This car has sat for a year. Clean the carbs and drove on and off trailer .
Be glad to give you the 4-1-1. This may be more than you need for track tuning, but you may as well know it, for future reference.
4.500 bore x 4.150 stroke
Ross forged blower pistons, 7.7:1 comp.
C&A moly rings
Manley H-Beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts
Eagle 4340 crank
Blower is 11% overdriven, makes about 11 or 12 lbs. boost max
Megablock is O-ringed, see detailed spec sheet in car
MP heads bowl-ported, has receiver grooves
SCE .033 thick copper head gaskets
Carb calibration, see spec sheet inside car
Ignition timing locked out at 30º
Meziere electric water pump, 160º thermostat
Milodon 8 qt. pan with single line static pickup
See my website for complete specs and photos
PTC 9-1/2" converter, set up for 4,000 stall (never checked it)
B&M deep cast aluminum trans pan
CSI carbon fiber shield
PST 46-1/2" mild steel
1350 u-joint in front, 1330 u-joint in rear
Richmond 4.10 street gears
Strange S/T 35 spline axles
Front: single adjustable coil-overs with 500 lb. springs
Rear: double adjustable coil-overs with 110 lb. springs
Ladder bars set neutral (bottom bar parallel to the ground)
Car has been scaled, but when it had the old rollcage. Then, it weighed 3,150 lbs. without me (curb weight).
Front 58%/rear 42% (yes, it's nose heavy. Don't expect to carry the front end!! )
This was in 85º air, coasting the last 150 feet, with a rookie driver behind the wheel.
If you're not going to use the water/alky injection system, then I would suggest disarming it by unplugging one or more wires from the pressure switch located behind the blower. It's that weird looking thing with some flimsy white plastic on it.
My linelock wires have a weatherpack connector, and plug into the back of the steering wheel.
Water pump and cooling fans are on manual switches only. So, turn on the water pump when you fire up the engine. I usually turn the fans on when the engine temp hits 180º.
When the engine is cold, give it two half pumps of the gas pedal, take your foot off the pedal, hit the start button and rotate the engine a couple times then hit the ignition. Pedal it to keep the revs up , until the engine warms up enough to maintain an idle.
I made my passes with the back tire pressure set at 10 lbs. It hooked up well, and gave good stability down track.
I shifted at 7,200 rpm. I don't know what rpm it crossed the stripe at, I was too busy hangin' on and looking straight ahead!!
I lash the valves at .014 cold.
It never hurts to install a fresh set of sparkplugs. I gapped them at .035.
That's all I can think of right now. If you have questions, just ask me.
Body has a few imperfections front bumper is in primer. Roll bar was cut so my friend could get in at his age Was my friends car that passed away