CARB IDLE
#13
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Hobbs, NM
Posts: 842
Jeff somethings you might check is..
Fuel pressure 7 psi
Idle screws out 1 1/2 to 2 turns
Make sure your needle seats are not running over
Check for vacuum leaks
Check vavle lash
I've seen guys drill an 1/8 hole in the butterfly to help to keep their engine from loading up.
A few things to check...........
Fuel pressure 7 psi
Idle screws out 1 1/2 to 2 turns
Make sure your needle seats are not running over
Check for vacuum leaks
Check vavle lash
I've seen guys drill an 1/8 hole in the butterfly to help to keep their engine from loading up.
A few things to check...........
#16
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Hobbs, NM
Posts: 842
If turning the idle screws out another 1/2 turn fixed your idle, then you were to lean. The idle screws are a minimal change so your probably still a littel lean, if you have removable air bleeds on the top of your carb. You can put a smaller air bleed in the most outside air bleed from the vent tube to richen your engine at idle alittle more. Otherwise your probably going to have a bog at launch.
#17
Senior Member
DYNO OPERATOR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 496
I HAVE REMOVABLE AIR BLEEDS AND BOGGING IS A PROBLEM AS YOU CAN READ IN MY OTHER POST.IT LAUNCHES STUTTERS AND GOES DOWN THE TRACK FINE,LAST NIGHT COMING UP PIT ROAD IT HAD A MISS ALSO IT BACKFIRED THRU THE EXHAUST WHEN I LET OFF THE GAS AFTER MY RUN.
#20
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Hobbs, NM
Posts: 842
Originally Posted by JEFF69Z28
950 HP BODY 840 CFM CANT REMEMBER JET SIZE AS IM AT WORK.50 CC PUMP IN FRONT AND 30 CC IN REAR SQUIRTERS ARE 40 FRONT/40 REAR.