cam, unless you have a final gear in the 4.10 range or numerically higher. If you're on the fence with this cam choice and the one below, then you may want to go with this cam and keep the rocker ratio at 1.5, or go with cam choice 2 and go with a 1.6 ratio. That would put you somewhere in the middle of cam choice 1 and 2, at least in respect to valve lift.
Official Dyno report coming soon.

Important Note:
If you choose cam choice 1 with the single plane intake combination, it is highly recommended that you upgrade the ignition system to an MSD Pro Billet distributor, and CDI unit. You should also upgrade the carburetor to the SS Series for optimal performance. These important upgrades are essential for improved idling and overall performance. If you do decide to use the MSD Pro Billet distributor we suggest you use the black timing degree bushing to increase the initial timing and possibly the lighter springs to control how soon the total mechanical advance comes in. You may even "lock-out" the distributor, depending on you cars overall setup. The CDI unit will make a huge improvement in how the engine runs at idle. Low speed cruising will be greatly improved, as well as high rpm operation. The SS carb upgrade is an all out double pumper carb, and gives the engine instant throttle response. If you choose cam choice 2 you may not require these upgrades but should consider them to enhance the performance and drivability of your engine.

Cam Choice #2

Special Grind # 33161

PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-11323

520/540 lift
236/242 duration
110 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Xtreme Energy Step Nose Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
Cam choice 2 is considered somewhat aggressive and improves drivability compared to cam choice 1. This cam will still have a lopy idle. You would require a stall converter in the 2500-2800 range.

Final gearing should still be at approx. 3.73. If your car is in the 3800 lb weight range or more, we recommend cam choice 3 or 4. Hp numbers will drop with this cam, around 20-25 at the most. Combine this cam choice with the dual plane intake option and hp numbers will fall approx another 10-15, but bottom end torque is greatly improved, as well as drivability.

It is not recommended to opt for the single plane intake if your car is in the medium to heavy weight range. They do not operate as well in the lower rpm range. The low end torque with this cam comes in sooner than cam choice 1, but you must still set the car up with proper gearing and converter stall. This cam is our most popular and delivers great bottom end power and very good drivability.

You may not be able to run an overdrive trans with this setup, power brakes are a possibility. We do not recommend this cam if your going to run an A/C unit and overdrive trans. Our cam choice 3 or 4 would be much more suitable.
Official Dyno report with this cam, NKB heads, -13cc dish pistons, single plane intake, 1.5 rockers, SL 750 carburetor, and HEI distributor.
This report is with our new line of custom ground Comp Cams. Nothing short of pure magic. We're highly satisfied with what these new custom cams are doing in our line of street rod engines.

Official Dyno report with this cam, with a few changes. The upgraded SQ carb, same cfm, but rocker ratio was only a 1.5 and notice the outstanding numbers made with this cam. If this engine would have had the 1.6 rockers like the one above, it's fair to say the numbers would have been even higher. The carb upgrade is worth approx. 20hp in our opinion, and this is excellent considering the cfm size was the same. The SQ carbs are a great upgrade for the slight cost to upgrade.

Cam Choice #3

Special Grind # 11480

PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-11480

510/525 lift
230/238 duration
111 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Xtreme Energy Step Nose Hydraulic Roller Camshaft

