Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: best cam break in oil

  1. #1
    Junior Member SHOW GUEST
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3

    best cam break in oil

    Best soild lifter break in oil? I've never lost a cam yet, and never have broken one in....yet. This time as allways I used TORCO MPZ on all lobes and gears. I HAVE for the first time removed my inner springs. In the past I've not ever removed the inner springs or ran at 2500 for any amount of time. With all the talk about additves being removed and people using Rotella before it changed as well what is my best bet? After break in I'll use what I allways have, Mobil One synthetic. Thanks for your help.

  2. #2
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    NORTHEAST
    Posts
    290
    We use the Brad Penn oil http://www.bradpennracing.com/ and you may want to check on the Mobil 1 oil as it has also changed for the bad and is not really recomended for flat tappet cams any more.

    Remember if the oil container does not say racing oil on it don't use it with flat tappet cams.

    We have always used the AMSOIL in our racing engines we have built for years and so far non of aur customers have had any oil related problems.

    On all the SBC cams we buy we order the P-55 cores which is the performance core and we use the tool steel lifters and I have heard that the Johnson lifter are a good choice as well.

    Some times if you have good quality lifter and a good cam core it does not matter how its broke in as it may not last.
    WWW.CNCBLOCKSNE.COM
    IS A DIVISION OF
    HINKSON AUTOMOTIVE
    RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

    CARL HINKSON 207-892-7215
    EMAIL CHINKSON@JUNO.COM

  3. #3
    Senior Member MASTER BUILDER
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Rutherfordton North Carolina
    Posts
    192
    Check out Joe Gibbs oil,they have spcl break in oil as well as full synthetic that is great with flat tappet or roller cams Bill .www.shop.joegibbsracingoil.com
    Hendrens Racing Engines
    1310 U.S. Hwy 221 North
    Rutherfordton N.C. 28139
    828-286-0780 Bill, Steve, Mike
    www.hendrensracingengines.com

  4. #4
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    VA Hospital, Dallas, Tx (214 302 1924) cell-972-464-7400
    Posts
    540
    Carl,
    We have a little disagreement here in what you recommend and what I am now recommending after me spending quite a lot of tiume doing some oil and filter research.

    Don't disagree about the changes in Mobil 1 though.

    Remember if the oil container does not say racing oil on it don't use it with flat tappet cams.

    I find this to be the opposite now. To me, it is my opinion that about the only thing that is now racing quality about what is labeled as racing oils is the price you pay. All of them have recently and also over time gone downhill. I used to believe and buy into the whole anti-foaming idea and the 100% Pure Pennsylvania crude etc. Now Valvoline, Pensoil, Castor-oil etc have removed the additives we need in performance engines from oils labeled as racing oils.

    It might come back to bite me but I have recently maybe a month ago changed all my guys over to using Fleet Grade oIls of Chevron Dello 400 Multi-grade or the Shell Rotella T HD in the 15-40. NOT THE LE or LOW EMMISIONS CRAP>

    Anything rated less than the 10 it begins with is getting extra solvents added as thinners. All refined oil begins at 10 w and when additives are included goes up to a 15w. .

    Read the piece I wrote on SpeedTalk about this in the General Discussion section. My sources of informatuion came from an Oil Systems anylist whom is not only a chemical engineer but is listed in the Who is who, of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). He also sells his own brand of racing oils, so he benefits none by telling me about the fleet oils.

    Ed
    " Let all things that hath breath, praise the Lord. Praise Ye the Lord" Psalms 150 vs 6.

  5. #5
    Senior Member EXPERT BUILDER
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    NORTHEAST
    Posts
    290
    Quote Originally Posted by edvancedengines
    Carl,
    We have a little disagreement here in what you recommend and what I am now recommending after me spending quite a lot of tiume doing some oil and filter research.

    Don't disagree about the changes in Mobil 1 though.

    Remember if the oil container does not say racing oil on it don't use it with flat tappet cams.

    I find this to be the opposite now. To me, it is my opinion that about the only thing that is now racing quality about what is labeled as racing oils is the price you pay. All of them have recently and also over time gone downhill. I used to believe and buy into the whole anti-foaming idea and the 100% Pure Pennsylvania crude etc. Now Valvoline, Pensoil, Castor-oil etc have removed the additives we need in performance engines from oils labeled as racing oils.

    It might come back to bite me but I have recently maybe a month ago changed all my guys over to using Fleet Grade oIls of Chevron Dello 400 Multi-grade or the Shell Rotella T HD in the 15-40. NOT THE LE or LOW EMMISIONS CRAP>

    Anything rated less than the 10 it begins with is getting extra solvents added as thinners. All refined oil begins at 10 w and when additives are included goes up to a 15w. .

    Read the piece I wrote on SpeedTalk about this in the General Discussion section. My sources of informatuion came from an Oil Systems anylist whom is not only a chemical engineer but is listed in the Who is who, of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). He also sells his own brand of racing oils, so he benefits none by telling me about the fleet oils.

    Ed
    The deisel oils were good until the past years as they now have lowered there standards compared the the oils they were producing years ago.

    I deal with a lot of other shops accross the U.S. and I have heard nothing but good results using the Brad Penn oil which is the old green Kendell oil for breaking in flat tappet.
    WWW.CNCBLOCKSNE.COM
    IS A DIVISION OF
    HINKSON AUTOMOTIVE
    RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

    CARL HINKSON 207-892-7215
    EMAIL CHINKSON@JUNO.COM

  6. #6
    Junior Member SHOW GUEST
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3
    Thanks for all the opinions. I believe that I will try to contact BRAD PENN. As I do more "research" looks as if my best bet is to find an oil that does not meet the "API" ratings. Looks as if BRAD PENN is one and Royal Purple may be another.

  7. #7
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    525
    sixpak if it rotates put in Royal Purple its the only way to go.
    Wesley
    60' 1.30
    5.58 @ 127.89

  8. #8
    Senior Member RACING JUNKIE
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2,044
    I use Rotella T 15w 40, not near as pricey and hard to get as the afore mentioned BRAD PENN, not saying it is better just works for me and I can get it at Walmart, CHEAP.
    Add one can of STP oil treament at break in and you'll have enough zinc and other additives to break in any flat tappet cam.
    Goodluck, Charles
    ***IN GOD WE TRUST***

  9. #9
    Senior Member DYNO OPERATOR
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    558
    What about red line oil? for synthetic oils, Ive used them with good luck .

  10. #10
    Junior Member JOURNEYMAN
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    28
    Also, if it says "Energy Conserving" on the label, it might as well say Cam Killer...


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Email us - Support@RacingJunk.com
Call us - 866.326.9227
Copyright © 2005-2016 RacingJunk.com All Rights Reserved.

Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the RacingJunk.com
Terms of Use, Classifieds Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, and Cookie Policy