fuel pull-over ??1050 dominator
 

My car started stumbling at the line,but would idle fine and went down the track fine.Then it started breaking up down track.Plugs were multicolerd,some lean and some fat.Figuered it was ignition.Tried a different dist.and thought I had it fixed.Then it started stumbling again.Found out that fuel is pouring out of the boosters(primary) like mad.Won't do it at idle,does it when you try to stall up or just driving thru tha pits.Any load at all.When car is in nuetral it doesn't act up(pull-over) until 2500-3000 rpms.Any thoughts?Fuel pressure is fine,13 lbs on the main line,6.5 at the bowls.Everything appears to be clean,inside and out on the carb.Fuel level is right at the bottom of the sight plugs.Everything on the car is the same as it has always been since I put this motor together,about 50 or so passes ago, and have had no problems like this.Carb has a pretty mean tilt to it.Measured at he mounting plate,the rear of the carb is right at 1/2" lower than the front.But it has been this way for the last 10 years,with several motor/carb combos and never given any trouble.I'm at a lost for ideas,and don't want to just slap another carb on it.I want to KNOW what's going on!!Please help!!!I'm running out of hair to pull out!!

P.S. I have changed ONE thing.I used to idle on the front and rear of the carb.Changed the timing awhile back,and when it idled a little higher I adjusted down the rear first and got it where I wanted it.But it put the rear blades all the way closed.Put a vaccum gauge on it and readjusted the idle mixture.Went to the track after doing this twice and it didn't act up.Just thought I'd throw that out there.

Make sure your air bleeds are not stopped up.

If fuel is pouring out of the front, replace the needle & seat, make sure you use a new o-ring on it and lube it before you put it in. Try to balance the idle speed screws, open the back a little and turn down the front and readjust the mixture, but probably not the problem. Adjust the mixture screws out equally till it runs the best, then turn them in in small increments till the idle speed starts to change then back them out about an 1/8 turn.

Messed with it all day and think I got it.I THINK it happened when I lowered/changed the angle the car.If I set the float level at the sight plug it acts up.If I set the level the way I USED TO DO IT,before taking advice from buddies,it runs fine.What I used to do to set the float level is just turn the bowl upside downand set the float a little below level.Everyone told me this was wrong,and that is the only change I have made.Think it will be okay now.Didn't think it was the needle and seat 'cause it never came out the bowl vent or poured out the sight plug hole.

BUT!!!Now I got a new question.By checking the part numbers,I have discovered that the metering plates on my 1050 Dominator are the same plates the are on my 780 cfm 4150 carb.Talked to Holley about it and they said that they were the wrong plates,gave me the part numbers for the correct plates,but couldn't tell me what problems this would cause or why it has(seemingly)run fine thus far.Any opinions on this one??Opine away,please!!

Metering Blocks? What is the model # for your carb? 9375, 8896, 8082, or? An 8082 is a two circuit Dominator and it's possible to have the same casting #'s on the blocks. If you bought it used, it may also be a carb converted to 2-circuit. Dominators have a nasty habit of being rich in the low and midrange, lean up top. This is why a few people have converted them to 2-circuit. I did my 1250 this way and works great. Here is some reading, not for the faint of mind.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9934
http://www.motorsportsvillage.com/fo...pic.php?t=3283
http://www.motorsportsvillage.com/fo...pic.php?t=3742
http://www.motorsportsvillage.com/fo...pic.php?t=3811