Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Losing oil pressure

  1. #1

    Losing oil pressure

    This is on my daily driver 2003 Pathfinder. I drove around the block for 1/2 an hour before the oil light flickers and comes on, turn engine off immediately sit for 5 seconds and start engine pressure back up to 40psi drive another 1/2 hour samething. I've installed a master pressure gauge and on cold idle it has 55psi and slowly drops to about 30psi as temp rises i know all engines do, but the needle bounces 1-3psi in doing this. It will sit there steady for while and then slowly drops to zero. When it gets down to around 10-20psi the needle flucuates 5-10 psi. As i bring the rpm's up pressure comes up as it should but not so much when it warms up. Just done a oil/filer change, i'm thinking maybe clogged pick-up or pressure releif valve. Has anyone had this happen or similar or know what would cause this.
    thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER gearhead1011's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Shepherdsville, KY
    Posts
    313
    If this problem started right after you did the oil change then I would suspect a collapsed oil filter. If it's a fram filter I would bet money that's where the problem is. If the problem was there before the oil change it may be crud in the pan blocking the pick-up. When you shut it off the stuff settles into the bottom of the pan and allows the oil pressure to increase until it has run long enough to pull any loose crap back into the pick-up.

  3. #3
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE lively's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    ILLINOIS
    Posts
    2,191
    FRAM FILTERS --EVERY SCAMMER DESERVES ONE 8) 8)


    not calling you a scammer -just-really hate fram filters ops:

  4. #4
    No not a fram we only have ryco here in oz. Yes was happening before oil change i'll drain/strain oil see what comes out. Before oil change it would drop straight to zero within a couple of minutes. What do you guy's think of these engine flushes, a mate suggested it, i'm not fussed about them i think they could make things block up,yes/no.


    Lively still trying to post pics from my other post.

  5. #5
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Fountain,MICHIGAN
    Posts
    856

    ?

    How many Miles does the Unit have on it,and How long have You owned it(Mileage)Wise?

    Later
    G 8)
    Green BULBS and WIN Lights!!!

  6. #6
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    La.
    Posts
    2,890
    Not sure what kind of bypass you have on the screw in filter adaptor, but it's possible it could be stuck open, like on chevy we always plug them, also the pressure relief spring on the oil pump could be stuck open. I know that's not what you wanted to hear but it does sometimes happen.

    Zip.

  7. #7
    I think gearhead could be onto something, i dropped/strained oil there is a little crud in it, so i stuck a bit of wire through the sump plug and there's a fare bit of crud in there. i'm in the middle of flushing it out with fuel, through the dipstick as to not wash the whole engine dry of oil. So i'll know in a couple of days if this doesn't work, it looks like the sump is coming off. Thanks guy's i'll let you know how i go.

  8. #8
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Niagara Falls, NY
    Posts
    965
    we had a ford windstar with 152k miles on it come in the shop cause the oil light was on and it was chattering bad even though it was full of oil. pulled the front valve cover off and their was a perfect mold of sludge under it that made it look like the cover was still on.... :shock: so i pulled off both covers and scraped out and cleaned them and the heads and placed them back on the motor. then ran the motor to temp and drained the oil and filled the whole motor to the top of the valve covers with kerosene and let it sits for a few days. it broke down the sludge in the motor and we drained and screened it and it was some nasty stuff... then i put a cheap filter and oil in it and ran it for about ten minutes and re drained it and put better oil and filter in it :wink: now the guys has over 200k on it and comes every 3000 miles for oil changes like clock work..... lol
    GOOD PARTS AREN'T CHEAP AND CHEAP PARTS ARE NEVER GOOD.........
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...lastscan-3.jpg

  9. #9
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE TheYellaBrick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Emmett, Idaho
    Posts
    7,334
    Quote Originally Posted by fast75vega
    we had a ford windstar with 152k miles on it come in the shop cause the oil light was on and it was chattering bad even though it was full of oil. pulled the front valve cover off and their was a perfect mold of sludge under it that made it look like the cover was still on.... :shock: so i pulled off both covers and scraped out and cleaned them and the heads and placed them back on the motor. then ran the motor to temp and drained the oil and filled the whole motor to the top of the valve covers with kerosene and let it sits for a few days. it broke down the sludge in the motor and we drained and screened it and it was some nasty stuff... then i put a cheap filter and oil in it and ran it for about ten minutes and re drained it and put better oil and filter in it :wink: now the guys has over 200k on it and comes every 3000 miles for oil changes like clock work..... lol
    Sure would be a whole lot cheaper than a teardown and rebuild !
    I've heard of guys doing this but never had to myself.
    TRUTH is HATE
    to those who
    HATE TRUTH

    God Bless our folks in uniform
    "We the People, have your backs"
    http://www.racingjunk.com/profile/279898

  10. #10
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Niagara Falls, NY
    Posts
    965
    Quote Originally Posted by DrivingMissDD
    Quote Originally Posted by fast75vega
    we had a ford windstar with 152k miles on it come in the shop cause the oil light was on and it was chattering bad even though it was full of oil. pulled the front valve cover off and their was a perfect mold of sludge under it that made it look like the cover was still on.... :shock: so i pulled off both covers and scraped out and cleaned them and the heads and placed them back on the motor. then ran the motor to temp and drained the oil and filled the whole motor to the top of the valve covers with kerosene and let it sits for a few days. it broke down the sludge in the motor and we drained and screened it and it was some nasty stuff... then i put a cheap filter and oil in it and ran it for about ten minutes and re drained it and put better oil and filter in it :wink: now the guys has over 200k on it and comes every 3000 miles for oil changes like clock work..... lol
    Sure would be a whole lot cheaper than a teardown and rebuild !
    I've heard of guys doing this but never had to myself.
    heard rumors about it ... but that was our first time and the customer agreed he had nothing to lose at that point to try it. i was kinda shocked at how well it worked out and has good steady oil pressure now too i love talking to the old geezer wrench turners.... they are a wealth of knowledge and wisdom .....
    GOOD PARTS AREN'T CHEAP AND CHEAP PARTS ARE NEVER GOOD.........
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...lastscan-3.jpg


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Email us - Support@RacingJunk.com
Call us - 866.326.9227
Copyright © 2005-2016 RacingJunk.com All Rights Reserved.

Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the RacingJunk.com
Terms of Use, Classifieds Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, and Cookie Policy