qiksix

Just wanted to know what procedure everyone uses to fire stack injection.

Thanks

suicidebomb

I use a Vertex magneto, works like a champ.

OneBadGMC

Toss 2-3 accelerator pump shots worth of gas down into each stack and fire it up.

It should fire up pretty easily after the first time you get the system primed. They make a one-way priming nozzle just for doing that very thing. Use a small electric junk fuel pump from auto zone (or where ever) to prime the system at the distribution block.

suicidebomb

OOOPs sorry, I misunderstood the question. I just crank mine, till I get fuel to just drip out the nozzels at WOT, close the butterflys, flip on the magneto, and it fires right up. Be sure you have the leakdown on the barrel valve set, and you shouldn't have too much trouble. W.J., all the stacks I've ever seen, didn't have a distribution block, the nozzel hoses, come from the barrel valve to the nozzels. That's not to say that they're isn't one with a dist.block, I've just never seen one like on an Enderle.
Good luck qiksix

zipper06

Cold startup, i turn the fuel shutoff on, crank it over until the oil pressure starts to build, holding the peddle open. Once the oil pressure builds, i flip the switch on, usually the fuel is primed by then, unless you have a weak pump.
Warm fire up i donot close the fuel shut off, because i drive it back to the pits and there's no pressure when the pump is not turning, and will start after a couple revolutions of the motor. If you do close the fuel shutoff and run the lines empty, it will take a little longer to start.
If i were running any nitro at all, even a low percentage, i would definately close the shutoff and run the lines empty and use a couple shots of gas to restart.

JMO

Zip.

dak697

We used to use the old squirt bottle full of gas and would shoot it into the tubes from the opening of the hood scoop. Did not always work well.. When the motor was cold it was an outright pain in the butt.

Then we changed the system around. In the Scoop pan we bent up a piece of steel line that is conected to a solenoid. When we start the car now, we turn the fuel shut off, on.. press the primer button 2x and then the starter button and the primer button on/off quickly. the motor starts great, and we continue to hit the primer until the motor gets enough alcohol to run on its own. With the motor getting 8 shots of fuel out 1 time the motor fires up like it has a MSD. We use a Vertex mag on the car.

When I put the Tunnel Ram Injection on my car I drilled the plenum and installed a tube with holes drilled in it to shoot fuel down each port on a primer circuit. it is a vertical infecor and I really like it because I can start the car everytime without having to take the hood off.

OneBadGMC

It doesn't necessarily have to be in the distribution block. It can just as easily be put anywhere in line above the pump.

You could even use a high speed bypass turned backwards, so that it flows into the main line, but not back out.

The nice thing about doing it this way is that the nozzles are vented. So with the motor is cranking and vacuum on the nozzles, it's virtually impossible to flood the motor.

The idea is to prime the entire fuel system, and then have additional fuel flowing into the stacks.

A separate tank can be used, filled with gas, or you could add a fitting to the pump inlet and siphon it right out of there to minimize plumbing and additional fuel tanks.

It's the lack of fuel that causes an injection system to be a PITA to start, especially when cold.

qiksix

Thanks guy's, looks like a few different ways to try.

I'm squirting gas down the stacks now but might try other methods.

How much timing does alky like, mine's 36 at the moment, if i bump it up to 38 it seems to fire better.
Did some searching on this and read one that said some engines with lumpy pistons need more timing than others, he was up in the high 40's.
Would this be right to get spark across the lump sooner.

OneBadGMC

You read timing off of the ground strap.

Here's a couple good articles:

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...ead-plugs.html

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...ark-plugs.html

http://www.dragstuff.com/techarticle...ark-plugs.html

Since you're on Alky, you want to pay attn to where the blue annealing line is on the plug ground strap. The closer to the end of the strap it is, the closer you are to burning stuff up. A conservative tune on a blown motor will keep it at the 90 degree bend on the strap.

On a N/A motor, you can get it closer to the tip, since combustion chamber pressures aren't nearly as high.