This cam choice (3) is the perfect all around setup for those wanting excellent bottom and mid range power, while still generating decent power at the top. Horsepower rating would drop an additional 10-15 hp below the cam choice 2. Drivability and street manners would be considered excellent. Heavy cars, upwards of 3800 lbs or more, would do well with this cam choice. No need for a high rpm stall with this cam, but you would still require a stall in the 2200-2500 rpm range for optimal acceleration.
If your car is in the heavy weight range, and/or geared on the steep side and you want much better streetability, then this is the correct cam choice. You still want to keep the final gear ratio at approx. 3.20 or numerically higher. If you have an overdrive trans., then this cam, coupled with the dual plane intake, would allow the engine to cruise in overdrive with rpm in the 1950-2050 rpm range. Should you have a Turbo 350 trans, then this cam choice would allow you to run a somewhat taller final gear to allow decent highway driving in the lower rpm ranges.
You may choose 1.5 or 1.6 rockers with this cam, but we recommend the 1.5 rockers for even better low end response, especially if you plan on running an overdrive transmission. You can also expect a much longer valve train life with this cam compared to the larger cams listed above, especially with the 1.5 ratio rocker choice.
Carb size when using this cam will drop. You'll notice slightly better mileage and better throttle response with this carb versus the larger carbs required when running the larger cams. If your vehicle is very heavy, over 4400 lbs, then we recommend our cam choice #4.
Official Dyno Report with this cam, NKB heads, single plane intake, Brawler 750 carb, and MSD distributor.

Official Dyno Report with this cam, NKB heads, dual plane intake, Quick Fuel SQ 750 carb, and MSD distributor.

Cam choice #4
PART NUMBER: 08-000-8-13436

498/502 lift
220/226 duration
111 lobe sep.
Comp Cams SBC Step Nose Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Roller Camshafts.
Cam choice #4 would be an excellent choice for those with a heavy car or truck. This cam would also be the best choice for those running a 700R4 trans. Low speed cruising, running an A/C, and excellent vacuum for operating power brakes are all possible with this cam.
Great off idle power. A stall converter in the 1600-2250 range would give excellent results. Gearing could be considerably taller, allowing for much better mileage and low rpm highway cruising.
Excellent of idle power is what to expect from this cam choice. Carb size will drop once more with this cam. Possibly better mileage, and for certain, throttle response would be excellent with this cam. Valve train wear and noise would be nearly nonexistent when coupled with 1.5 or 1.6 rockers.
One more benefit of this cam choice is that we can set the engine up with a reduced compression ratio, and this would offer great protection against detonation, and also extend the life the of engine. Running mid grade fuel or even regular grade fuel becomes a possibility with the reduced compression ratio.
The information above on cam selection is not etched in stone. You could step outside these guidelines in either direction to some degree and still have very good street manners. The larger cams could possibly cross the finish line sooner in cars that are setup properly compared to the smaller choices, but the smaller cams will have a better feel in the lower to mid rpm range without all the drama of the more radical setups above.
We're all hungry for as much horsepower as we can get, but building an engine of a given size to higher horsepower will always require a trade off. The 383 engine offers the best of both worlds when it comes to bottom and top end power, but the bigger cams are more demanding on gearing and stall, sensitive to weight, and suffer on drivability as well as valve train wear and tear.
THE CAMS LISTED WILL COVER MOST NEEDS FOR ANY STREET ROD OR SPORT TRUCK.
QUICK FUEL SLAYER 600, Brawler 670, OR 750 CFM CARB, DEPENDING ON CAM CHOICE.

These are file photos. The actual appearance of your carb may vary.

Quick Fuel Technology (QFT) has engineered its new Slayer series vacuum secondary street carbs with all the features. The Slayer is not some stripped-down off-shore QFT copy, it features the same QFT race engineering, all-aluminum construction and hand-built quality that goes into all QFT race-winning carburetors.
The Slayer's incredible value is made possible by QFT's new CNC machining centers and the unique design that utilizes a secondary metering plate with changeable jets, eliminating the costly secondary metering block unneeded for most street/strip cars. The majority of fine tuning on a street carburetor is done on the primary side, and the Slayerâ„¢ provides all of the popular options: changeable idle air and high-speed air bleeds, 3-stage emulsion circuits, changeable primary idle feed restrictions and power valve restrictions.
A truly welcomed feature is the QFT QuickSet adjustment on the vacuum secondary diaphragm that provides a quick external twist adjustment without changing springs. Secondary metering can be altered with changeable main jets and the secondary float is also notched for jet extensions.

