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Thread: 565 in g-body

  1. #1
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    565 in g-body

    When I put 565 in 1984 Cutlass Salon can I keep the Heater and AC box and if so what headers do you guys recommend. Any help will be very useful, and thanks in advance. [/b]

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    You haven't stated your intent with the car.

    Are you gonna race it or drive it to work?

  3. #3
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    It will be street and strip but mostly street. You know the weekend warrior. But need Heat and AC want it to be comfortable for all riders. And it is 93 octane engine. And thanks again all input will help.

  4. #4
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Kinda depends on whether you're after something that is comfortable and relatively quiet (so you can hear the stereo) and dependable or a "Bad Assed Street Machine" . . That looks and sounds like a "Bad Assed Street Machine" . . .

    If you're gonna cruise it mostly and drive some distance with it, I'd recommend a set of cast iron Big Block Manifolds. They're quiet and a lot cooler in the engine compartment. I think there were several Corvette H.O. applications that're still around if you look very hard at swap meets, etc . . .

    I have a blown small block in my Street Rod, so I use a set of the old 365 HP 'Vette cast iron manifolds with Jet Hot coating applied. Looks good, is a lot quieter and cooler than Tube headers.

    On the other hand you can run a set of tubular "Block Huggers" and they'll give you a little better performance (Dunno exactly how much really) or a set of custom headers with long collectors with flanges, I've had all three on my Street Rod and they all have their advantages and dis advantages.

    Probably the worst set of headers I've had on my Hot Rod was a set of High Dollar Stainless Steel tubes with long collectors. They were the prettiest thing I ever put on the Car until I drove it up the road once . . They turned every color you can find in a Paint sample book . . And they were noisy. You could hear every port fire, and when you warmed it or cooled it, they popped and crackled like a Hamburger Grill, and because my ride is in the weeds, every time you made contact with something under the car, you either cracked them, bent them or loosened them at the flanges . . I'm also pretty sure that they roasted at least one high buck Starter! If you could have put a pig on a spit in the engine compartment and driven 300 miles on a 90° day, you'd have a well roasted pig when you got there. They were absolutely the worst at generating heat in the engine compartment.

    When I took 'em off, I gave them to a guy I didn't like . .

    As for performance, if you have Air and all those other bells and whistles for cruising comfortably, then the parasitic HP loss (or gain) from your exhaust system won't be discernible.

    And whatever you end up with, every guy who looks at your ride will give you advice on what you should have done, because whatever you have isn't gonna be right!

  5. #5
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    I want all the hp possible and the heat i was referring to was the heater. I want to keep the heater and AC box intact. So I was wondering what header would be best to do that with and not be up against or to close to the box. So please help if u all can and thanks again in advance.

  6. #6
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    The heat I'm referring to is "Engine Compartment Heat" which creates problems for you if you're cruising yer ride in hot weather . . . And . . You said you wanted A/C so I'm assuming you're not interested in an 11 second street ride . . . Just based on what you're starting with . .

    Go to Summit and look at what they have to offer in a tube header. They should have an application that fits . . How good, that's up to you.

    And . . If they don't have a GM G Body to BBC headers, I think I'd recommend that you get out your shoehorn and put the engine in the hole and see how much room you have left to play with before you order something that won't fit . .

  7. #7
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    The engine is being built now so I was trying to have the headers that I need when the engine arrive. So I can finish everything up for interior and paint. Because the interior guy said he needs about two months to fiberglass, paint and cover everything in the car. And still have paint and car audio installation to deal with. The goal is to have it done my the first of spring to enjoy the t-tops before it get to hot.

  8. #8
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Not telling you what you should do, or "Should have done" but before interior, exterior or even getting the new Bullet built, I would have taken a Block with the heads on it and made sure the hole was big enough. And what else fits in the hole with the block . . .

    jus' sayin'

    My Street Rod is kind of always in a state of Flux, so to speak (Re:Header story) and because those old shitboxes were really, really small inside, I've learned that we should always "Dummy it up" before buying new expensive pieces . . . that may not fit . .

  9. #9
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    The car had 496 in it with lemon headers on it but no heater box. So I know engine will go in the car with headers. But what I don't know is will it go in with a heater box installed and what headers to use. But from the way it looked with the old setup I don't think the lemon headers will work, because they would be to close or touching.

  10. #10
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Back to square one . . Why did the heater box get removed?

    Space or lack of need?


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