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-   -   BBC chevy oil pan (https://www.racingjunk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22771)

camarotale 01-12-2009 12:55 PM

BBC chevy oil pan
 
can someone tell me how important it is to use a windage tray. Is it worth buying another 350.00 oil pan. Running a stroker 496 up to 7500 rpm. On the dyno the oil pressure seemed to fluchate over 6500rpm. Not sure if it is all the oil turbulantes or what. Oil pressure still remained high, but wondering under g force if this will be better or worse and what REALISTIC hp. gains there is with a windage tray? Thanks for some input.

zipper06 01-12-2009 01:55 PM

I think there is a few HP to be gained with a wrap a round 1 way screen type scrapers that bolts to the Main caps. A lot of people make these and they are not too expensive.

JMO

Zip.

TopspeedLowet 01-12-2009 01:55 PM

I weld a scupper to the rear of the pan to contain the oil in the sump and prevent the oil from jumping to the rotating assy. The windage tray needs to be fit to your set up. Any thing that keeps the oil in the pan and isolates the rotating Hurricane from the frothy oil will greatly increase the bearing life in your engine. Airation of your oil in a wet sump is a fact of physics. even a dry sump will pump a small amount of air with your oil. The fluctuations you were seeing may have been your oil pump holding air pressure on your oil galley not just oil. If you like your bearings and plan to rev that big stroke in a confined wet sump pan, a windage tray should be as important as your drain plug. In racing engines with 4.5" stroke or more really need a dry sump set up to reliably maintain oil pressure and deminish airation of the oil. The big builders that sell wet sump big stroke engines sell them with wet sumps for COST ONLY, but advise highly to upgrade to a dry sump. Now for your question. YES you should always have a windage tray in your racing wet sump no matter what. The question should be which one should I use. The fit to your rotating assy must be as close as possible to remove suspended oil and keep the oil below protected from the paddle.
There are lots and lots of pans that claim bolt on fit. I would rather buy a good pan with as deep a sump as your chassis can fit, NOT a shoe box style that dragsters use unless that applies, and get a trim to fit bolt in windage tray that you can fit on the stand to get the best performance from your dollars. I guess I am going on and on, Please use the tray, the better the fit the better the performance and the more power you free up. Sorry I went on so long, but your question deserves to be addressed to the extent that you do the right thing for your 09 racing engine. Best of luck

desoto30 01-13-2009 08:56 AM

Topspeedlowet.What is your reasoning behind your recommending NOT to use a shoebox style oilpan?

TopspeedLowet 01-13-2009 11:02 AM


Originally Posted by desoto30
Topspeedlowet.What is your reasoning behind your recommending NOT to use a shoebox style oilpan?

They are designed to run with the nose up for the oil to be near the pickup. They are a reputable bearing wreckers in door cars that have the engine run level to the earth or any where near level, and run DRY ON DECELERATION, Baffles be damned. They are often misapplied in cars. If you run a accumulator to make up for this problem, you are making the point that I was trying to avoid by using a conventional sump pan that works in a door car. If you run one in a car you are just lucky so far at your performance level. This is the reason why I don't recommend shoe box pans in door cars with level run engines, not Drag boats and Dragsters that they are made for. They are called Dragster pans for a reason. Again I am calling a shoe box pan one that has no sump. If you like them then run it. I'm just sayen.. I hope this helps clarify my previous comment. Sorry I did not elaborate in earlier entry.

kwkracing 01-13-2009 06:29 PM

Yep , i made my own dragster looking pan for my street car, added 2 quarts to the front with baffles, If the oil is at all low, when you hit the brakes real hard the oil pressure goes to zero!!!!! At first i was scared, then i just kept drivin, its done it more times than i can count and still runs and great oil pressure! Lol... Its the Mavel Mystery oil keepn the engine alive

zipper06 01-13-2009 10:02 PM

I've got one of those high dollar pans and titan pump for sale for a genIV blk. it wouldn't fit our door car with a cross member. About 1300.00 worth for 600.00 if you or anyone else is intrested, PM me.

Zip.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...2/100_0672.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...2/100_0669.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...100_0667-1.jpg

desoto30 01-14-2009 12:34 PM


Originally Posted by TopspeedLowet

Originally Posted by desoto30
Topspeedlowet.What is your reasoning behind your recommending NOT to use a shoebox style oilpan?

They are designed to run with the nose up for the oil to be near the pickup. They are a reputable bearing wreckers in door cars that have the engine run level to the earth or any where near level, and run DRY ON DECELERATION, Baffles be damned. They are often misapplied in cars. If you run a accumulator to make up for this problem, you are making the point that I was trying to avoid by using a conventional sump pan that works in a door car. If you run one in a car you are just lucky so far at your performance level. This is the reason why I don't recommend shoe box pans in door cars with level run engines, not Drag boats and Dragsters that they are made for. They are called Dragster pans for a reason. Again I am calling a shoe box pan one that has no sump. If you like them then run it. I'm just sayen.. I hope this helps clarify my previous comment. Sorry I did not elaborate in earlier entry.

suspected that that would probably been your reasoning & we have found oil pressure dips in the altered,IF oil level is at all low.I was just wondering if you had any other reasons.Yea Baffels!whatever

kwkracing 01-14-2009 06:13 PM

you need some help desoto

dparker 01-14-2009 07:38 PM

Would you take a $100.00 for it.


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