Additional features are a fully adjustable electric choke, and a semi polished finish that will improve any engine compartment. The Slayerâ„¢ 750cfm (Part # SL-750-VS) features a 1-11/16" throttle bore and a 1.375" venturi.
You have a choice of single or dual plane intake. The single plane intake should only be used on cars that are very light weight, and have good hood clearance.

Pictured below is our most popular intake choice, the dual plane crosswind. This intake is designed exactly like the Edlebrock RPM Airgap. This intake offers much better low end response than the single plane intake.

Polished intakes also available.

Pictured below is the Edelbrock Performer EPS dual plane intake. If you're going with cam choice # 2 or 3 and require more bottom end power, we strongly recommend this intake. This intake offers incredible low end response and has excellent hood clearance for those installing this engine in a C3 Corvette with a non-cowl stock hood.

304 STAINLESS ALLEN HEAD INTAKE BOLTS ARE USED ON ALL OUR ENGINES.

Pictured below are some of our most popular valve covers. They are fabricated aluminum, and very high quality. You may select from any of the valve covers we have listed at no additional cost for your engine.

The satin covers below are by far the most popular.

RETRO STYLE FINNED. OUR SECOND MOST POPULAR CHOICE.

THE RETRO FINNED VALVE COVERS CONTRAST NICELY WITH THE CHROME AND POLISHED ITEMS.

OUR RETRO STYLE TALL FINNED VALVE COVERS HAVE BECOME VERY POPULAR. YOUR CHOICE.

Billet Aluminum Breather set.

Timing components: SA Gear 8999T billet double roller timing set.
Polished Aluminum Timing Cover.

We use the top of the line SA Gear timing set with a torrington bearing and rolon chain. The difference in quality is dramatic compared to the common low-cost timing set. The upper sprocket is made from billet steel and the lower is induction hardened with nine keyways. These sets are hand matched for selective sizing.
The cost on this high end timing set is approx $97.50, more than double the cost of the low level budget timing set used by many other engine builders. Should you ever want to confirm that this is what is actually in your engine, you can remove the timing cover, and you will see that this timing set is very different in appearance to the run of the mill low cost sets often used by others.
This timing set is offered in three different chain tension setups, allowing us to set it up perfectly every time. One more benefit is that timing accuracy is very precise and will remain that way. This timing set will likely last for the life of the engine. This is what you will find in most solid roller engines, as they have very high spring rates, and create an enormous load on the chain and gears, compared to non solid roller setups. It may seem like a bit of overkill to use such a high end timing set, but the versatility and extreme quality outweigh the cost, in our opinion.

Melling M-Select Oil Pump, and M-Select Drive rod with ARP stud.

The M-Select series oil pump by Melling has several important upgrades compared to the regular Melling M-55 Series. The gears are billet steel, and the body is stronger, coated with corrosion-resistant nitrite. This oil pump also includes the M-Select drive rod. Both components are far superior to the regular Melling oil pump and drive rods used by most other engine builders.
Champ premium oil pan.

The oil pans we use on all of our engines are made in the USA by Champ. The Champ oil pan has a full windage tray, crank scraper, and trap door. Threaded dipstick is included. Extreme duty pickup designed not to fail. The oil pan is made from a thicker than normal gauge material, and has embossed ribs in the body.

