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Thread: new to drag racing-what class is my car close to racing in?

  1. #1

    new to drag racing-what class is my car close to racing in?

    OK,so i have been reading through the book (NHRA rule) but still wondering where my car is going to fit. maybe you could narrow it down for me as to what class this will fit.
    I am running a 65 Chevelle 2dr sedan. Looking for a stock hood or fibreglass hood,going to build a dsah as the one in the car was trashed. Making it from sheetmetal with minium guages needed,355 SBC with th350 auto and a 10 or 12 bolt rear diff and ladder bars. heads are cast iron double humps with 2.02 intakes,solid lift roller cam with around 560 lift,12-1 forged pistons,aluminum GRP rods,Scat cast crank,victor intake with 750 dbl pump Holley. 29x10.50 15 in ET Drag tires,single seat,no carpeting,no door stock door panels but will have metal covering them,stock wheel wells other than interior wheel lips,no inner fender wells in front,roll cage. really nothing fancy. did i leave anything out? ANy idea as to what class i am close to fitting in so I can zero in as to what i need to do with this car? thanks in advance for your help,advice,ect. Jim

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE TheYellaBrick's Avatar
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    Brackets. Learn consistency, driving, and engine/chassis tuning.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    One thing you may want to re-consider with that engine build. You really don't need the added cost of aluminum rods in that motor. They're expensive to buy and really should be replaced after so many runs.

  4. #4
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE curtisreed's Avatar
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    I have to agree with both, bracket racing and not a chance I would run aluminum rods in that motor. Victor Jr. not Victor intake. One more thing is rethinking removing the inner fender. Have seen others, Joe Sherman being one, that have proved leaving them in the car being faster.

    Curtis

  5. #5
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE mopar1968's Avatar
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    X3 on Bracket racing, Try footbrake/no box/pro/ What ever they call it where you live :!: :!: Sound's like it would fit right in with these classes :!: :!:


    Mark
    Head's up the true drag race!!

  6. #6
    Administrator RACING JUNKIE bjuice's Avatar
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    I agree on the rods unless you decide to put NOS on the engine...that is why aluminum rods are used..so it can take the shock and save the bearings from the hit blower and NOS ENGINES deliver to the bottom end...But I have to say current day aluminum Rods do not stretch and break like the older ones did...I run the newer set of GRP'S

    You will see a quicker throttle response with these rods because of rotation weight.
    go ahead and get you a middle of the road NOS cam that will not be a total dog on motor and will repsond to a small shot....gaurantee you will want to go faster once you get started...so if it were my engine I would go with the right cam, stay with the aluminum rods, good forged piston. get your ring gap correct and put you a 150-200 shot on it with an adequate fuel system

    again JMO...Never seen a guy that didn't want more after a little time in the seat..so save yourself hassle and time and put the right parts in it the 1st time
    Bjuice..

    "I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "

  7. #7
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    NHRA.......?

    Sounds like a low 13 second Bracket Car to me?
    Get Rid of the NO HOT RODS AVALIBLE BS and Hit some Local Tracks for the Learning Curve!
    Later
    G 8)

  8. #8
    Thanks for all of your input and suggestions. I had passed on a nitrous setup where he had everything but the bottle for $150. It had the spray going under carb where spray on one side and gas on the other. It included the regulators,ect needed to run the NOS. I am running the newer style GRP rods and the cam is a solid lifter roller cam. The specs are 285/285
    242/242
    567/567 lift
    on a 110

    not sure how that would work with NOS

  9. #9
    Administrator RACING JUNKIE bjuice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBCustoms
    Thanks for all of your input and suggestions. I had passed on a nitrous setup where he had everything but the bottle for $150. It had the spray going under carb where spray on one side and gas on the other. It included the regulators,ect needed to run the NOS. I am running the newer style GRP rods and the cam is a solid lifter roller cam. The specs are 285/285
    242/242
    567/567 lift
    on a 110

    not sure how that would work with NOS

    Its a HP camprofile you will need somthing ground for NOS...GREG is probably right low 13 second car as you described it
    not gonna try and get into how to build a NOS engine on this thread but will say the differences in a NOS engine is the cam profile, ring gap set up, adequate fuel supply many run dedicated lines I just use a hog pump..magna fuel..the ability to take out proper degree of timing at NOS Activation. in your case a lower cost MSD chip set up will do it..will also need a NOS converter..
    I guess the point I am making with you is that you are at a cross roads to to where $300 will make the difference in a 450hp engine making 400 ft lbs of TQ vs it making 650hp + and 700 ft lbs of TQ.

    What many do not understand is that NOS Produces a freaky amount of TQ vs HP and its a flat TQ curve....thats why these NOS hits pull so well

    Big difference between a 13 second pass vs a high 10 second. is enough to make a man decides if he likes racing or not
    Bjuice..

    "I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "

  10. #10
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Car?

    Brian,as I read thru His Posts.........?The LAST THING He NEEDS is N02!!!
    Get the CAR Together,use the Parts You have!Then get some Laps in,and then with VERY Little $$ Invested.You can Decide what yo want to do ?

    Personally,I have been doing this for almost 40yrs.Have I been down the N02 Road?YEP!Would I ever do it Again?NOPE!
    Thats Stuff is NOT for someone that IS FRESH behind the EARS!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Want to GO Fast,Put a ROOTS Blower on!But,thats another Day at the RACES..........................

    Later
    G 8)

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