lively

MY BROTHER IS PAINTING HIS 48 DODGE PICKUP WITH ACRYLIC URETHANE ENAMEL[ VIPER RED- IT IS VERY NICE LOOKING!!!]
HE GOT A SAG ALONG THE FRONT FENDER BEND ABOUT 6 INCHES LONG AND SAGGED 1/2 INCH
MY ?? IS -CAN I SAND THIS SPOT AND BLEND THE PAINT BACK INTO THE FENDER AND THEN SAND AND BUFF IT OUT
I DID BODY WORK FOR SEVERAL YEARS AND DID THIS ON OLD STYLE PAINTS ALOT BUT HAVE NEVER USED THIS NEW STYLE PAINT!!!

LIVELY

outlaw256

if you use the right paper, like say for a heavy run start with 600 then work your way up to 2000. mask the area around the run just to keep from making a bigger repair spot than nessasary.wet sand it till its gone. slowly as not to go deeper than needed.TAKE YOUR TIME.then cut it with fine compound. if it shows when your done you may have to cut the hole fender. we have fixed a few that way and they turned out good. ken

Bubstr

I would try to sand run out with out going threw to base first. by using a small hard wood block starting off with 600 wet holding block at 45* and a very light pressure. stepping to a finer grit as you get closer ending with 2000. If not able to see the sealer buff it. If you go threw it is not much extra to color coat the whole fender, provided you have some paint left. That way you are sure you won't get ring around the repair and end up painting whole thing anyway. Three paint jobs starts building up mill thickness that is not good for longevity. Did you know that reducers that are to fast drying cause more runs than one that you don't really have to try to keep it wet. second most cause is a gun that has trouble spraying a even but wide fan. when you shorten fan from 10 to a 6 your flirting with runs. of course keeping even distance and same angle from panel and even overlaps are important also.

lively

HIS 48 HAS BIG FENDER LIPS ON IT--HE TOLD ME HE WAS SPRAYING STRAIGHT ACROSS ON THE LAST COAT WHICH PUT THE GUN ABOUT 3 INCHES FRON THE HIGH SPOT ON THE LIP ops: ops:HE ALSO HAD THINNER FOR 60 -70 DEGREES[ IT WAS 87 THAT AFTERNOON ops: ops: ]

HE DID BOTH SIDES THE SAME[ HE REALLY TRIES HARD TO DO THINGS PERFECT BUT!!!!

I SANDED IT WITH 600 THEN FEATHERED OUT FROM THERE WITH 1500

JUST TRYING NOT TO PAINT THE WHOLE FENDER ON BOTH SIDES :? :?

I WILL TRY THIS OVER THE WEEKEND AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS

THANKS--LIVELY

Tod74

Like bubster said you probably could have fixed that without repainting. I would have used 1000 to start and ended with 2000. If you are carefull and use warm SOAPY water you can get the sag out and then rub it back slick. It will look even better than it would have if you had not needed to fix it...color sanding is what gives em that mirror look not just a high gloss. I almost only use base/clear but you can also color sand acrylic as long as it doesn't have metalic in it. If you color sand single stage paint with metalic it looks blotchy because some of the metalic gets removed from any high spots.

The soapy water helps the paper glide across the still soft paint easier and keeps it from scratching.

If it sags on you again close to the wheel well, try and run it off the edge.

I agree with bubster about the ring in the paint. I have had that happen. Always do the whole panel or break at a molding or body line...unless using b/c c/c then you can color just the spot if you want and then clear the entire panel.

JMO as I am not a profesional, but I have painted a bunch of em.

lively

TODD---THE CENTERLINE WHEELS IS GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I USE TO BLEND ALOT OF LAQUERS AND ENAMELS YEARS AGO BY SANDING AND PUTTING RUBBING COMPOUND ALONG THE OUTEREDGES OF THE REPAIR SPOT/ THEN PAINTING AND FEATHERING IT OUT/ THEN LITELY SANDING AND BUFFING AFTER THE PAINT DRIED--BUT THAT WAS WHEN THEY MADE REAL PAINT[ THINGS CHANGE-TOO BAD!!!]

LIVELY

outlaw256

ive been painting cars and bikes foe 35 yrs.the change in paints and techniques is like nite and day.i still forget and mix new paints with the old ways of doing things. most of the time i get lucky and it turns out great. but every once in awhile i gotta back up and punt. when i tell some one how to do things i take for granted they know the basics or a little more. i just dont go into detail like i should.both bubster and tod74 are right.masking of just the run will get it done.and lok good to. ive done it many times on every day cars. but a show car would wet sand the whole panel( yes with soapy water and if need even sprinkle a little ajax on it.) my son does it all by the book. he jumps my but when he catches me doing something from the old days with new type paints!!every car or bike we shoot gets repaired primed, sanded, shot,color sanded starting with 1000 and ending up with 2500. then buffed with 3 different compouds. one of our trucks made in marches issue of sport trucks. flamed out 2007 dodge hemi.if you want your ride back in a few weeks you gotta go somewhere else. with 3 working on a typical car or truck it takes us about 2 months to get it done. but we usually have a couple going on at once. if it aint right it dont leave.i had customers who thought thier car looked good but we didnt let them take it for one reason or another.i painted a car once and i could see where there was two diferent shades of color man couldnt see it but i could. wouldnt let him take it until it was right.my name goes on everything we build or paint so it HASto be right.lively i have no idea why i typed all this. closed on sundays. thats the day we work on our stuff.and im to tired to go outside.sorry man i guess i just wanted someone to talk shop to. and i just remembered its sat.so i gotta go out and open up anyway DAMN

Tod74

I like how this man thinks!!

I just paint cars on the side ... I would never make a living at it cause time is money and I am tooo pickey. IF IT AINT STRAIGHT I WON'T PAINT IT. Also refuse to spray one if I didn't get it ready...best paint job in the world looks like doo doo when applied over a corn cob. I am anal to a fault when it comes to block sanding...and No matter how slick I can put it on I always color sand...I don't have a booth ( I make one with a couple window fans and that pull out and lower the door to a ft from the floor and tape furnase filters to the bottom..then wet the floor...best I can do) I don't have too much trouble with dirt with this method, but back before the HVLP guns sometimes overspray settling on the car while it dried was an issue...the 2000 grit color sand took care of that...not so much an issue anymore with the hvlp. I will never go back to a siphon feed gun ...they suck. ( haha bad joke)
You can keep your old school laquer...lol That is the stuff my father used when I was a kid..He would .hand rub every coat. :shock: Screw that. :P

Base Coat / Clear Coat best thing since sliced bread. IMO

outlaw256

yes bc/cc is good., but you are painting the car twice, with 2 different flow characteristics, that twice the chances of a problem coming at you, i still like acrylic enamel best.1 tack coat 2 wet coats and bingo, glossy when dry.color sand and buff deep glossy look and you can bang it with a hammer after it cures.but my son wont evenshoot it.i think its because bc/cc is more forgiving. (depending on what clear you use, ive used some clears you couldnt keep on the car with duct tape)he gets mad at me if i even say the word.acrylic enamel.says im really stuck in the day and refuse to come out.guess hes right i just found out 8 tracks aint cool anymore.and beta is gone!

Racefab57

IMO The old days are gone, Ive painted for a living for 30 yrs and I love the new tech of the new paints!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! wouldnt go back for the life of me, there is so much of the same things you need to do before paint tho , youve gotten some good advice try to follow it GOOD LUCK!!! David,