If your engine is equipped with the 7 qt. Champ oil pan, it has kickouts that swell outward approx. 3 inches on each side. If you think you will encounter clearance issues with the kickouts, we recommend opting for the stock appearing 5 qt. oil pan. The 5 qt. pan will still be a Champ pan and will have the windage tray and crank scraper. We strongly recommend reducing the amount of oil used in these oil pans by approx. 1/4th of a quart. Doing this may reduce the chance of oil leaks and reduce oil temps. The larger counter weights used on stroker crankshafts are why we recommend reducing the oil capacity in these engines. The higher capacity 7 quart oil pan is an optional upgrade on some of our engines.
To be clear on what we're saying, we would like to see you add right at 6.75 quarts of oil grand total in your engine and oil filter when using the higher capacity oil pan. When using the stock appearing oil pan, we would like to see you add right at 4.75 quarts grand total in your engine and oil filter.
Our engines include a dipstick. It's very important that you re-calibrate the oil level marking on the dipstick. This is due to the fact that the dipstick, oil pan, and block are all made from various manufacturers and we often see great variances. Couple this with the fact that you may be running a reduced amount of oil, and the "full" mark on the dipstick will most likely not indicate correctly. Once you have put a predetermined amount of oil in your engine, and run it for a few minutes, let it sit for awhile on level ground, check the oil, and mark your dipstick with a flat file to re-establish the full mark.

We do not use the knock off oil pan gaskets on the market. Felpro premium oil pan gaskets are used on all of our engines.
Pictured below is a file photo. The actual Felpro gasket used will be the correct model for this application.

Studded Mini Nut Set.

We use our premium studded mini nut set on all of our oil pans and valve covers. The nuts have a serrated face and built in washers. This is the ultimate set for securing the oil pan and valve covers to the engine and is far superior to the typical bolts used by most other engine builders. Our standard engine color is black. Custom paint work on engine blocks and oil pans is available as an optional upgrade. The pictures above and below are file photos to display the studded mini nuts. Other items seen in these pictures may not represent your actual engine.

Listed below are more of the items installed on the outside of the engine, which makes it a "Turn Key" engine.
If you chose cam choice 1 or 2, then we highly recommend using an exhaust evac. system. The vacuum created by the engine is somewhat insufficient when using these larger cams, heads, carb and intake to operate a pcv system at its best. The exhaust evac system will pull the crankcase gases out of the engine at a very smooth and controlled rate. This allows the rings to seat in much faster and better, and can increase horse power to some degree by reducing crankcase pressure. Another benefit of the evac system is that you're not contaminating the fuel and air mixture with semi-burned byproducts from the engine oil and combustion process.
After the engine is completely broken in, the pcv setup may be sufficient. However, it may not be the best choice. The break-in time may also be slower with the pcv setup.
We also offer a vacuum pump system for the ultimate in crankcase pressure control.
If you do decide to use an exhaust evac system, we have a few more recommendations. The bullet style perforated mufflers, like those made by Magnaflow and many other companies, must be used. In our opinion, they sound the best and, most importantly, they allow the exhaust evac system to work properly. Magnaflow is a popular brand of the true straight through mufflers, and there are several other brands on the market such as Corsa, Borla, and Bullet. The sound level is controlled by the length you choose. The 12-16 inch length sounds the best to us. These mufflers have smooth perforated inner walls. They should not be confused with traditional glass packs with fluted walls, which are very restrictive and have a somewhat sloppy sound.
Traditional chambered mufflers, like Flowmaster, create a back pressure pulse that will interfere with the operation of an exhaust evac. system. Chambered mufflers have the reputation of helping bottom end throttle response, but you will have a decent amount of bottom end power with this engine, especially if you have chosen cam choice 2, 3 or 4. In our experience, the straight through perforated mufflers sound and perform better in every respect, and allow the proper use of an exhaust evac. system. More info. on this subject below.
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE.
If you purchase a starter from us you will have to install it. There is no way for us to properly shim the starter (should it be needed) while the torque converter and transmission are not installed. The flexplate will change position when the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate. Some flexplates have a slight amount of run-out/warpage when the trans. and torque converter are not connected to it. This makes correct starter installation difficult. Only when you have the torque converter mounted to the flexplate can you properly install and adjust the starter.
Suggestion: While the engine is out of the car, still mounted on the engine stand, bolt up your torque converter to the flexplate. This will flatten out the flexplate to a great degree. Then, mount your starter on the engine. This is the only time you will have a birds eye view of the starter gear and ring gear from the back of the engine. You can see ifthe proper amount of mesh is there.
It's possible that once the transmission is installed and the torque converter is hooked up to the flexplate, the position of the ring gear may move a slight bit more. The transmission shaft centers up to the torque converter, and this causes the flexplate to further change shape slightly. This may alter your initial starter adjustment, and if it does, you may need to do a light adjustment once the transmission is installed.

