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Thread: Torque for aluminum heads

  1. #1
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
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    Torque for aluminum heads

    Hey guys,

    I just got a set of aluminum bowtie heads and need to know the torque specs. Also would it be beneficial to add head studs and coper head gaskets while I have the engine apart. Thanks in advance.

    Chris

  2. #2
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    I torqued my old big block GM ALUM heads to 75 ftlbs. The new Brodix I just got had a paper with them that said to torque them to 70 ftlbs.

  3. #3
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    What Tod said, but i perfer the copper gaskets because you can use them over and over again, you didn't say if it's s/blk or b/blk. I always stud a s/bk but the last motor i built 476" b/blk 2 milk crate motor we used Felpro and ARP head bolts. Not my choice but the owner did not want to spend the money.

    Zip.

  4. #4
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    Quote Originally Posted by zipper06
    What Tod said, but i perfer the copper gaskets because you can use them over and over again, you didn't say if it's s/blk or b/blk. I always stud a s/bk but the last motor i built 476" b/blk 2 milk crate motor we used Felpro and ARP head bolts. Not my choice but the owner did not want to spend the money.

    Zip.
    ZIP when you head stud one do you just finger tight or do you lock a couple nuts together and lightly snug them?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tod74
    Quote Originally Posted by zipper06
    What Tod said, but i perfer the copper gaskets because you can use them over and over again, you didn't say if it's s/blk or b/blk. I always stud a s/bk but the last motor i built 476" b/blk 2 milk crate motor we used Felpro and ARP head bolts. Not my choice but the owner did not want to spend the money.

    Zip.
    ZIP when you head stud one do you just finger tight or do you lock a couple nuts together and lightly snug them?
    Its a s/blk. Sorry for not stating it to start with.

  6. #6
    Member JUNIOR BUILDER
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tod74
    Quote Originally Posted by zipper06
    What Tod said, but i perfer the copper gaskets because you can use them over and over again, you didn't say if it's s/blk or b/blk. I always stud a s/bk but the last motor i built 476" b/blk 2 milk crate motor we used Felpro and ARP head bolts. Not my choice but the owner did not want to spend the money.

    Zip.
    ZIP when you head stud one do you just finger tight or do you lock a couple nuts together and lightly snug them?
    I'm not Zip .. but you want them to just be snugged up, not tight, ARP comes with the ends broached for an allen wrench.

    Studs are great when on a Dragster ... but try taking a cyl. head off of the engine in most any door car. no fun at all. I'm ' returning " to bolts in my cars ....

  7. #7
    Administrator RACING JUNKIE bjuice's Avatar
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    Cris- Duane brought up a good point about taking off the heads while in the door car with head studs..it could be a challange..to the point of having to yank out motor or at least pull forward..

    if ya wanting the extra sealing power around the cylinder then i would check into the FEL-PRO MLS head gasket's..about $200 for the set and use head bolts the closest thing to o-ringing a block without doing it.

    ( i have a little un-fair advantage of your situation then most people cause the motor use to be mine)

    so i know your motor pretty good LOL...unless your gonna spray the thing or convert it to a blower motor and pack the cylinders i would not sweat the head studs etc....the copper gaskets are great as zip said for re-use but my opinion on this is Copper head gaskets are a great match for a o-ringed block,head studs and of course a good dose of Hylomar..
    can you use one without the other...YES!...but its like swimming with your clothes on...lol :roll:

    the motor has ran for 8 years with Regular Fel-pro head gaskets and head bolts at 13 to 1 compression..

    just my take on it.

    Brian
    Bjuice..

    "I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjuice
    Cris- Duane brought up a good point about taking off the heads while in the door car with head studs..it could be a challange..to the point of having to yank out motor or at least pull forward..

    if ya wanting the extra sealing power around the cylinder then i would check into the FEL-PRO MLS head gasket's..about $200 for the set and use head bolts the closest thing to o-ringing a block without doing it.

    ( i have a little un-fair advantage of your situation then most people cause the motor use to be mine)

    so i know your motor pretty good LOL...unless your gonna spray the thing or convert it to a blower motor and pack the cylinders i would not sweat the head studs etc....the copper gaskets are great as zip said for re-use but my opinion on this is Copper head gaskets are a great match for a o-ringed block,head studs and of course a good dose of Hylomar..
    can you use one without the other...YES!...but its like swimming with your clothes on...lol :roll:

    the motor has ran for 8 years with Regular Fel-pro head gaskets and head bolts at 13 to 1 compression..

    just my take on it.

    Brian
    Gottcha Brian, I am going to use Fel Pro with head bolts. I can't wait to hear that thing purrrr again.

    Chris

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tod74
    Quote Originally Posted by zipper06
    What Tod said, but i perfer the copper gaskets because you can use them over and over again, you didn't say if it's s/blk or b/blk. I always stud a s/bk but the last motor i built 476" b/blk 2 milk crate motor we used Felpro and ARP head bolts. Not my choice but the owner did not want to spend the money.

    Zip.
    ZIP when you head stud one do you just finger tight or do you lock a couple nuts together and lightly snug them?
    When i head stud one i put the head on with the gaskets in place, i then screw the studs in with blue lock tight until i have 3/16" above the lock nut with washer. I then remove the head and apply some sealer around the water openings on the gasket and re-assembly the heads and torque them in stages of 20lbs until i am at their required torque specs. I also retorque the heads after they have been fired up and allowed to run too temperature. It's been a long time since i have lost a gasket seal, with gas,alcohol, or blown alcohol. I know it's extra time, but it's cheaper than replacing and a lot of comfort when you need to make the next round.

    JMO

    Zip.

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    Torque 65 ft lbs to a max of 70 ft lbs. Head studs or bolts too tight will do more harm than good.

    Small head 6 point ARP Bolts with washers. Head gasket of your choice.

    For those who asked;
    You do not want a stud installed in a block tight. I usually screw down by hand and back off by 1/4 turn and use a copper base anti-sieze on the threads lightly.

    Ed
    " Let all things that hath breath, praise the Lord. Praise Ye the Lord" Psalms 150 vs 6.


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