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Thread: 347 Stroker Advice - need more low end Torque !

  1. #1

    347 Stroker Advice - need more low end Torque !

    Hi folks, sure could use some advice and I came here due to the reputation of racingjunk - if I can't fix this, I may be bringing a car to Monroe!

    Engine is in a FFR Mark3 Roadster (cobra replica) so very light car. 5000miles on it, I just bought it and it will scream like every guys dream! Problem for me, I like to lug cars and have good drive-ability along with a good lumpy idle and for this car, I can live with a little less performance - yes I said it ops:

    So, I'm sure the carb needs some cleaning and a good tune as it's not been driven much lately. It starts, runs, idles great but does smell rich at idle. It feels dead below 2000rpm then it pulls like a horse to 6000 rev limiter. And in my 4tanks I'm getting 10-11mpg (don't like that) and that's just around town no real racing stuff. One local shop suggested starting w/ tuning the carb on their dyno. I tend to think it's either over carb'd or the cam is too hot for my needs. And if I want better gas mileage and more low end torque and drive-ability, maybe I need a different intake (this one for high end), cam swap, a carb swap (vacuum sec or single pumper) or maybe a new, milder engine (god I hope not). I love the car, just need a more torquey engine.

    Advice Appreciated:

    It's a Ford, 3.73 Rear, T5 Super Duty Trans by Levy Racing 0.8 final ratio.

    +Engine Details

    +Built by the now infamous T&L back in '08
    +Dart Pro 1 Heads (2.02/1.60)
    +Compression: 10.06:1
    +Intake: Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap (moves powerband up 1000rpm!)
    +Carb: AED Holley 650 Double Pumper HO Series
    +Cam - Comp 35-000-8 Custom Grind: FW3632F / FW3613F, C/Line 104deg - Intake: Duration @.050 224, Gross Lift 556, Lobe lift .3480 and Exhaust: .513, .230 and .3210 and lobe separation 108.0. My spec sheet has lots more info that I don't understand....

    The dyno (corrected) starts at 3300 with 433 (lb-ft) / 272HP, 4000rpm is 421/321, 4500rpm is 428/367, 5000rpm is 433/412 and 5800rpm is 400/441.

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE TheYellaBrick's Avatar
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    It's definitely built for higher r's.

    questions;

    Engine - Chevy / Ford / Mopar / Rambler / Studebaker ? :P

    Rear end ratio -

    Transmission -
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  3. #3
    added the details - final ratio, etc. to 1st post.

  4. #4
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    You could gain a little bit of torque on the bottom end by degreeing the cam in at 100 or 102, also changing the Carb to a vacuum secondary 650 carb. Bring it on to Monroe/Twin Cities. Lot's of Ford lovers/people there.

    JMO

    Zip.

  5. #5
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER
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    BUILD A SBC CHEVY
    im with zip degree the cam would help some and a higher gear would help it out of the hole a 4.30 with the 5 speed maybe more depending on the tire height

  6. #6
    Thanks for some of the input. I'm going to tune on the Holley a bit and see what that does then go from there. I'm a long time chevy guy but this is a Cobra so not putting a GM motor in it ... just one of those things like for resale, etc. And maybe I'm at the wrong forum... I do not want a race car, out of the hole perf. is NOT what I want so 4.10 gears etc. not in the plan. I want a more Streetable combo. and equal or less revs at street speed. I'll get there.

    What's the thought around the benefit of the vac. sec. 650 vs my double pumper? I've read that but some say on a car this light (2200lb) that vac. isn't' the way to go.

  7. #7
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    What's the thought around the benefit of the vac. sec. 650 vs my double pumper? I've read that but some say on a car this light (2200lb) that vac. isn't' the way to go.

    It will reduce the stumble when you first hit the pedal and will come in a little slower than a double pumper.

    JMO

    Zip.

  8. #8
    Administrator RACING JUNKIE bjuice's Avatar
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    I agree with ZIP on his comments on the Carb. But I think your real problem lies in your cam and intake if Not carb alone...the gearing ratio along with the final tranny ratio is not your problem..IMO..I run a 3.08 gear in a richmond 6 speed tranny with similiar final tranny ratio similiar as your's and I do not have the problems you are having on bottom end, stumble etc...

    I know you gave your cam specs above....If I were you before I went changing cams,intakes etc....I would double check this cam you have and have someone ( if not yourself) Qualified to degree the cam in. I ran across a deal like this a few years ago with a friend of mine with a car he bought with a 383ci...the car was just Lazy and would stumble, no matter what...come to find out someone just stuck the camshaft in and paid no regard to even lining up the Dots..HORRIBLE....I forgot how much it was retarded but we degreed the cam in properly and the thing ran like a new car.
    No more stumble, plenty of bottom end, mid range and top end, better gas mileage...you name it..

    #1- Rebuilding the carb is a great idea for starters...

    #2 take your timing light and bring up the rpm's by hand controlling your carb and just see how your timing mark reacts...I have seen small parts broken in top part of distributers even a tooth broken off on the distributer gear...this would cause your timing mark to be jump around erractic sometime advancing and/or retaring your engine timing which could cause you some issues...again this is cheap to check....just a timing light.
    #3- check you current cam position

    This is where I would start if I were you...tweaking and checking your own set up before changing anything..and if you get to changing things do it one thing at a time so you know what the problem was when you come across it.


    hope some of this helps

    jmo
    Bjuice..

    "I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "


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