High volume satin aluminum water pump with an aluminum impeller.

120 AMP ONE WIRE CHROME ALTERNATOR AND ALUMINUM BRACKET KIT.

WATER PUMP, CRANK, AND POWER STEERING PULLEY WITH BRACKETS, INCLUDED.

EDELBROCK MAX-FIRE ULTRA-SPARK 50 OHM UNIVERSAL SPARK PLUG WIRE SET AND OUR 65K VOLT HEI DISTRIBUTOR ARE INCLUDED.
The Edelbrock Max-Fire Ultra Spark wires are premium grade wires. They have the same specs as the top of the line MSD Super Conductor wires. The Edelbrock wires have a 50 ohm impedance per foot rating and are 8.5 mm in diameter. As you may know, plug wires come in many different grades. These wires are on the high end of the scale. They are also totally suitable for use with HEI distributors and capacitative discharge ignition systems such as the MSD Pro-Billet distributors that run the 6AL box. Most of the lower grade wires on the market have a much higher level of resistance and are usually only 8.0 mm diameter. The lower the ohm rating the better. Edelbrock wires are 100% made in the USA.
If your vehicle is a pre 75 model that came with a point style distributor, you may encounter firewall clearance issues with the HEI distributor. If you think you are going to encounter this problem, then you should upgrade to the MSD Pro-Billet distributor. This unit will clear any firewall. You will need a CDI box such as the MSD 6AL and an external coil when using the MSD Pro-Billet distributor. We offer these systems in our other listings. The MSD CDI system is far superior to the regular HEI distributor in many ways. We strongly recommend it.
The plug wires are included but not installed on the engine. Due to the many different style headers being used, we will send the universal wires with the engine for custom fitment.
The distributor will be installed in the engine.

We include an engine lift plate and heavy duty engine stand with casters with every engine we build.

We offer this engine with selected upgrades. Listed below are some of the most requested ones. Many not only improve performance, but further enhance the reliability and longevity of your engine, along with resale value. Most of these upgrades are low in cost considering the benefits they offer.
SFI Rated Billet Steel flywheel upgrade/option for manual transmission. Upgrade to a SFI billet steel flywheel 168-tooth or 153-tooth for manual transmissions. We highly recommend the SFI billet steel flywheel for those running hard. These are fully cnc'd and far superior in many ways compared to the regular cast iron flywheel.
Cost for the SFI billet flywheel option is $169.00 We have this upgrade/option featured in our other listings. There will be a Chevy 153 tooth and a Chevy 168 tooth size available. Be sure you know the size you need. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.

Race balancing: This is for those who want the engine to operate virtually vibration free at high rpm. Extends engine life and frees up a few more horse power. This is a somewhat labor intensive procedure and is not required, but the feel of an absolutely vibration free engine at high rpm is desirable by many. The standard balance job that is included with this assembly at no extra charge is certainly sufficient. With a race balance job, all pistons and rods are match weighed to within 2/10's of a gram or less, and the final balance is brought down to around 1 gram plus or minus. An ultra smooth engine at high rpm has a noticeable feel and sound to it. If you do not opt for this upgrade, the assembly will still be fully balanced. We spend a good hour and a half doing the regular balance work, and it will certainly meet your needs.
Cost of this race balancing upgrade is $125.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
ARP-2000 rod bolts: This is one upgrade that we find to be very valuable. The rod bolts are most likely to fail under hard use, moreso than the rod itself. When a rod bolt fails during high RPM, total engine destruction is usually the result. The ARP-2000 rod bolts are a very good upgrade, in our opinion. We actually have few, if any, problems with the regular ARP-8740 bolts, but those who run hard always upgrade to the ARP-2000 rod bolts. The ARP-2000 rod bolts also torque at a higher number, and this increased clamping force is also a factor in keeping the big end of the rod stable and true to size. The ARP-2000 bolts are installed in the rods and this upgrade is only available with the Competition rod upgrade.
Cost of this ARP 2000 rod bolt upgrade is $89.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.

