static timing and total timing

Old 12-13-2009, 08:47 AM
  #1  
robertstell
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Default static timing and total timing

just put a new cam in my 427 bbc. 748/714 roller. i have 38 degrees of total timing and and about 30 of initial timing....wont run for nothing idling or at under aound 3000 rpm...do i have too much initial do you think...thanks alot, rob.. how much initial should i be looking for. i know the total will need to be around 38...the springs in the distributor look like front coil springs....
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Old 12-13-2009, 09:36 AM
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TopspeedLowet
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Default IGN advance too slow

Not knowing what type of distributor you are using nor ign. I would simply recommend that you run as much initial timing as you can crank with the lightest springs you can get and honor your total timing limit, what ever it may be. Better yet, locking out the advance in the distributor and set the timing total at idle like a crank trigger does. Some guys use a timing retarder in there ign to crank more easily during start up, but usually are not needed in most cases.
More timing sooner is better and smoother idling and gives a higher vacuum signal which gives better idle performance.
If you have power valves in your carb, you may be getting a over rich condition to boot with the low vacuum signal to the valves at idle in your current timing condition.
Bruce
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Old 12-13-2009, 10:53 AM
  #3  
robertstell
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Default INITIAL TO TOTAL ADVANCE

Thanks Bruce, I have a msd 7al3 and a msd 8556 distributor. the advance on the distributor was welded down and i took it apart, broke the welds and put the only springs i had in it...evedentley they are way to strong...will definitley go with some new lighter springs in the dis...On this box if I set the total at 38, not real sure about where to put a retard chip at and if its enuff... would 10 degrees be to much do you think, Rob...
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Old 12-13-2009, 11:03 AM
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TopspeedLowet
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Don't use any timing retard for starting unless you need it. It often causes what it is intended to fix ( kick back ). But if you needed it, 10 would be plenty. As for welding? the MSD usually requires removing the gear roll pin and one or two small fasteners below the weight pad and pulling the shaft out of the independent rotor mount piece then replacing it either in the small round hole to lock out timing change or the elongated one for mechanical advance set up.
Bruce
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Old 12-14-2009, 10:53 AM
  #5  
dak697
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Lock the distributor out. and put 38 deg. in it ...
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Old 12-16-2009, 10:29 PM
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rob41willys
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X2
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