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Thread: motor plates or solid mounts???

  1. #1
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    motor plates or solid mounts???

    I have a BBC in a 48 Olds.I did the swap when I was in high school (my work from back then doesn't impress me now ops: )and used stock rubber truck engine mounts.It was a driver then and I didn't want the vibration.Now,the car is strictly drag.Haven't had any problems so far but I got the motor in crooked.Driver side is about 3/4" high and it bugs me.Been looking at that crooked sucker for 11 years and can't take it anymore.So,the easiest(cheapest) way out would be solid mounts but was wondering if there is any advantage to a motor plate??I have a stock rubber tranny mount now.Do I need a mid plate,too?How thick?Aluminum or steel?And my biggest concern,how much of a pain in the butt are they?Any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated.Thanks Eric
    "The problem with quotes on the Internet is that you cannot confirm their validity"- Abraham Lincoln

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    one advantage is more room in the engine compartment, for header clearance, aside from stiffness. .125 steel in the rear and .250 alum, for the front, i always stay with rubber tranny mount.

  3. #3
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    I got fenderwell headers,they shoot up and over the frame so no problems there,good point,though.Thanks for info on thickness.Is a mid plate required?Are they really stiffer than plain old solid mounts?
    "The problem with quotes on the Internet is that you cannot confirm their validity"- Abraham Lincoln

  4. #4
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    i don,t think they are required, (rear) but it would prevent vertical and lateral movement, at the rear of the engine, being tied to frame will add some degree of stiffness imo.

  5. #5
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    I agree with itsabird in that they do stiffen up the front of the car. I run aluminum plates. Front .250 rear .125 I also run two bars, one on each sideof the engine, from the frame to the old motor mount location on the block. this prevents the motor from moving front to rear. Now I'm really going to start it, NO TRANNY MOUNT WHATSOEVER, :shock: I know i'm asking for a broken tailshaft housing, I probably have 300 runs on the car with no problems, However I'd not reccomend it to anyone though.
    suicidebomb
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  6. #6
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER gearhead1011's Avatar
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    Motor plates are the best way to go for several reasons. They help the chassis by tying the frame together, it provides more clearence and it eliminates the cylinder distortion you get from the solid side mounts pulling on the block. I would reccomend front & mid plates and a rubber trans mount.

  7. #7
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    [ Now I'm really going to start it, NO TRANNY MOUNT WHATSOEVER, :shock: I know i'm asking for a broken tailshaft housing, I probably have 300 runs on the car with no problems, However I'd not reccomend it to anyone though.
    suicidebomb[/quote]
    My FED was that way and as far as I know, always was. I easily put over 1000 8 second runs on it with the glide hanging between my legs with no mount. The guy I got it from ran deep 7's on nitrous....

  8. #8
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Thanks johnracer, I've seen a lot of cars set up this way. I figured someone would call me an idiot, which I am, but that is beside the point
    suicidebomb
    No matter where you go, there you are.
    **IN GOD WE TRUST**

  9. #9
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    I got one buddy who runs no trans mount in a FED,and another that runs no trans mount on a late model.Just don't look right,but can't dispute that it has held up.

    One more :?: for everyone,is a polyurethane mount any advantage over a rubber(if using plates)or is it too stiff?What I really was thinking about was putting in a front plate,1/4" aluminum and no mid-plate but using a trans mount.Will that work?Okay,that was 2 ?'s.
    "The problem with quotes on the Internet is that you cannot confirm their validity"- Abraham Lincoln

  10. #10
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    Personally, I don't see any advantage to a poly mount over stock rubber. With the exception of the FED, I've always run rubber. I suppose if you want your mount to be colorful or shiney, use poly. If you just want to have a mount on your tranny and have better things to spend the $ on, use rubber. Just get a new, one not some boneyard piece!
    As far a motor plates go, yes just a front plate will WORK. If you have room, I'd put in a midplate and a lateral limiter. Especially with a bigblock. That front plate will get bent eventually.....
    JMO,
    Johnny


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