Polished single plane or dual plane Intake Manifold: This low cost upgrade really adds beauty to the engine for those who like the bright polished look on the engine. This is available on our Single plane or large runner dual plane intake, known as the Eliminator (very similar to the Edelbrock RPM Airgap).
Cost of the polished single or dual intake is $49.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Single plane or dual plane Speedmaster polished intake upgrade, your choice.

MSD STREET FIRE DISTRIBUTOR. The MSD Street Fire HEI distributor is a far superior unit compared the regular HEI unit that comes with this engine. The failure rate is near non existent. We find the advance curve characteristics also to be more in suitable for street rod engines. We have also noticed that the degree span from initial to total timing is a slightly closer, approx. 18 degrees variance. This allows the engine to have more initial timing when operating at low speed without the use of the vacuum advance.
Cost of the MSD is $108.50 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.

Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Fuel Injection System. This has become a very popular upgrade on many of our engines. For those not wanting to deal with the potential quirks of a carburetor, this is the way to go. Drivability becomes greatly improved over a carb. Startup and warm-up are also greatly improved. Tuning stays spot on. These systems make it very easy to tweak the tuning on your engine to better serve your application. Our engine room crew has found the Holley Sniper system to be a very straightforward setup. Some of our customers have requested the Fitech system, and we find them to be an inferior product in many ways to the Holley Sniper system. The customer service offered by Fitech also has been a very poor experience for us. There is no comparison in the way the two systems function, nor in the way they are set up. The Holley system is 100% made in the USA and that is not the case with the Fitech system. The Holley system has a slightly higher cost, but is well worth it, in our very strong opinion. Our company founder, Skip White, stated that he has no problems with running a carb on a street rod engine, but the ability to tune the engine to perfection and the fact that fuel metering is so perfect with the EFI system has changed how he thinks an engine should receive its fuel and air. The difference in drive between the two is vast, to say the least.
Cost for this upgrade is calculated by taking the retail difference between the carburetor that comes with this engine and the retail cost of the Holley Sniper EFI System. This is a great value with many benefits, in our opinion. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this assembly you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.

