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Thread: cheap intake alignment tool

  1. #1
    Senior Member DYNO TECH
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    cheap intake alignment tool

    heres something I gotta share



  2. #2
    Senior Member SENIOR BUILDER
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    Not a bad idea I will steal that one
    But I have also used a small piece of double-sided tape
    Especially wen the ports are matched to the gasket


    Joe

  3. #3
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    I just glue em to the head with a thin film silicone..still good idea.

  4. #4
    Member JUNIOR BUILDER
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    Excellent! Thanks for sharing. Have something to share too, most of you might already know to do this....
    http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...p?number=25000
    Oil galley screen kit. For 15 bucks, great insurance. My partner spent 4K on a quick build during this last season (asphalt, oval, Modified). One of his downleg boosters fell off and got bent up or broken enough by the lifters/pushrods that it made it to his lower end and boom.
    My brother-in-law was racing dirt modifieds and someone (had to be one of the spectators/lookieloos in the pit area) dumped a couple of drywall screws down his carb, they made it to his lower end also. A 1 hour period, while he was waiting to qualify, he left the car unattended with hood/air cleaner off.
    I'm going to install these screens, some magnets in oil pan, and maybe fit a screen on the inside lip of my carb.
    Wonder if there are chip warning systems out there, like the helecopters use in their gearboxes that we can use in out oil pan? Anyone know of these?

  5. #5
    Administrator RACING JUNKIE bjuice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tod74
    I just glue em to the head with a thin film silicone..still good idea.

    what tod said..did it week before last...place a few bolts intake to snug it down..come back the next day take off intake trim the gasket to exact head port...then go from there...

    $5.00 for tube of Ultra Grey silicone...

    Brian
    Bjuice..

    "I'M YOUR HUCKLEBERRY ! "

  6. #6
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
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    Rutherfordton North Carolina
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    Quote Originally Posted by davebat
    Excellent! Thanks for sharing. Have something to share too, most of you might already know to do this....
    http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...p?number=25000
    Oil galley screen kit. For 15 bucks, great insurance. My partner spent 4K on a quick build during this last season (asphalt, oval, Modified). One of his downleg boosters fell off and got bent up or broken enough by the lifters/pushrods that it made it to his lower end and boom.
    My brother-in-law was racing dirt modifieds and someone (had to be one of the spectators/lookieloos in the pit area) dumped a couple of drywall screws down his carb, they made it to his lower end also. A 1 hour period, while he was waiting to qualify, he left the car unattended with hood/air cleaner off.
    I'm going to install these screens, some magnets in oil pan, and maybe fit a screen on the inside lip of my carb.
    Wonder if there are chip warning systems out there, like the helecopters use in their gearboxes that we can use in out oil pan? Anyone know of these?
    That kit is a very bad idea and has been responsible for many blown up engines.
    When you plug the oil vent holes in the middle of the valley you force blowby to come up the end holes under pressure while the oil is trying to return down the same hole just by gravity. gravity looses and all your oil is soon up in the top end and your bearings are out the side of the block.
    with wet sump engines the rear return holes need to be ground out as large as they can and the center holes in the block taped for 1/4 pipe. install 1.00 long BRASS pipe nipples with loctite. the reason for brass nipples is there thin wall and allow max venturi. use no screens in the
    return holes.

    Its not possible for a booster to fall off and get into the valley and then to the lower end. the booster went into a cylinder and caused the damage and probably ended up in the pan after the piston broke. same with the dry wall screws,they can only end up in a cylinder or in the pan if a piston brakes during the process.Bill
    Hendrens Racing Engines
    1310 U.S. Hwy 221 North
    Rutherfordton N.C. 28139
    828-286-0780 Bill, Steve, Mike
    www.hendrensracingengines.com

  7. #7
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
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    2,044
    I use spray trim adhesive, it holds great and leaves no residue.
    I think of racecars as small children, I never leave them unattended. but if I must, either the hood goes back on or a carb cap on, man a hard lesson learned there, bummer><Cp
    ***IN GOD WE TRUST***

  8. #8
    Senior Member DYNO TECH
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    that cool but the pins will get the intake centered the first time.

  9. #9
    Junior Member SHOW GUEST
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    Jun 2005
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    Minnesota
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    4
    You could also use 3/8 allen head set screws if you have them laying around..


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