Dyno Tuning (Carbureted Engines): This is one of the most important upgrade/options we offer. There are many benefits to this service. The engine is first run at fast idle to bring the water and oil temp up to normal operating temperature. It is then run for approx. 20 minutes under a simulated load at around 3k rpm to promote initial ring seating. After this, the engine is shut down to allow us to check the readings on the spark plugs, and for any possible oil leaks. This cool down is considered part of the engine's first heat cycle. We then follow up with multiple low to medium rpm runs to further the break-in process of all the moving parts in the engine. During these multiple runs, we are paying close attention to the EGT (exhaust gas temp) readings, vacuum pump readings, oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, and overall engine sound. At this point, we start the actual dyno tuning process and this focuses around the air to fuel ratio numbers and what timing numbers produce peak power. We usually have to change carb. jetting several times, adjust the idle circuits, and the air-bleeds occasionally have to be changed. We then establish the engine's full horse power and torque numbers at a given rpm limit.
Having your engine dyno tuned will allow it to run at its absolute best, and is very important in protecting the engine from potential damage caused by the carburetor running excessively rich or lean. This also establishes the engine's hp output and max rpm. These numbers are very important to know. There is one more value that we consider just as important to what we have mentioned above. An engine that has been dyno tuned has also been validated to be in perfect operating condition. This is something that running the engine on a test mule can't provide. Any problems the engine may have will show up during the dyno tuning process. We have on rare occasion seen a popular combination show hp numbers that were not where they should be. Some of these problems give no indication other than reduced hp numbers. We find and fix such problems. The problem may be something simple and easy to find and in some cases very difficult to pinpoint. We will not send the engine out until it's perfect. If you choose not to purchase the dyno tuning package, we will still do a test mule run, as many engine builders do, and it certainly is better than nothing but pales in comparison to a full dyno tuning. When engines are dyno tuned, the chances of you having a problem are near non-existent. Unforeseen problems may still occur, but they are rare. We have kept the cost on this extensive procedure low to not only make it affordable, but it gives us great peace of mind knowing the engine will be in perfect operating condition when it is received. The cost to do a repair once the engine is installed can be very expensive for both us as the seller and for the customer. When you see the final dyno run of your engine on youtube, consider the fact that approximately five man hours, around $25.00 worth of fuel, oil and filter, and $105K worth of dyno equipment went into making that one minute final test run video.
Cost of the full dyno tune option for carbureted engines is $350.00 We have this upgrade featured in our other listings. You can see this and other upgrade options in our ebay store under the "UPGRADES" category, or simply do a search with the key word, "Upgrade" in the search bar when shopping in our ebay store. Before you finalize your purchase of this engine, you may add any of these upgrades to your shopping cart. Click here to add upgrades.
Cost of the full dyno tune option for engines with EFI fuel systems will be $100 more.
Pictured below is one of our actual Super Flow dyno's. This is a 2016 model and highly advanced compared to the much older models many shops have. We have two of these in use at our shop.

The Super Flow is the best dyno in the industry.

IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT DE-TUNING.
For those with very heavy vehicles, such as 4x4 quad cab trucks, 3/4 ton trucks, and crew cab/ex-cab trucks, Suburbans, plus trucks that may do light to medium trailer towing, we recommend the de-tuned version of this engine.

For those wanting to run a supercharger, we recommend our extra deep dish pistons with the 75cc heads regardless of the vehicle.

Our machinists each have many years of experience in building racing engines. This very critical work is done to exacting specs and with great care. Many vendors do not have machinists with the experience or the proper equipment that we are fortunate to have. We have built engines that cost upwards of $50,000. All of our engine builders have been in the engine machining and engine building line of work for their entire working lives. Their ages range from 40 to 67. We have a total of seven machinists/engine builders.

We have dyno tested the original creation of this engine with every cam and intake choice available extensively. We now include the engine test mule run at no additional cost. The engine is thoroughly tested for leaks, vibration, unusual noises, overall engine sound and feel.
THIS ENGINE IS BUILT WITH THE BEST AVAILABLE PARTS WITH CONSIDERATION TO KEEPING THE COST OF THIS ENGINE REASONABLE. WE'VE REVIEWED WHAT THE COMPETITION IS OFFERING, AND WE'RE CONVINCED THAT WE ARE OFFERING THE BEST VALUE FOR THE MONEY.
WARRANTY INFORMATION

This engine is warranted, with limitations and exclusions as set forth below, for two years from date of sale.

Should a major problem arise with this engine within the first year of use, the warranty covers all parts and labor and we will pay for shipping the engine both ways.
Keep the crate your engine came in to ensure a safe return to our workshop.
We do not cover the removal or re-installation of the engine at any time during the warranty period.
Our engines must be used with a rev limiter. Should warranty issues arise, proof of the rev limiter use will be required.

Payment Details

TradesNot Accepted
Accepted Payment Methods Paypal, Money Order, Credit Card, Cash
Other: Wire Transfer

Seller Notes

Shipping is $395.00 to the 48 continental United States. A residential charge is $75.00 and a lift gate delivery is $75.00

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About The Seller

BUSINESS SELLER
Skip White Performance
Member Since February 2019
CONTACT INFORMATION
1910 BROOKSIDE LANE
Kingsport, TN 37660
(423) 722-5152
(423) 722-5152
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Location

KINGSPORT,TN
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This item ships from 37660
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